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Old 08-24-2011, 10:40 AM   #2191
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Shouldn't you be working?
I'm that good!
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Old 08-24-2011, 10:43 AM   #2192
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I was wondering if any of you have replace this diff spacer with a thrust bearing and got positive result?

Thanks
http://www.slapmastertools.com/thrust-bearings.php part number 120, follow the directions and you will have the best diff you have ever built and it will last longer before it gets gritty.

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Old 08-24-2011, 11:06 AM   #2193
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brodie - the axle for the 10th scale car is longer.

save your money on the speedmerchant conversion and just buy the right car to start with. the gen xl is undeniably the best car on the market.
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:19 PM   #2194
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Thanks fellas for the helpful response on the thrust bearing mod. I just want to make sure it doesn't give negative result. But great to hear it's doable.

I have another question.
I saw these 1s rotor for brushless motors around. Specifically speaking the lrp x12 1s rotor. They are just a magnet armature in the motor.
I was wondering what if I have a "regular" x12 brushless motor and decided to fit a 1s rotor into my "regular" x12, would that make my motor a 1s motor now? Or are 1s rotor have to bemused with 1s motor specific?

Is there any advantage to using 1s motor/rotors?

Thanks again folks.
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:33 PM   #2195
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Originally Posted by xxcysxx View Post
Thanks fellas for the helpful response on the thrust bearing mod. I just want to make sure it doesn't give negative result. But great to hear it's doable.

I have another question.
I saw these 1s rotor for brushless motors around. Specifically speaking the lrp x12 1s rotor. They are just a magnet armature in the motor.
I was wondering what if I have a "regular" x12 brushless motor and decided to fit a 1s rotor into my "regular" x12, would that make my motor a 1s motor now? Or are 1s rotor have to bemused with 1s motor specific?

Is there any advantage to using 1s motor/rotors?

Thanks again folks.
I have been running the 1s rotor in my X12 13.5 Touring Car for last few months.
It lets the motor rev higher and keep motor a bit cooler, it also takes away some of the initial punch which is handy if you run on a lower grip surface.
My Mi4 13.5 is geared at 9.33:1 for a 155ft main straight, it sings and stays around 76c - 86c, a lot cooler than the 95c most others run around.
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:11 PM   #2196
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The 1S rotor is a bit smaller and lighter therefore it will spool up quicker and reach a slightly higher rpm than a standard rotor using a 3.7V battery.

The key is that it spools up faster.
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:47 PM   #2197
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Sounds like it offer higher top end speed at the expense of torque.
And since pan cars are so light, unlike touring cars which are heavier with more part counts, it doesn't need much overhead torque to get up to speed. Yes?

So in theory, one could gear the car higher to get higher top end Speed at the expense of low end punch on regular motors, where as when using a 1s rotor a lower gear ratio must be used to avoid bogging the motor.

Did I get the right idea?
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:48 PM   #2198
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Originally Posted by xxcysxx View Post
Sounds like it offer higher top end speed at the expense of torque.
And since pan cars are so light, unlike touring cars which are heavier with more part counts, it doesn't need much overhead torque to get up to speed. Yes?

So in theory, one could gear the car higher to get higher top end Speed at the expense of low end punch on regular motors, where as when using a 1s rotor a lower gear ratio must be used to avoid bogging the motor.

Did I get the right idea?
Yep. That's the theory.
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:10 PM   #2199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxcysxx View Post
Sounds like it offer higher top end speed at the expense of torque.
And since pan cars are so light, unlike touring cars which are heavier with more part counts, it doesn't need much overhead torque to get up to speed. Yes?

So in theory, one could gear the car higher to get higher top end Speed at the expense of low end punch on regular motors, where as when using a 1s rotor a lower gear ratio must be used to avoid bogging the motor.

Did I get the right idea?
you would need to gear lower to stop it bogging down if you have a lot of grip, but if grip is lower then yes you get more revs and less torque from the same gearing.
I am actually surprised how many Modified Touring drivers use the 1s rotor.
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:33 PM   #2200
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I gave the 1S rotor a couple tries in a 13.5 D3 motor and did not like it at all for WGT.

This rotor may be more applicable to a lighter 1/12th scale car.

IS rotor for sale cheap! LOL

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Old 08-24-2011, 11:46 PM   #2201
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....save your money on the speedmerchant conversion and just buy the right car to start with. the gen xl is undeniably the best car on the market.
Since I won't be getting into 1/12th for a month or two I'll wait and see what the verdict is with the speedmerchant conversion. In-Line looks to be the 'in' thing right now. Associated is jumping on the band wagon I see.

My Hudy truer will be arriving this week and I've been trying to find some info on truing with not much luck. So far I've found these tips; Don't take more than 2mm off per pass, soft foam expands about 1mm when spinning & slower speed for harder foam. Oh and foam CA is a good idea, learned this one the hard way that's one toxic mix of chemicals.

Should I make two passes on one setting or is one adequate?
How long do arbours last?
Is truing camber into the tire only done on 1/8th?
True the front tires to a smaller diameter for more body clearance or front & rear the same diameter?
Any tips would be appreciated.

lots of very helpful people on this thread, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:09 AM   #2202
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First off...Not all innovations pan out...Sorry for the pun.

For Gen-X 10 local racing I start at 56mm on both ends. Others cut to 58mm to get more wear. The fronts wear almost twice as fast as the rears; so, you will end up with smaller fronts in no time.

Basically, I use two sets of fronts for each set of rears.

I threw the original Hudy bit away and used their carbide bit for years. Now have the new CRC truing bit and love it. Think its unusual design came from the oval guys; but, I love it. One pass is doable; but, I like one deep cut followed by a shallow cut.

And I don't use the camber adjustment on my Hudy tire truer.

At least a "safety bead" of CA on the rim/tire before cutting.

You didn't say which model of Hudy you have.

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Old 08-25-2011, 12:28 AM   #2203
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nothing wrong with a good pun

Bought a used Hudy Universal 110V with WGT tire adapter. I am ordering the CRC sanding paddle but holding off on their arbour as RC funds are limited. Starting a club has been a bit expensive, absolutely worth it though.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:47 PM   #2204
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nothing wrong with a good pun

Bought a used Hudy Universal 110V with WGT tire adapter. I am ordering the CRC sanding paddle but holding off on their arbour as RC funds are limited. Starting a club has been a bit expensive, absolutely worth it though.
Same model as mine. To fit the arbour to this Hudy you have to cut away on the longer back side of the unit to get the mm readings correct.

Good luck with the new club.

Bill
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Old 08-26-2011, 01:55 PM   #2205
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I recently picked up a Gen X 10 and absolutely love the car. This is my first 10 scale pan car and it handles like a dream. I also have the Gen X 10 LE conversion kit that I recently picked up but I have not converted it yet. From reading these boards, it should be a simple upgrade. Is there anything else that I "need" to purchase before doing the conversion? I would hate to take the working car apart just to find out I need addtional parts before I could get it working again.

Any hints/tips or web links that could help me convert the car would be appreciated.
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