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Old 11-29-2011, 10:27 AM   #2416
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But those are 1/12th bodies ! I was referring to 1/10th Pan Cars.
Oh sorry at least you know 12th now ...lol
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:32 AM   #2417
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mdhyams - 1.5 deg of camber is a lot. try taking it down to .5.

these cars are extremely responsive to camber changes. also if you are running lots of drag brake that could also cause issues.

you need to check you kingpin lengths to make sure they are the same and not bent. also check for bent upper pivot balls. make sure the kingpins slide freely thru the lower pivot balls and that the upper arms do not bind when moving up and down. make sure the side links are free and reset the football.

backspace - protoform sophia for world gt.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:53 AM   #2418
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mdhyams - 1.5 deg of camber is a lot. try taking it down to .5.

these cars are extremely responsive to camber changes. also if you are running lots of drag brake that could also cause issues.

you need to check you kingpin lengths to make sure they are the same and not bent. also check for bent upper pivot balls. make sure the kingpins slide freely thru the lower pivot balls and that the upper arms do not bind when moving up and down. make sure the side links are free and reset the football.

backspace - protoform sophia for world gt.
What about those lemans style ?
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:59 AM   #2419
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I have the reversed and flat servo parts on both of my LE WGTs. With the servo flat, the center of gavity is lowered significantly in the front of the car which lessens its tendency to traction roll on higher grip surfaces allowing me to run more front camber for increased cornering speeds. A total win.

Bill
Increasing corner speed it what i wanted to hear. Think it has something to do with the ackerman change as well?
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:05 AM   #2420
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What about those lemans style ?
not legal for world gt.

if you are not running world gt, then that body has had much more downforce.
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Old 11-29-2011, 11:23 AM   #2421
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I am new to 1/10th pancar and running the WGT class. I having an issue with the car and can not figure it out. When I come around some corners the front and rear want to trade places. Track type is asphalt.

I have glued the front tires, I am running green springs upfront, white center with 35 losi oil, I have shorted the shock length to remove droop, green rear springs, not sure whats in the rear tubes. Running 1 1/2 camber, wgt, sohpia body, ride weight is 4.5 all around.

I have checked the car for tweek, and recut the tires.

Any suggestions.
Look for evidence of a tire rubbing on the body. Make sure your kingpins are not coming loose and rubbing on the inside of the front wheels. (Had this happen to me) Make sure your kingpins slide freely and that both sides are equal length. You probably don't need 1 1/2 degrees of camber either. 1/2 to 1 should be enough. Be sure that the tires are not de-laminating from the rims. You definitely need to have at least 1mm of rear droop, this is very important. Try running red springs on all 4 corners to make the car a little more compliant.
Oh yeah, Make sure your body is not dragging on the ground during cornering. Big problem!
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Old 11-29-2011, 02:21 PM   #2422
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Well I got my new front end parts from CRC. Great customer service from John! Put it together tonight, can't wait to try it out. Updated my blog in the process:

http://rcgtpancars.blogspot.com/
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:06 PM   #2423
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Increasing corner speed it what i wanted to hear. Think it has something to do with the ackerman change as well?
What I was describing can lead to increased corner speed without the fear of traction rolling.

Was saving the best for last...LOL

Bill
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:55 AM   #2424
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hey bill,

which servo saver do you use? I have been advised to run my steering links parallel but I can't fit the enough spacers in, I am using the kimborough medium one I think.

Cheer
Chris
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:40 PM   #2425
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hey bill,

which servo saver do you use? I have been advised to run my steering links parallel but I can't fit the enough spacers in, I am using the kimborough medium one I think.

Cheer
Chris
Kimbrough medium is what we use.
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Old 11-30-2011, 01:14 PM   #2426
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hmm, that is what I am using and I can't seem to get them level, got 2mm spacers under the ball joints on the steering blocks.

What will be the effect of slightly angled arms?

This is how they look at the minute:


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Last edited by chris_blakey; 11-30-2011 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:32 PM   #2427
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on a side note... stop eating your bumper!

(find a belt sander)
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Old 11-30-2011, 02:49 PM   #2428
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Originally Posted by chris_blakey View Post
hmm, that is what I am using and I can't seem to get them level, got 2mm spacers under the ball joints on the steering blocks.

What will be the effect of slightly angled arms?

This is how they look at the minute:



Surely a smaller saver would be the answer like used in 12th???
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Old 11-30-2011, 03:57 PM   #2429
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Hi Chris, I would also suggest putting a regular 12th sized servo saver on your car on you should be fine. Have you got the clearance inside the rims to raise the ballstuds slightly?? The only other thing I can think of is to remove the spacers on the plate that goes across the front of the chassis and then raise each block to get your ride height back. That will lower the servo and raise the ballstuds. That might work ok? Are you going to Ardent on Sunday? I had a crap day last Sunday up there so want to go again this week to have a better time of it! Cheers, Chris.

Oh, and I took a couple of pics of how Griff has his car, and basically copied it! Made up a cross brace using an old turnbuckle (works perfectly!), put the longer arms on the front and a couple of other little tweaks also. Hopefully it will be good!
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Old 11-30-2011, 04:12 PM   #2430
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Hi Chris,

Yeah I had a terrible day on sunday, will be back there this sunday though, will have a play with the ride height and see what I can do.
See you sunday?
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