R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-18-2011, 09:33 PM   #2296
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_blakey View Post
cheers bill will get one ordered. had a good weekends racing, updated my blog with a race report and some pics:

http://rcgtpancars.blogspot.com/
Chris,

Thanks for the blog update. Love those pictures and your commentary.

Fun to see Kevin and his wife in one of the pictures...just like they were at the IIC.

Bill
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 08:44 PM   #2297
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 126
Default

Having trouble building the pro strut front end on pg10 for parts #56 upper a arm, #53 upper arm mount #59 upper cap. Which part is supposed to rotate and which stationary? Is it 1. The pin held stationary by the arm mount + upper cap and the upper A arm rotates on the pin. Or 2. The A arm + pin held stationary against each other (pin felt tight when pushed all the way through) and the pin/A arm assemble rotates inside the arm mount/upper cap?
I found if I leave the upper cap screws loose enough for the A arm to move freely, there is a gap. If I tighten it a little bit more the gap disappears but now the arms cannot fall down on their own. I am not sure where to trim on the mounts as suggested on pg 10 of the manual. There is still a very slight gap for the A arm to move fore and aft so itís not binding in that direction. Unless I make the trough of the arm mount wider or filing it deeper? Thanks for any help on this.
one-nil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2011, 09:10 PM   #2298
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Simply...I usually have to sand both ends of the top caps a small amount with 800 sandpaper to get the fit right. I never get to fully tighten down the 8 small screws that hold the two top caps in place.

For these surfaces, my little white spacers are placed:
asphalt = 2 spacers back/1 forward
carpet = 3 spacers back/0 forward

Bill
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 02:12 AM   #2299
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 126
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Simply...I usually have to sand both ends of the top caps a small amount with 800 sandpaper to get the fit right. I never get to fully tighten down the 8 small screws that hold the two top caps in place.

For these surfaces, my little white spacers are placed:
asphalt = 2 spacers back/1 forward
carpet = 3 spacers back/0 forward

Bill
thanks Bill, will try sanding again, although as I said before there is enough room for the upper A arm to move fore and aft. Also, thanks for the tip on the spacers. Good to know that the kit setting will be for asphalt.
one-nil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 11:31 AM   #2300
Tech Elite
 
joeymdz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oreogan
Posts: 2,975
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to joeymdz
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by one-nil View Post
Having trouble building the pro strut front end on pg10 for parts #56 upper a arm, #53 upper arm mount #59 upper cap. Which part is supposed to rotate and which stationary? Is it 1. The pin held stationary by the arm mount + upper cap and the upper A arm rotates on the pin. Or 2. The A arm + pin held stationary against each other (pin felt tight when pushed all the way through) and the pin/A arm assemble rotates inside the arm mount/upper cap?
I found if I leave the upper cap screws loose enough for the A arm to move freely, there is a gap. If I tighten it a little bit more the gap disappears but now the arms cannot fall down on their own. I am not sure where to trim on the mounts as suggested on pg 10 of the manual. There is still a very slight gap for the A arm to move fore and aft so itís not binding in that direction. Unless I make the trough of the arm mount wider or filing it deeper? Thanks for any help on this.
I'm sorry i forgot the bit size but you can ream out the upper arm slightly so that the arm can move freely. the pin(s) will be held in once the caps are held down by the screws.

i also sanded down my end caps slightly (use caution or you can sand off too much!)

2 back 1 front white washers is a good starting point. if you want more on power out of the corner try 3 back on the white washers.
__________________
RC Plus*McKune Designs*NW Hobbies*Premier RC Raceways*Daves Tracks
joeymdz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 08:26 PM   #2301
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by one-nil View Post
thanks Bill, will try sanding again, although as I said before there is enough room for the upper A arm to move fore and aft. Also, thanks for the tip on the spacers. Good to know that the kit setting will be for asphalt.
What Joey says...going with 2/1 is a good starting point for either surface. I transition to 3/0 when the bite comes up on carpet.

It is amazing how much the movement of one thin white spacer changes the caster angle.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2011, 08:49 PM   #2302
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 126
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
I'm sorry i forgot the bit size but you can ream out the upper arm slightly so that the arm can move freely. the pin(s) will be held in once the caps are held down by the screws.

i also sanded down my end caps slightly (use caution or you can sand off too much!)

2 back 1 front white washers is a good starting point. if you want more on power out of the corner try 3 back on the white washers.

Thanks for confirming to ream the upper A-arms. I went medieval on the caps after Bill's advice. The fit is a little bit better but not floppy loose yet. Now to find a bit that fits...

edit: found a 2mm drill bit and reamed the arms out a little. So nice too see them flop down on their own! This was followed by the discovery of one of the countersink holes not countersunk on the main chassis. Luckily I had a 5mm countersink tool around. Boy these cf plates are hard. The bit died after doing one job!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
What Joey says...going with 2/1 is a good starting point for either surface. I transition to 3/0 when the bite comes up on carpet.

It is amazing how much the movement of one thin white spacer changes the caster angle.
I'll just be running asphalt so may not need to move all three back. Thanks.

Last edited by one-nil; 10-22-2011 at 03:01 AM.
one-nil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2011, 09:12 PM   #2303
Tech Regular
 
Jsaves's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Montana
Posts: 487
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I found on the website GenX 10 le set ups they measure the kingpin. What are the measuring points.
Thanks and God Bless
__________________
Proud member of Magic City RC Racers
Magic City R/C (Facebook)
CRC GT-R
CRC WTF-1
Jsaves is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2011, 11:02 PM   #2304
Tech Champion
 
Still Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 7,016
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jsaves View Post
I found on the website GenX 10 le set ups they measure the kingpin. What are the measuring points.
Thanks and God Bless
From the bottom of the plastic steering block to the bottom of the groove on the pin. I picked the side of the steering block under the axle to be consistent about that location for measuring.
__________________
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
Still Bill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 06:01 AM   #2305
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 31
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default stock steering tie rod size?

Does anyone know the size of the stock steering tie rod turnbuckles (cln 1317) and any recommendations on a good long lasting tie rod tool?

thanks.
Mike
mikev9925 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 07:12 AM   #2306
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: CRC Raceway
Posts: 953
Default

42mm
__________________
www.teamcrc.com, www.teamscreamracing.com, Outlaw RC Motorsports, KO Propo USA, www.crcraceway.com, Dumper's Speedshop, FB/FX Paint. 38.4mm>38mm, 9 degrees does not = Zero end of story. Vice-President of the F1 Pink Flame Posse
dumper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 08:34 AM   #2307
Tech Elite
 
al dente's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: 5280 Raceway. Denver's finest RC facility
Posts: 4,750
Default

misread.

post deleted.
__________________
Team CRC / Dumper's Speed Shop / Team Scream Racing / Black Art
RC America / FB/FX / Colorado On Road RC Club / Manutech
5280 Raceway (5280raceway.com) home of the MILE HIGH INDOOR CHAMPS April 20-23, 2017
al dente is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 08:43 AM   #2308
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 31
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default follow up: tie rod middle squared off area size?

dumper, thanks. In my original post I should have done a better job asking: What is the size of the middle tie rod squared off portion? So I can purchase the correct tie rod tool for adjusting the tie rod

Not sure if it is 3mm or 4mm.

thanks again.
mikev9925 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 09:30 AM   #2309
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 220
Default

Think a they might be 3.5mm but I will check when I get home.
I have and EDIT tool which has two sizes one on each end, again I will check when I get home
__________________
http://rcgtpancars.blogspot.com/
chris_blakey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2011, 09:49 AM   #2310
Tech Elite
 
al dente's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: 5280 Raceway. Denver's finest RC facility
Posts: 4,750
Default

this is the current "team" wrench of choice.
Attached Thumbnails
CRC 1/10 Pan Car-pipe-wrench.jpg  
__________________
Team CRC / Dumper's Speed Shop / Team Scream Racing / Black Art
RC America / FB/FX / Colorado On Road RC Club / Manutech
5280 Raceway (5280raceway.com) home of the MILE HIGH INDOOR CHAMPS April 20-23, 2017
al dente is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:05 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0