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Old 03-09-2011, 08:09 AM   #1666
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CRC's 1/12th scale springs follow the .45, .50, .55., .60 you describe. They are not color-coded.

CRC's larger 1/10th scale springs are conical shaped and color-coded.

Please note that for carpet racing, I use 1/12th scale kingpins and springs on the front end of my Gen-X 10 LE. They react quicker than the 1/10th scale parts. Perfect for carpet. Because NorCal's outdoor asphalt track is so smooth I plan to test using the 1/12th scale spring setup for that too.

Bill
doh! it didn't occur to me they used the same spring at the front end and side link. just needed to RTFM

thanks for the help..
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:28 AM   #1667
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Raising the FRONT of the links gives rear steer (see Tom Firsching's setup). I raised the rear of the links. It was something I tried in my testing leading up to the race. To be honest I was trying to acheive something, and it did not do what I was hoping to do, but I did find that it tightened the car up and kept it very flat. It has an interesting feel to it. I took it off in Vegas only to find that I liked my car better with it raised. I do not feel that it is for everyone in all situations, just another thing to try. I also had this setup on when I won the TimeZone Gran Prix a month later.

dumper
sorry if this has been answered already but i couldn't find it.
when you raise the rear links what happens to the center pivot? seems like there are 3 options:

1 raise the pivot on the chassis, keeping the chassis and lower plate level
2 raise just the center pivot ball which lowered the pod relative to the chassis
3 left the center unchanged

seems like if the center is left unchanged then the links will cause binding because the 3 pivot balls on the lower plate are not in a straight line.
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:05 PM   #1668
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doh! it didn't occur to me they used the same spring at the front end and side link. just needed to RTFM

thanks for the help..
I can relate! LOL

Bill
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:09 PM   #1669
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Im new to the class and have the Troy Mckune conversion chassis. Im racing 1s lipo with 10.5 , car is brilliant .No sign of lifting wheels ,it is so easy to drive its scary. Ive never raced in anger yet against other WGT but have ran with 1/12ths and its not far off the pace.
My own time is approx 0.40 of a second a lap slower.Dont know if thats good or bad.Will be racing it in anger on the 3rd of April so will have a better idea then.
Is your racing on carpet? If so, try using CRC 1/12th scale kingpins and springs on the front end. Amazing improvement!
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:23 AM   #1670
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Looks like we're going to keep our WGTs on carpet. Any hints for a boosted 1S 13.5 on a 92x37 semi technical track? What roll out should I be targeting? F/R tire diameter? Tekin settings?
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:34 AM   #1671
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Looks like we're going to keep our WGTs on carpet. Any hints for a boosted 1S 13.5 on a 92x37 semi technical track? What roll out should I be targeting? F/R tire diameter?
I run on a 90 x 40 track.
I start with 2.08" tires, no glue.
2.5" rollout
approx. 15* motor timing on a D3
25-30 boost
5-10 turbo
.2-.4 delay
2000ish start
4000ish stop
3.0 ramp

All I look is at motor temp.
I never change gearing, just adjust esc settings

Hope this helps
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:29 AM   #1672
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I have recently acquired a Gen X10 with a mckune chassis (pre tape slots) and was curious to know what guys are doing for battery pack stops. I had thought about drilling a hole and using a screw and a nylon nut.
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:49 AM   #1673
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I have recently acquired a Gen X10 with a mckune chassis (pre tape slots) and was curious to know what guys are doing for battery pack stops. I had thought about drilling a hole and using a screw and a nylon nut.
just use tape and side battery retention bars to hold it in place... it will not move
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:57 AM   #1674
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Originally Posted by Buckaroo View Post
Looks like we're going to keep our WGTs on carpet. Any hints for a boosted 1S 13.5 on a 92x37 semi technical track? What roll out should I be targeting? F/R tire diameter? Tekin settings?
this is Brian Bodines set up from last week and his car was a beast...

RPM: 2450/7000
Boost: 50
Turbo: 10
Ramp: 2
Delay: .1
TP: 4
D3, zero mark or 30*,

he didnt list his tire size but its probably around the 52.5-52mmm size

roll out will work different for each person in my personal opinion.. yes it can give you a general idea where to start but driving styles is the factor

PS~ MY 1000 POST CHERRY GOT POPPED!!!
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:28 PM   #1675
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just use tape and side battery retention bars to hold it in place... it will not move
My chassis has no tape slots, my battery is secured with a large o ring that hooks across the top via tabs on the side rails, I can use a smakl piece of servo tape to further secure it but I wouls like the option of running more than one battery
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Old 03-17-2011, 12:52 PM   #1676
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more than 1 battery or more than 1 battery position?

you can still use tape on the retention side bars or the rubberband. if you want different battery positions...umm... drill it! lol
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:04 PM   #1677
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more than 1 battery or more than 1 battery position?

you can still use tape on the retention side bars or the rubberband. if you want different battery positions...umm... drill it! lol
Both actually, problem now is the battery slide forward it will hit the back of my servo, if it slides back it will hit my esc. As I said before I dont have any tape slots, it musy be an older 1s plate.
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Old 03-17-2011, 01:43 PM   #1678
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Both actually, problem now is the battery slide forward it will hit the back of my servo, if it slides back it will hit my esc. As I said before I donít have any tape slots, it musy be an older 1s plate.
both versions can use tape (I have both chassis). also sounds like you didnít adjust the side bars to make a "snug" fit:

loosen the 4x4-40 red locknuts so that the side bars have a little bit of tension on them. once you insert the battery tighten the 4x4-40 locknuts down and that will secure the battery from any side to side and back and fourth play. the rubber band will keep it from "popping" out from the top side. (you can also use battery tape on the sides of the retention bars as per the instructions)

I donít have an issue of the battery hitting the servo cause I have it mounted all the way forward (all the pro guys in this area run them forward.. so monkey see monkey doo!)


and if you're still lost here is the link to the instruction sheet

http://www.mckunedesign.com/Assets/1s_Lipo_Chassis.pdf
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:45 PM   #1679
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Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
both versions can use tape (I have both chassis). also sounds like you didnít adjust the side bars to make a "snug" fit:

loosen the 4x4-40 red locknuts so that the side bars have a little bit of tension on them. once you insert the battery tighten the 4x4-40 locknuts down and that will secure the battery from any side to side and back and fourth play. the rubber band will keep it from "popping" out from the top side. (you can also use battery tape on the sides of the retention bars as per the instructions)

I donít have an issue of the battery hitting the servo cause I have it mounted all the way forward (all the pro guys in this area run them forward.. so monkey see monkey doo!)


and if you're still lost here is the link to the instruction sheet

http://www.mckunedesign.com/Assets/1s_Lipo_Chassis.pdf

Hey man, I have it in there tight but I don't have tape slots. I remedied the battery sliding back with a 7g piece of lead behind the battery, it's tight now. Thanks
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:24 AM   #1680
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Hey man, I have it in there tight but I don't have tape slots. I remedied the battery sliding back with a 7g piece of lead behind the battery, it's tight now. Thanks
LOL... i thought i explained it well... so 1 more try for this beat horse and then i will give up on you!

LOOK AT THE PDF instruction link. you will see "SLOTS FOR BATTERY STRAPPING TAPE" (NOT ON the chasis ONLY on the battery retention bars)

**even though the new ones are made to use a oring to hold the battery on place.. theres still room to use battery tape to secure it down

im done
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