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Old 08-06-2011, 01:54 AM   #2086
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Try emailing John
john@teamcrc.com

He has been quick to respond to my emails in the past.
Thanks BrodieMan and stillbill,

I'll shoot him an email,cheers.

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Old 08-06-2011, 07:28 AM   #2087
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Should I spend the money on the aluminum standoffs for the tweak plates or stick with the plastic ones?

Carpet only.
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:39 AM   #2088
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Default stand offs

Dont waste your cash, the plastic ones are fine, The alloy ones are more stylish but wont help you to go faster.
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:45 AM   #2089
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Default WGT CLASSES in Uk

we have effectively 3 classes in the Uk but by far the most popular is 1s 10.5 boosted.
1s open modified is a none starter and 2s 17.5 is a very minority class. The 2s 17.5 is a tadge faster than 1s 10.5.
WGT is becoming very popular in the Uk, control tyre and 1s 10.5 becoming the biggest class.All classes are boosted.
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:24 AM   #2090
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
Should I spend the money on the aluminum standoffs for the tweak plates or stick with the plastic ones?

Carpet only.
I take my tweak plates off fairly often; and, did finally strip one of the plastic standoffs. So, I do use the aluminum versions in both 1/2" and 5/8" high.

No noticeable tuning difference between the two standoff sizes. 1/2" ones are lighter. Car is still about 930 grams for the IIC...

Bill
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:59 AM   #2091
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I take my tweak plates off fairly often; and, did finally strip one of the plastic standoffs. So, I do use the aluminum versions in both 1/2" and 5/8" high.

No noticeable tuning difference between the two standoff sizes. 1/2" ones are lighter. Car is still about 930 grams for the IIC...

Bill

Here's one more for you Bill. Both of my cars (bought used) only have one washer between the front end plate and chassis. The manual calls for two. and I don't see anything on any setup sheets that i can find whether I should run one, or two?
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:49 AM   #2092
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Run what works. If you really want to know, put a second washer in there and run, compare times, decide from there.
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:58 PM   #2093
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Are the 1/12th king pins and springs the only parts being swapped out on the LE front end? Keeping the same spring cup?

The manual recommends the mid-size servo saver. Is this what everyone is using instead of the small size?

Thanks!
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:54 PM   #2094
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
Here's one more for you Bill. Both of my cars (bought used) only have one washer between the front end plate and chassis. The manual calls for two. and I don't see anything on any setup sheets that i can find whether I should run one, or two?
The 1-2 #4 washers are for those that run larger front tires. I don't; so, no washers at all for me. If you run big tires, you have those washers as an ride height adjustment.

With no washers, I do always have the 5mm Ride Height Spacers under the lower arms.

Pretty much run between 4-4.5mm ride height for the carpet and asphalt tracks I run at. Nor-Cal Hobbies is as smooth an asphalt track as you will ever find.

Bill
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:59 PM   #2095
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Originally Posted by dzstr View Post
Are the 1/12th king pins and springs the only parts being swapped out on the LE front end? Keeping the same spring cup?

The manual recommends the mid-size servo saver. Is this what everyone is using instead of the small size?

Thanks!
No spring cup needed for the 1/12th scale springs. The regular e-clip that is used to hold the spring cup on the 1/10th scale king pin retains the smaller 1/12th scale spring on the 1/12th scale king pin.

Bill
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Old 08-07-2011, 08:59 AM   #2096
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No spring cup needed for the 1/12th scale springs. The regular e-clip that is used to hold the spring cup on the 1/10th scale king pin retains the smaller 1/12th scale spring on the 1/12th scale king pin.

Bill
Thanks Bill. Glad I asked. I left the cups in.

I found a link on here somewhere to show how to measure the king pin length but can't find it now. Anyone have this?
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:48 AM   #2097
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Thanks Bill. Glad I asked. I left the cups in.

I found a link on here somewhere to show how to measure the king pin length but can't find it now. Anyone have this?
Insert the Dual Steering Axle (I always use the trailing axle position for 1S) into the Steering Block. Screw the king pin into the unit until the there is about 1 thread still showing.

Using calipers, measure .404" (for 1/12 scales king pin) from the bottom of the Steering Block to the bottom of the e-clip groove in the King Pin. Because the bottom of the Steering Block is not even, do this measurement at the same location for both assemblies to be consistent from side to side. I do it on the side of the Steering Block under the axle.

For the 1/10th scale king pins that I use on asphalt, the length measurement was something like .576-.580" to the bottom side of the e-clip. Just be consistent side-to-side in what measurement you use.

Bill
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Old 08-08-2011, 04:51 AM   #2098
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Default long arms shorts arms

I run 2 wgts the new LE and the old version with the Mckune conversion. set up on the mckune is long chassis wide front end and top brace. Im using the short arm and 10 degree caster blocks ,2 washers to rear and 1 in front .Camber is 0.5 mm.
The car goes good and is a very safe drive but just lacks that extra 5% to make it very competitve.
I go in to corners aggressive and tight but coming out car tends to push and understeer.
Looking for a solution, will long arm cure this or should i be looking some where else.
Also running in line axle blocks.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:59 AM   #2099
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I run 2 wgts the new LE and the old version with the Mckune conversion. set up on the mckune is long chassis wide front end and top brace. Im using the short arm and 10 degree caster blocks ,2 washers to rear and 1 in front .Camber is 0.5 mm.
The car goes good and is a very safe drive but just lacks that extra 5% to make it very competitve.
I go in to corners aggressive and tight but coming out car tends to push and understeer.
Looking for a solution, will long arm cure this or should i be looking some where else.
Also running in line axle blocks.
Running the 10 castor blocks will give you more power on understeer.
Try running with the 5 blocks. Bit less turn in but more coming out.
Also try some toe out on the front to get some steering back.
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:44 PM   #2100
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I will be switching my Gen-X 10 LE from 2 cell SCAR 25.5T spec to 1 cell World GT 17.5T spec soon. Just wondering what the best placement is for 1 cell on a high bite, tight carpet track. Also what tire diameter will give approx. 5mm ride height with #3 ride height inserts??? Trying to get the most life out my tires as possible. Thanks guys
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