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Old 12-13-2011, 07:50 PM   #2476
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Could some post some photos of the new front end,servo flipped, link age positions etc any packing under ball.
I found holes for servos only lined up for a Futaba s9650 ,couldnt fit the KO servo with drilling fresh holes little dissapointed not mulitiple drillings for servo adjustments.
Hi Vinny,

KO PDS-951 ICS ("mini") is the ticket for that make of servos. But, Frank and Dumper use the JR Z3650 (another "mini"). I have fitted both units to my cars using the new front end.

One could potentially use the KO 951 for 2S and the JR Z3650 for 1S. The KO 951 has a tad more torque for the heavier 2S car.

The JR has a more compact case; but, weighs a tad more than the KO (per A-Main's specs).

Plenty to think about.

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Old 12-13-2011, 11:47 PM   #2477
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Heah guys. I'm just starting out in onroad racing been running off road for years. I want to start out in the World GT class and was looking at a few used kits. How is the Gen x10 not the LE? I don't want to invest alot starting out to make sure it's for me. I just want to know your thoughts on this kit. Thank you and look forward to joining the inroad seen.
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:20 AM   #2478
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Heah guys. I'm just starting out in onroad racing been running off road for years. I want to start out in the World GT class and was looking at a few used kits. How is the Gen x10 not the LE? I don't want to invest alot starting out to make sure it's for me. I just want to know your thoughts on this kit. Thank you and look forward to joining the inroad seen.
Find yourself an LE chassis unless you get a killer deal on the GenX and then update to the LE since the conversion is only about $65 bucks.
The LE will bring you current on where the class is right now for 1s lipos. You will also get more setup information for the LE as well. The McKune conversion is really good if you can find one.
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:40 AM   #2479
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Find yourself an LE chassis unless you get a killer deal on the GenX and then update to the LE since the conversion is only about $65 bucks.
The LE will bring you current on where the class is right now for 1s lipos. You will also get more setup information for the LE as well. The McKune conversion is really good if you can find one.
So the LE is the way to go then because for $25 more I can get a new LE. I was going to pay 175$ for the roller with 2 sets of tires and a body. The seller did say it takes 1 cell lipos.
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Old 12-14-2011, 03:02 AM   #2480
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I went from an standard genx10 and converted it to a LE and its loads better. If you can go with the LE to start I would recommend that. Not much else needs doing to the car to get you started.
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Old 12-14-2011, 07:42 AM   #2481
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I started with a GenX and converted it to a LE after a month. I found it made the car handle way better and more responsive.
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Old 12-14-2011, 08:41 AM   #2482
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Default McKune conversion

Bought mine second hand 1 year ago,then bought a new CRC LE version, For me the McKune conversion is a much better car, sold the LE and sticking with the McKune. Its easier to drive and very stable car, maybe not as fast in and out of corners but what you lose in hand you gain in the other.Buy the old car and get McKune conversion.
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:40 AM   #2483
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Anyone know the proper part # for the left aluminum bulkhead that has the longer mount that attaches to the front screw of the pod.
thanks
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:13 AM   #2484
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So the LE is the way to go then because for $25 more I can get a new LE. I was going to pay 175$ for the roller with 2 sets of tires and a body. The seller did say it takes 1 cell lipos.
Well, any of the chassis will "take" a 1s lipo but the LE and the McKune are optimized for 1s. The LE continues to get more updates which will make the car even better to drive. Since you are just starting out, easy to drive is probably more important than being fast. Fast will come in time and the LE is fast in the right hands. 2 birds...
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:34 AM   #2485
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hmm, that is what I am using and I can't seem to get them level, got 2mm spacers under the ball joints on the steering blocks.

What will be the effect of slightly angled arms?

This is how they look at the minute:


yo Chris... i didn't even notice until i looked at your pics and saw that you installed riser plates... TAKE those off and that should solve your problem. (you don't need those)
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:41 AM   #2486
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Anyone know the proper part # for the left aluminum bulkhead that has the longer mount that attaches to the front screw of the pod.
thanks
This one?
http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7718930
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:41 AM   #2487
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So the LE is the way to go then because for $25 more I can get a new LE. I was going to pay 175$ for the roller with 2 sets of tires and a body. The seller did say it takes 1 cell lipos.
get the new car.... when you buy used pan cars you will end up with allot of bent parts! it will cost you more in the long run.

(if not offer the guy $60.00 for his roller.... that's how much my buddy just sold his old gen-10/LE conversion for the other day.... no joke!)
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:13 AM   #2488
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Do all of you run these cars under roar rules . They seemed dog slow to me when using 1s and anything less than a 10.5. We are running 2s with 13.5 just to make them fast enough to be fun. We will be doing an open class soon, so that will help I'm sure. Who thought a 1s was right for this car.
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:15 AM   #2489
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Do all of you run these cars under roar rules . They seemed dog slow to me when using 1s and anything less than a 10.5. We are running 2s with 13.5 just to make them fast enough to be fun. We will be doing an open class soon, so that will help I'm sure. Who thought a 1s was right for this car.
What size track? What surface? These cars are plenty quick with 13.5 1S indoor on carpet.
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:54 AM   #2490
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Default joey

Im using the risers plates on my conversion but put 2mm spacers under the steering arm balls .Links are almost level .
Not ran car yet but looks the biz.

Do you bolt plate straight to chassis ,if you dont use the riser plates are you spacing the plate out for ride height or spacing the steering blocks out for correct ride height.
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