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Old 03-25-2011, 07:46 PM   #1696
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
jr007

Post your car and track information and we forum members should be able to fend off those nasty Xrays.

Bill...From the ROAR Nationals track at Timezone II
This is the last set-up I had that handled "ok". THe problem i'm having, is it's so damned hard to find any sweet-spot for handling, it's either to tail-happy, too much turn-in, hooking on low speed turns, understeering out of the turn, every time I tweak it just shifts a problem elsewhere.
I'd really love a driveable car that wasn't fast. I can handle losing speed through turns, I can't handle spinning out!

FRONT
Exceed WGT purples (about 35 shore I think, also have reds)
Green springs (tried red)
Zero droop
Caster, 1 shim forward
5 active caster (trying 10 soon)
1 camber
0 toe
trailing steering (tried in-line)

REAR
Frewer Silver (abour 25 shore)
Red side springs, 1/2 turn past touching (going to try white)
30wt centre shock, Tamiya orange spring (very soft, going to try black)
1.5mm droop
8,000 wt in damper tubes (now mounted damper off old CRC 12th)
Long side links

6mm ride height all round (tryong 7mm front 6mm rear)

1125 grams race ready (NZRCA limit is 1115)

Tekin RS Pro
Epic D3 13.5
Not running turbo

Mulsanne body. Apparently doesn't do well for handling, have a Sophia but they look a bit ghey!
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:48 PM   #1697
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Also:
Very large outdoor asphalt (50m+ straight)
Flowing track wit hlarge sweepers (Nitro international spec)
no traction compound allowed
Track can be dusty, but clears off after the first heat or two
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Old 03-27-2011, 09:14 AM   #1698
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could you explain what the car does going in the corner....middle of the corner and going out of the corners?

IMO 25 shore is too soft and you loose all balance in the car to get any sort of steering back in. I don't know but i can imagine the tire is even rolling under itself cause of the softness. A body doesn't do that much in a slow corner so going to a sophia doesn't cure that problem. IMO first look for a balanced setup for the slow corners. Once you get the car set up for the slow corners i would go to find the solutions for the fast sweepers.

I helped westy1969 on here with his crc genx10 last friday evening. Our class 2s lipo and 10.5t open esc. Our clubraces are in the evening so traction is very low. Together with a very large sweeper (wich you can take full throttle) the straight is over 330 feet (over 100 meters). After the straigth there is a very tight 180degree turn wich you need to break for otherwise your into a fence .

During the evening there is some condensation going on making the traction very bad at the begining of the season. He didn't use traction compound cause it was just a try out but after some directions (correcting his TC driving skills ) and a little tweaking on his chassis setup he could drive the car quite ballanced around the track. There was some spinning out of the slower sections but it was predictable so he could catch it and countersteer without having to go too slow in the slower corners.

After 2 times hitting the track with some setup changes the car went quite well, considering that even the TC's had traction problems and he wasn't using any traction compound.
As this was the first time he really had a chance to drive the car, there is still a huge amount of margin to get the car even better.

I don't remember the setup by heart but westy could shim in on his setup.

edit:
car standard 200mm wide don't know exactly what width the front and back is

FRONT
purple front tires, no traction compound(jaco or similar)
Purple springs

BACK
Pink backtires, no traction compound (jaco or similar)
Tamiya shock
35wt (don't remember the brand)
red tamiya spring
green side springs i think (he had white first)
corally hard spooch (no idea what cst that is)
we changed the poddroop considerable so it had less poddroop then it had first... don't know how much it is now
ride height 6mm all round i think

Last edited by 2wdrive; 03-27-2011 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:16 AM   #1699
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That's fantastic thanks. You are using considerably harder front and rear springs than me for a start, so I think i'll do that for sure.
You may well be right about the tires too. I have Jaco pinks and purples, so will go back to them. I think you are right about the silvers. A friend told me than with his F1 (not the same, but still a pan) that the less traction there was, the HARDER he made his tires. Counter-intuitive, but he's fast so must know something!
Any idea on caster?
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Old 03-27-2011, 11:28 AM   #1700
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will give him a notice and let himgive his setup... i really don't remember it lol. Also the wheelbase and trackwidth i have no clue as i didn't pay attention on that part yet.... The few setup changes already showed a lot of prommises and tracktime ended before we could try something else.

The center shock is quite soft so he still has to put a nitro hose on the shaft to not let the chassis bottom out on the asphalt on the straight duee to downforce
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:32 PM   #1701
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That almost spot on.

I use medium corrally oil for the tubbes.
Have about 1-2 mm pod-drop
The front end is by the book, basic setup.
Center shock 1 postion more to the front than stock, this to reduce the pod drop. There for i had to lengthen the ball joint at the end of the shock a bit.
35 wt corrally oil
1 degree camber at the front.

That about it, if i have forgotten something let me know.

Gtz

ps next time ill leave the trigger happy finger at home
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:37 PM   #1702
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wow my memmory is better then i thought hehe. Make the front in the widest track width position next time. That will give you a more stable car. You loose a little steering but you can get that back through a setup change. It will give you a more allround stable car.
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Old 03-27-2011, 01:43 PM   #1703
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Its spooky.

I will look at it this week, the fueltube is in place but im not sure if its in right size but that can wait till friday.
Maybe if i can find time i'll paint the mulsanne body, so roy won't be scared if i open the throtle at the straight.
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Old 03-27-2011, 02:02 PM   #1704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westy1969 View Post
Its spooky.

I will look at it this week, the fueltube is in place but im not sure if its in right size but that can wait till friday.
Maybe if i can find time i'll paint the mulsanne body, so roy won't be scared if i open the throtle at the straight.
his reaction was indeed funny.... .

Last time he also said he was right behind the nitro cars .......well soon we will be in front of them
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:13 PM   #1705
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can anyone tell me if i upgrade CLN3340 Low Profile Motor Pod. do i need to upgrade another side of the motor pod?
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:46 PM   #1706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littlealex View Post
can anyone tell me if i upgrade CLN3340 Low Profile Motor Pod. do i need to upgrade another side of the motor pod?
That is the right side motor plate for the XL and Gen-X 10 cars which can also be used on the left side of the pod to stiffen the chassis.

And do go to the CRC website to see the new #1763 full box top plate for the rear pod that will tie everything together. It should be available from CRC later this week.

Bill
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:06 PM   #1707
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Can the HUDY 1/10 1/12 set up solution be used with this car or is the front axel size a problem ??
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:00 AM   #1708
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I think you use your wheel bearings too, so it doesn't matter as the holder is the same as any 1/10 pan wheel. My friend has a Hudy one i've used for my car
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Old 03-29-2011, 02:29 AM   #1709
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Thanks
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Old 03-29-2011, 03:57 AM   #1710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR007 View Post

FRONT
Exceed WGT purples (about 35 shore I think, also have reds)
Green springs (tried red)
Zero droop
Caster, 1 shim forward
5 active caster (trying 10 soon)
1 camber
0 toe
trailing steering (tried in-line)

REAR
Frewer Silver (abour 25 shore)
Red side springs, 1/2 turn past touching (going to try white)
30wt centre shock, Tamiya orange spring (very soft, going to try black)
1.5mm droop
8,000 wt in damper tubes (now mounted damper off old CRC 12th)
Long side links

6mm ride height all round (tryong 7mm front 6mm rear)
VERY thanks for your setup. Any tutorial to learn how can i setup: caster, camber, etc...


Thank you in advance,
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