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Old 03-05-2011, 07:59 AM   #1636
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Originally Posted by ozzy-crawl View Post
well i have my new gen-x le built and ready to go,if it stops raining
got a couple newb questions.
the side springs can be adjusted up and down,how are these generally set tension wise,do you wind them down till they just touch or are they adjusted with more tension ?

ball diff setup

i haven't touched a ball diff in about 6 years,when holding both tyres and then trying to turn the spur with your thumb,how hard do you try and turn it ?
that may sound strange but what is hard for one person may not be for another,or should it have pressure but still be turnable

thanks for any advice
Regarding the side springs, I am by no means an expert, but to begin with- I've learned that they should be approximately 1/16" off the pod, in other words they should not touch. You can turn them more and have them touch (preload) based on your traction conditions.

As far as the diff goes, once tightened down, it should be VERY difficult to turn while holding the wheels- but not impossible.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-05-2011, 01:32 PM   #1637
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Originally Posted by ozzy-crawl View Post
well i have my new gen-x le built and ready to go,if it stops raining
got a couple newb questions.
the side springs can be adjusted up and down,how are these generally set tension wise,do you wind them down till they just touch or are they adjusted with more tension ?

ball diff setup

i haven't touched a ball diff in about 6 years,when holding both tyres and then trying to turn the spur with your thumb,how hard do you try and turn it ?
that may sound strange but what is hard for one person may not be for another,or should it have pressure but still be turnable

thanks for any advice

Side Springs: Generally you want them just touching the pod so the car will self-center (In related to the rear pod), otherwise your car will be tweaked when going in a straight line. I prefer a alittle pre-load on them (1/4 turn once touching).

As for the ball diff. A properly worked in ball diff, you should not under ANY circumstances be able to slip the spur gear, but the differental action (from wheel to wheel) should be butter smooth. If you are not sure if your diff is smooth or not, then check out some of the faster guys cars. A properly working diff is super important in pan cars. If you need instructions for working in a diff, check out the link below.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...article&sid=36

Shawn
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Old 03-06-2011, 05:42 AM   #1638
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thanks guys that really helped

got my first run today,had a faulty steering servo issue but other wise it ran very nice.
now i just need to up the gearing,any suggestions ?
currently at 42mm roll out with a novak gtb/13.5t on 2s
track is large out door 1/8 scale.
ran today with the 42mm roll out and after around 15 minutes of run time
motor and esc were barley warm
was thinking around 51-53mm roll out
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:28 AM   #1639
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Originally Posted by ozzy-crawl View Post
thanks guys that really helped

got my first run today,had a faulty steering servo issue but other wise it ran very nice.
now i just need to up the gearing,any suggestions ?
currently at 42mm roll out with a novak gtb/13.5t on 2s
track is large out door 1/8 scale.
ran today with the 42mm roll out and after around 15 minutes of run time
motor and esc were barley warm
was thinking around 51-53mm roll out
Are you limited to only using a GTB ESC?

I would not make such big jumps in gearing to get to the sweet spot. Take your time in finding the right gearing for your track. It should only take a few more test runs to get there. Enjoy the ride!

Bill
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Old 03-06-2011, 11:26 AM   #1640
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I FINALLY got my Gen-X sorted and handling damn near perfect. There was so much dust on the track I was making mini tornado's behind the car going down the dtraight, and it still handled well.
The single biggest change I made was having a super-soft tamiya centre spring. I was jsut comparing my car to my mates X-10 and the spring was wayyyy softer, so I figured I had nothing to lose.
Anyway, there were other tweaks, but my car is now a weapon on unprepped asphalt
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Old 03-06-2011, 12:18 PM   #1641
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I FINALLY got my Gen-X sorted and handling damn near perfect. There was so much dust on the track I was making mini tornado's behind the car going down the dtraight, and it still handled well.
The single biggest change I made was having a super-soft tamiya centre spring. I was jsut comparing my car to my mates X-10 and the spring was wayyyy softer, so I figured I had nothing to lose.
Anyway, there were other tweaks, but my car is now a weapon on unprepped asphalt
I found the same thing on my car last year, went from the box stock 30Lb spring, and dropped it to a 12.5Lb spring. Made all the difference in the world.

Should be interesting this year though, looks like the club is switching to WGT rules. That will have a change of the setup for sure.


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Old 03-06-2011, 01:27 PM   #1642
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WGT rules, bummer. I had something else I cam across too. Even if I tightened the king-pin shaft all the way in, there was still some droop, which I didn't want. It was almost 1mm. Not sure if anyone else has come across this?
I ended up putting a 1mm o-ring between the upper arm and steering arm to remove the clearance. Kind of a hack-job, but works mint
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Last edited by JR007; 03-06-2011 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 03-06-2011, 01:55 PM   #1643
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WGT rules, bummer. I had something else I cam across too. Even if I tightened the king-pin shaft all the way in, there was still some droop, which I didn't want. It was almost 1mm. Not sure if anyone else has come across this?
I ended up putting a slamm o-ring between the upper arm and steering arm to remove the clearance. Kind of a hack-job, but works mint

On my 1/12 I have some droop, so I added a small washer to the bottom of the king pin, just above the e-clip.
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:34 PM   #1644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
WGT rules, bummer. I had something else I cam across too. Even if I tightened the king-pin shaft all the way in, there was still some droop, which I didn't want. It was almost 1mm. Not sure if anyone else has come across this?
I ended up putting a 1mm o-ring between the upper arm and steering arm to remove the clearance. Kind of a hack-job, but works mint
The droop probably results from the extra weight of the 2S battery.

I assume that you are using the 1/10th scale king pins. So, which springs are you running up front? I ran reds with no droop.

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Old 03-06-2011, 10:40 PM   #1645
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Are you limited to only using a GTB ESC?

I would not make such big jumps in gearing to get to the sweet spot. Take your time in finding the right gearing for your track. It should only take a few more test runs to get there. Enjoy the ride!

Bill
i have to order every thing from over seas,and cant spend to much each time
but will slowly build up more pinions for fine tuning.
tried a diffrent motor/esc today,its a sensorless system,not as smooth as the novak but not to bad.
motor is 4000kv compared to the novaks 3300kv
was much better,lot more punch and top speed is around 50mph
plus esc has much more programming options than the gtb
these cars are so much fun to drive
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:10 PM   #1646
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OK, picked up a very nice used 10 pro, but the center shock needs some TLC. Either the shock body is dented, the piston is afu, or the shock shaft is bent. The full version (NOT LE) uses a different shock, and the manual says something about following the instrucion in Bag 7. Same thing in the manual for the Battle Axe, no joy.

Anyone got a copy of that instruction sheet and a parts list?
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:24 PM   #1647
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I am going to disturb you all with questions regarding the battery again I was told that the manual of the gen-x 10 contains the dimensions of lipo that fit... What are the dimensions? Thanks!



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Old 03-07-2011, 03:05 PM   #1648
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OK, picked up a very nice used 10 pro, but the center shock needs some TLC. Either the shock body is dented, the piston is afu, or the shock shaft is bent. The full version (NOT LE) uses a different shock, and the manual says something about following the instrucion in Bag 7. Same thing in the manual for the Battle Axe, no joy.

Anyone got a copy of that instruction sheet and a parts list?

I dont know what CRC calls them, but its a Losi JRXS-R Shock.

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...cks/Categories


They have all the bits and pieces.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:22 PM   #1649
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Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
I dont know what CRC calls them, but its a Losi JRXS-R Shock.

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...cks/Categories


They have all the bits and pieces.
ROCK ON! Thanks for the link!

Any advice on what oil to start with in the original and the LE upgrade shock?

Also, anyone have a good set up for a large open outdoor asphalt track 1S 13.5?
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Last edited by Buckaroo; 03-07-2011 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:38 PM   #1650
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ROCK ON! Thanks for the link!

Any advice on what oil to start with in the original and the LE upgrade shock?
30WT is the norm. Lighter if you move to a lighter spring.
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