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Old 11-28-2012, 11:44 AM   #3016
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:56 AM   #3017
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Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
I used the 1/10 long kingpins on the front and ran the white side springs.
Some guys use the 1/12 kingpins and run .50 fronts.
I liked the feel of the bigger/longer spring.

The dampener tubes were raised 1/2" on the graphite side plates.
Then I mounted them on the top of the upper pod graphite plate.
The rear graphite side plates had to be raised to .65" in order to give enough room to move the side springs over the links. (you can use 5/8 standoffs and a washer).

To sum it up...

When I did this, the car would have alot of chassis roll, but wouldn't diff out or become upset in the turns on a high bite track. I can drive it like a 1/12
i would like to see a pic of the white side spring on the front end
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:03 PM   #3018
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Originally Posted by bigtee View Post
i would like to see a pic of the white side spring on the front end
You can see the rear alterations and front springs


CRC 1/10 Pan Car-dscn9396.jpg
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Old 11-28-2012, 05:32 PM   #3019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
I used the 1/10 long kingpins on the front and ran the white side springs.
Some guys use the 1/12 kingpins and run .50 fronts.
I liked the feel of the bigger/longer spring.

The dampener tubes were raised 1/2" on the graphite side plates.
Then I mounted them on the top of the upper pod graphite plate.
The rear graphite side plates had to be raised to .65" in order to give enough room to move the side springs over the links. (you can use 5/8 standoffs and a washer).

To sum it up...

When I did this, the car would have alot of chassis roll, but wouldn't diff out or become upset in the turns on a high bite track. I can drive it like a 1/12
Dosn't moving the springs out stiffen the effect of the springs = less roll? With the springs outword, there is less leverage between the pod and chassis isn't there?
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:03 PM   #3020
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Originally Posted by bigtee View Post
i would like to see a pic of the white side spring on the front end
That is how the kit comes.
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:39 PM   #3021
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Dosn't moving the springs out stiffen the effect of the springs = less roll? With the springs outword, there is less leverage between the pod and chassis isn't there?
You are correct.
I have them just kissing the side links.
I also dropped my tube lube from 50k (when I ran the springs in the stock position) to 7K in this position.

Try feeling your car as is, then remove 1 tube and feel it, then remove the other tube.

Mine feels like almost no dampening. The springs out that far keeps the car in controll and the tube angle and "softer" lube lets it roll alot.

Maybe the way I worded it made it sound like just by moving the springs made the car roll that much, it was a combination of spring location, major reduction in tube lube, and tube angle.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:22 PM   #3022
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So what are others saying about your setup? have you seen others doing this?
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:22 AM   #3023
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So what are others saying about your setup? have you seen others doing this?
I've seen a few other CRC WGT cars with simular set ups.
For me it fits my driving style and is easier to drive

At my local track everyone has switched to this set up and feels the car is easier to drive and doesn't lift or diff out when the traction is high.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:54 AM   #3024
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Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
I've seen a few other CRC WGT cars with simular set ups.
For me it fits my driving style and is easier to drive

At my local track everyone has switched to this set up and feels the car is easier to drive and doesn't lift or diff out when the traction is high.
It works! The car reacts better through the corners. Wayne killed em at the champs with this setup.
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:00 AM   #3025
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Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
I've seen a few other CRC WGT cars with simular set ups.
For me it fits my driving style and is easier to drive

At my local track everyone has switched to this set up and feels the car is easier to drive and doesn't lift or diff out when the traction is high.
Did you also raise the front arms?
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:01 AM   #3026
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Hello I have a question on gearing. I'm new to the Wgt class & haven't run much on road. I have the crc gen x10 pro with a hobbywing 13.5. We run on a small carpet track 45x35 . What would you suggest on gearing?
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:05 AM   #3027
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Did you also raise the front arms?
The 10* blocks are raised (thickness of the graphite plate used to run the long upper arms).
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:08 AM   #3028
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Hello I have a question on gearing. I'm new to the Wgt class & haven't run much on road. I have the crc gen x10 pro with a hobbywing 13.5. We run on a small carpet track 45x35 . What would you suggest on gearing?
The Hobbywing 13.5 has fixed timing on the endbell if I remember correctly.
I'd guess with a 96 spur around 40 or so to start. Check temps to keep around 130 after the race.

Our club track is 90 x 40 and I run max. timing on a D3.5 with a 44-88 with 2.06" tires.

On tighter layouts I run a 96 spur.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:26 PM   #3029
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Why a 96 spur? Does the pinion change to keep the @3.23 roll out?
I remember somewhere hearing the relationship of the pinion to spur didn't matter if the ratio was the same. ie 44/88 should be the same as a 40/80.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:00 PM   #3030
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Why a 96 spur? Does the pinion change to keep the @3.23 roll out?
I remember somewhere hearing the relationship of the pinion to spur didn't matter if the ratio was the same. ie 44/88 should be the same as a 40/80.
It will change the position of the motor in the pod. From what I understand some like the motor as far forward as possible.
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