"Tamiya Class" racing...Help me choose - TA05 vs TA05R
01-27-2008, 12:43 PM
#46
I just wanted to add that the IFS cars do not come with the true light-weight reversible suspension. While it appears to be the same in every way, it is in fact a cheaper "Glass" filled version instead of the super stiff/strong/light/expensive "carbon-fiber" version...
01-27-2008, 02:11 PM
#47
Paulie....I don't want to sound crazy, but if you believe upgrading the stock TA05 pertaining to "YOUR" specification is cheaper and better then using the stock TA05R........then I can GARANTEE you that you will spend a lot more money AFTER upgrading your TA05 to the $190 mark then you will keep adding option and parts..I myself is NOT the only 05R owner, I bought (3) R version the day it came out from RC Champ and I don't own TAMIYA before. I got the R because it is one of those "CRAZY NOT TO BUY" if you want the TA05 version kinda car.
You mentioned the LW is NOT STRONG.........ah...HOW? I have my R and I stock all the necessary parts for all of my car, like arms and knuckles and belts...I have 2 packs of new LW arms F and R for almost 1 year now, both package are COLLECTING DUST since. I ran my 05R with 3.5 OUTDOOR with 1/8th cars and get PUNCH OUT to the track mulitple times...the R broke NOTHING on those cases. I broke only 1 parts more then 1 time...the steering knuckles...thats all, very common for TC and I dont' expect my $200 toy car will be any exception. Then...my belt, after 3.5, 13.5, stock 27T, on rubber outdoor, indoor, foam indoor carpet....I better expect my belt get loose and need to change...
Really...thats all I have broke. Almost 1 year of using, and I don't BABY my RC car, I beat the crap out of it. And thats why I want the TA05R cause it use TUB...not those facny carbon chassis like the MS version.
Those steering option thingy that you have mention........please, one word, BLING...useless. OK...not useless..just BLING.
You want to race TCS without the TRF shocks...? Dream on.....
You don't need fancy shock towers...not even the R one. Shock tower is shock tower, do nothing except looks better UNLESS it does give you more shock position THAT you are going to use.
Static build up....ah, I think, that happened to me 1 time when I was racing outdoor with like 12-13 cars running outside without radio freq. control....car went stop, then slowly drive straight and stop again. Turn off radio speedo, turn it back on....never a problem since. And if you think the tub does build up static...I ran CARPET most of the time. CARPET build up 100TIMES more static then the tub. But our R has never gave us any glitching problem...again, almost 1 year of running, not a problem like TAMIYA mentioned. They said carbon tub will work...for me, if there are no problem, why fix...
Beside, check the TA05 thread, someone install a wire and GROUND the chassis, problem solved...1 wire = 5 cents?
I don't know HOW you can tell TA05R is stiffer then TA05....by how much? Tub car...suppose to be stiff, and you are NOT going to tell the diff no matter HOW you do it...it is a LOW END TC car...don't compare that to XRAY.
Yes...you should stock a set of STOCK TA05 arms for outdoor use, like Team Driver use the stock arm for their 416. Like what...$20?
My cost so far for the R...less then $300 including the Mobile SC430. $50 of parts are spare that I am still NOT using...from almost a year ago. The R is a tank, and it is probably the BEST INVESTMENT ever in my 24 years of RC. Llike I have mentioned, that TRF $50 shocks is the TOP NOTCH ITEM of all the RC brand that I have ever build. I willl invest the shocks WAY before the 1-way....
We raced the R with the 13.5 PRO motor, alot faster then the 23T, so the R can defintiely handle the speed and torque. Also, our R (G12367 and myself and the other guy here in Rctech) can use the R to race against top cars like Mi3, TC5, 007 008 Phi....however, I said, we can HANG with them, not beating them. Just to tell you HOW GOOD is the R. Not to mention, rubber, foams, indoor, outdoor....without changing chassis, upper deck, shocks, or even arms...just setting and diff/1-way/spool...and OFF and GO. I am going to race the R on upcoming TCS @ Trackside (2 weeks)...my car, right now, is capable to run on GT2 AND GT1...I care the less it is a tub car, but lap time don't lie...it is capable to run against 415 416 or MS chassis.....
Tub chassis does not protect your electronic a lot more then carbon fiber chassis. You choose tub chassis because you don't want to buy the $$$ carbon fiber chassis, right..? I choose to buy R because it is cheap, because I want it to be cheap, so I can even run OFF ROAD if I want to....I use the Mi3 for the more serious races. R is definitely for all my TCS RACE...and the most important reason...I can race her in GT1 to GT3 class, no problem...but you CANNOT use the 414 or 416 on GT2 and GT3...
My last advise....buy the R and run it. Then upgrade the 1-way (already proved it is a good option for low-turn motor use) body (try SC430, not the lay down front shock bling bling version) Type A tires, Stock TA05 arm set. If you have extra cash, get the rear aluminum upright (prefer -1 degree) I think those are the EVO 4 option and THATS IT
....you are planning this like your career, or getting marry, or buying a $1 million house...please. You even plan about the STATIC problem when I am still looking forward to experince myself...
P.S......Tamiya re release the HOTSHOT almost 20 years later, I don't think TA05R has been released 20 years already....it still selling over JAPAN. US does not has it does not mean they are discontinued. Check out Tamiya USA.
You mentioned the LW is NOT STRONG.........ah...HOW? I have my R and I stock all the necessary parts for all of my car, like arms and knuckles and belts...I have 2 packs of new LW arms F and R for almost 1 year now, both package are COLLECTING DUST since. I ran my 05R with 3.5 OUTDOOR with 1/8th cars and get PUNCH OUT to the track mulitple times...the R broke NOTHING on those cases. I broke only 1 parts more then 1 time...the steering knuckles...thats all, very common for TC and I dont' expect my $200 toy car will be any exception. Then...my belt, after 3.5, 13.5, stock 27T, on rubber outdoor, indoor, foam indoor carpet....I better expect my belt get loose and need to change...
Really...thats all I have broke. Almost 1 year of using, and I don't BABY my RC car, I beat the crap out of it. And thats why I want the TA05R cause it use TUB...not those facny carbon chassis like the MS version.
Those steering option thingy that you have mention........please, one word, BLING...useless. OK...not useless..just BLING.
You want to race TCS without the TRF shocks...? Dream on.....
You don't need fancy shock towers...not even the R one. Shock tower is shock tower, do nothing except looks better UNLESS it does give you more shock position THAT you are going to use.
Static build up....ah, I think, that happened to me 1 time when I was racing outdoor with like 12-13 cars running outside without radio freq. control....car went stop, then slowly drive straight and stop again. Turn off radio speedo, turn it back on....never a problem since. And if you think the tub does build up static...I ran CARPET most of the time. CARPET build up 100TIMES more static then the tub. But our R has never gave us any glitching problem...again, almost 1 year of running, not a problem like TAMIYA mentioned. They said carbon tub will work...for me, if there are no problem, why fix...
Beside, check the TA05 thread, someone install a wire and GROUND the chassis, problem solved...1 wire = 5 cents?
I don't know HOW you can tell TA05R is stiffer then TA05....by how much? Tub car...suppose to be stiff, and you are NOT going to tell the diff no matter HOW you do it...it is a LOW END TC car...don't compare that to XRAY.
Yes...you should stock a set of STOCK TA05 arms for outdoor use, like Team Driver use the stock arm for their 416. Like what...$20?
My cost so far for the R...less then $300 including the Mobile SC430. $50 of parts are spare that I am still NOT using...from almost a year ago. The R is a tank, and it is probably the BEST INVESTMENT ever in my 24 years of RC. Llike I have mentioned, that TRF $50 shocks is the TOP NOTCH ITEM of all the RC brand that I have ever build. I willl invest the shocks WAY before the 1-way....
We raced the R with the 13.5 PRO motor, alot faster then the 23T, so the R can defintiely handle the speed and torque. Also, our R (G12367 and myself and the other guy here in Rctech) can use the R to race against top cars like Mi3, TC5, 007 008 Phi....however, I said, we can HANG with them, not beating them. Just to tell you HOW GOOD is the R. Not to mention, rubber, foams, indoor, outdoor....without changing chassis, upper deck, shocks, or even arms...just setting and diff/1-way/spool...and OFF and GO. I am going to race the R on upcoming TCS @ Trackside (2 weeks)...my car, right now, is capable to run on GT2 AND GT1...I care the less it is a tub car, but lap time don't lie...it is capable to run against 415 416 or MS chassis.....
Tub chassis does not protect your electronic a lot more then carbon fiber chassis. You choose tub chassis because you don't want to buy the $$$ carbon fiber chassis, right..? I choose to buy R because it is cheap, because I want it to be cheap, so I can even run OFF ROAD if I want to....I use the Mi3 for the more serious races. R is definitely for all my TCS RACE...and the most important reason...I can race her in GT1 to GT3 class, no problem...but you CANNOT use the 414 or 416 on GT2 and GT3...
My last advise....buy the R and run it. Then upgrade the 1-way (already proved it is a good option for low-turn motor use) body (try SC430, not the lay down front shock bling bling version) Type A tires, Stock TA05 arm set. If you have extra cash, get the rear aluminum upright (prefer -1 degree) I think those are the EVO 4 option and THATS IT
....you are planning this like your career, or getting marry, or buying a $1 million house...please. You even plan about the STATIC problem when I am still looking forward to experince myself...
P.S......Tamiya re release the HOTSHOT almost 20 years later, I don't think TA05R has been released 20 years already....it still selling over JAPAN. US does not has it does not mean they are discontinued. Check out Tamiya USA.
I really appreciate the feedback. And I agree with you 100%!!! After all my research and reading the awesome responses in this thread, I decided to get the TA05-R after all. If my LHS still has it, I'll be picking it up tonight!
But just to address some of your concerns with my methodology, here was my thought process...
1) LW not being strong - I only gathered that after I read about it on this forum. Then I also read that the TC3 suspension is even worse. Ya know what? I raced a TC3 on carpet when I was in the US and beat the hell out of that car - never broke a thing, not one thing. So, yeah, the TA05-R is most likely fine.
2) Steering option - I wanted it for the bearings, not for the bling (although that's a nice litle benifit). Since the R comes with the carbon bits in that area, I'll just get bearings if it doesn't already come with them and skip the Blue aluminum bits. One question though, is that carbon steering plate a good idea since it comes with bearings also, or does the kit itself have bearings in that area?
3) TRF shocks - I know they rock. Are they required though? Again, the fastest guy in the A-main runs a box stock TA05-IFS with only bearings in the steering, a front 1-way, and the stock shocks, so it can be done. Not really sure though if these are official Tamiya races though. They might be, because Tamiya's top driver (forgot his name) is comming here on Feb 17th.
4) Stifness - I don't have first hand experience with this chassis, but I'd imagine if the braces are stiffer (as the R version has the carbon reinforced bits) it should not flex as much.
5) I am not wanting the tub chassis because of cost. I have a pretty good budget these days and can really buy anything I want. Doesn't mean I want to though, he he he. I'm sure I can have just as much fun with the TA05-R as with any other chassis out there. The real reason I wanted the tub chassis is because the skill level of the people I'll be racing with seems to vary greatly. If you get T-boned, I'd think the tub would protect your gear a little better than it being exposed. I'd rather replace a $5 chassis than a $100 servo.
With all that being said though, I'm not oblivious to the fact that the R model is the better choice. I am not new to R/C either. Been racing Nitro's for years, and did electric touring w/rubber tires for about a year.
Just wanted to guage the state of things to see what's what. And from your oustanding reply, I know I made the right choice in joining this forum.
Keep your fingers crossed for me guys. I'm hoping my LHS didn't sell his TA05-R yet, cause I'm picking it up tonight!!!
- Paulie
01-27-2008, 03:08 PM
#48
To solve the static buildup problem, I think you can just change the aluminum center plate to the carbon one (#53904).
Man, that's cool that you guys have connections in Okinawa! I'm a 3/4 Okinawan nikkeijin, but I haven't been to Okinawa in over 8 years. My family lives mostly in the Takahara and Ishikawa areas... hopefully I'll be heading that direction soon!
Man, that's cool that you guys have connections in Okinawa! I'm a 3/4 Okinawan nikkeijin, but I haven't been to Okinawa in over 8 years. My family lives mostly in the Takahara and Ishikawa areas... hopefully I'll be heading that direction soon!
01-27-2008, 04:33 PM
#49
Hey Brian, hope you can make it out to TCS. I'm doin GT2 because its the more competitive of the 2 classes. So it should be fun.
Does anyone know if the IFS comes with universals or dog bones?
Does anyone know if the IFS comes with universals or dog bones?
01-27-2008, 04:34 PM
#50
Hey Brian, hope you can make it out to TCS. I'm doin GT2 because its the more competitive of the 2 classes. So it should be fun.
Does anyone know if the IFS comes with universals or dog bones?
Does anyone know if the IFS comes with universals or dog bones?
01-27-2008, 04:34 PM
#51
Hey Brian, hope you can make it out to TCS. I'm doin GT2 because its the more competitive of the 2 classes. So it should be fun.
Does anyone know if the IFS comes with universals or dog bones?
Does anyone know if the IFS comes with universals or dog bones?
01-27-2008, 04:38 PM
#52
Sorry. Multiple post. Trying to surf and post from my iPhone at work in a factory. Haha
01-27-2008, 05:27 PM
#53
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01-27-2008, 09:00 PM
#55
TA05
the car is capable of working well in any configuration .in the last few years ive ran the car with the stock arms lite carbon ta04 ams lt wht evoiv setup and the last one was with the evo 5 short arm conversion.you just have to take the time to figure out which works for you.a short to med track with techniqal infield will require a solid handling car precision.the stock chassis,evo5 arms set wide aluminum rear axle plastic presision diff wide pitch pulleys belts lite middle shaft steel axles up front shave off the axles at the nut so you dont rip the front off on a board black belt with the yellow letters set loose.you can shave the battery slots in gt1 .brushless use the smallest spur gear that will fit .trf shocks are the only must have on any tamiya car.nsx body is still the best i like the 2004.
01-27-2008, 10:22 PM
#56
Solara,
I really appreciate the feedback. And I agree with you 100%!!! After all my research and reading the awesome responses in this thread, I decided to get the TA05-R after all. If my LHS still has it, I'll be picking it up tonight!
But just to address some of your concerns with my methodology, here was my thought process...
1) LW not being strong - I only gathered that after I read about it on this forum. Then I also read that the TC3 suspension is even worse. Ya know what? I raced a TC3 on carpet when I was in the US and beat the hell out of that car - never broke a thing, not one thing. So, yeah, the TA05-R is most likely fine.
2) Steering option - I wanted it for the bearings, not for the bling (although that's a nice litle benifit). Since the R comes with the carbon bits in that area, I'll just get bearings if it doesn't already come with them and skip the Blue aluminum bits. One question though, is that carbon steering plate a good idea since it comes with bearings also, or does the kit itself have bearings in that area?
3) TRF shocks - I know they rock. Are they required though? Again, the fastest guy in the A-main runs a box stock TA05-IFS with only bearings in the steering, a front 1-way, and the stock shocks, so it can be done. Not really sure though if these are official Tamiya races though. They might be, because Tamiya's top driver (forgot his name) is comming here on Feb 17th.
4) Stifness - I don't have first hand experience with this chassis, but I'd imagine if the braces are stiffer (as the R version has the carbon reinforced bits) it should not flex as much.
5) I am not wanting the tub chassis because of cost. I have a pretty good budget these days and can really buy anything I want. Doesn't mean I want to though, he he he. I'm sure I can have just as much fun with the TA05-R as with any other chassis out there. The real reason I wanted the tub chassis is because the skill level of the people I'll be racing with seems to vary greatly. If you get T-boned, I'd think the tub would protect your gear a little better than it being exposed. I'd rather replace a $5 chassis than a $100 servo.
With all that being said though, I'm not oblivious to the fact that the R model is the better choice. I am not new to R/C either. Been racing Nitro's for years, and did electric touring w/rubber tires for about a year.
Just wanted to guage the state of things to see what's what. And from your oustanding reply, I know I made the right choice in joining this forum.
Keep your fingers crossed for me guys. I'm hoping my LHS didn't sell his TA05-R yet, cause I'm picking it up tonight!!!
- Paulie
I really appreciate the feedback. And I agree with you 100%!!! After all my research and reading the awesome responses in this thread, I decided to get the TA05-R after all. If my LHS still has it, I'll be picking it up tonight!
But just to address some of your concerns with my methodology, here was my thought process...
1) LW not being strong - I only gathered that after I read about it on this forum. Then I also read that the TC3 suspension is even worse. Ya know what? I raced a TC3 on carpet when I was in the US and beat the hell out of that car - never broke a thing, not one thing. So, yeah, the TA05-R is most likely fine.
2) Steering option - I wanted it for the bearings, not for the bling (although that's a nice litle benifit). Since the R comes with the carbon bits in that area, I'll just get bearings if it doesn't already come with them and skip the Blue aluminum bits. One question though, is that carbon steering plate a good idea since it comes with bearings also, or does the kit itself have bearings in that area?
3) TRF shocks - I know they rock. Are they required though? Again, the fastest guy in the A-main runs a box stock TA05-IFS with only bearings in the steering, a front 1-way, and the stock shocks, so it can be done. Not really sure though if these are official Tamiya races though. They might be, because Tamiya's top driver (forgot his name) is comming here on Feb 17th.
4) Stifness - I don't have first hand experience with this chassis, but I'd imagine if the braces are stiffer (as the R version has the carbon reinforced bits) it should not flex as much.
5) I am not wanting the tub chassis because of cost. I have a pretty good budget these days and can really buy anything I want. Doesn't mean I want to though, he he he. I'm sure I can have just as much fun with the TA05-R as with any other chassis out there. The real reason I wanted the tub chassis is because the skill level of the people I'll be racing with seems to vary greatly. If you get T-boned, I'd think the tub would protect your gear a little better than it being exposed. I'd rather replace a $5 chassis than a $100 servo.
With all that being said though, I'm not oblivious to the fact that the R model is the better choice. I am not new to R/C either. Been racing Nitro's for years, and did electric touring w/rubber tires for about a year.
Just wanted to guage the state of things to see what's what. And from your oustanding reply, I know I made the right choice in joining this forum.
Keep your fingers crossed for me guys. I'm hoping my LHS didn't sell his TA05-R yet, cause I'm picking it up tonight!!!
- Paulie
3) TA05-R comes with TRF shocks. Shouldn't be a concern (unless I missed your point)...
Also, pick up some 3mm shims of various thickness for the suspension, and 5mm shims to take the up-down out of the steering bell-cranks.
01-27-2008, 11:41 PM
#57
2) Yes, get the carbon drag-link. The stock drag-link cannot be fitted with bearings, and it's the source of huge amounts of steering play. And yes, use the stock carbon bell-cranks, and simply fit them with 4 850 (8x5mm) bearings...
3) TA05-R comes with TRF shocks. Shouldn't be a concern (unless I missed your point)...
Also, pick up some 3mm shims of various thickness for the suspension, and 5mm shims to take the up-down out of the steering bell-cranks.
3) TA05-R comes with TRF shocks. Shouldn't be a concern (unless I missed your point)...
Also, pick up some 3mm shims of various thickness for the suspension, and 5mm shims to take the up-down out of the steering bell-cranks.
The hobby shop is closed on Mondays! ARRGG!!! I'll be picking up the TA05-R as soon as I get off work on Tuesday if he still has it in stock.
While I have you guys here, I was going to ask your thoughts about batteries for these races.
In one class you are allowed to only use 6 cell stick packs, and the other, you are allowed to use any 6 cell configuration (stick or flat packs - flat packs being the kind you build yourself)
In either case, you are restricted to a 3700mah cell limit - any brand. The hobby shop here sells GP3700mah stick packs and GP3700mah loose cells by Cosmo Energy Corp. The stick pacs are not matched or zapped, and the loose cells are zapped only. As far as I saw, he didn't have any matched cells at all.
The only other 3700mah's he has are the Tamiya stick packs, which are GP3700mah "high voltage" and are hella expensive (probably because they are Tamiya).
In the US, I found 1 company that has the GP3700's - Integy. Integy has some GP3700mah stick packs, and also matched GP3700 loose cells for a very good price. You guys think they would be a good choice for me?
I used to run Integy Sanyo matched 3000mah and 3300 mah cells way back in the day using a Integy 16x2.5 pro charger, Integy Reactor 20 discharger, Integy Octane 2 discharge board, and Trinity Real Time 2 conditioning tray with outstanding results.
I know battery technology has come a LONG way since I was last into electrics...I feel like I'm starting completely over.
This time around, I was thinking about getting 3 Integy GP3700 stick packs, as well as 3 sets of the Integy matched GP3700's also, along with the Reactor 20 to discharge all of them, and the INDI Zero 6S 6A Discharge Board to further discharge the flatpacks, as I hear the GP cells like to be discharged to zero, unlike most NiMs. In fact, Eagle Racing here in Japan make a discharge board (that I think is the maker of the Integy one), that says it's good for NiCd's, and only GP NiMh cells.
As far as chargers go, I have the new Integy 16x705 coming. I had great results with their older model, and this one is basically the new version, 8 years newer in fact. Kind of simplified compared to some of the other chargers on the market, but it does what I need it to do, it's small, and it was cheap.
So, you guys think I'm headed in the right direction as far as battery gear goes?
Are there better battery alternatives? I ask because just because the GP3700's is what most use here, doesn't mean there isn't a better, albeit lower mah, battery in the US. Afterall, the heats are like 5 min, and the main is like 8 min, so I'm not sure if the capacity of 3700 is even needed.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
- Paulie
01-28-2008, 12:19 AM
#58
Can you make your own stick packs? If so, that might be the way to go for that class. I'd ask first of course. Back in the day we used to dead short the GP's. Of course you gotta bring the voltage way down before you do that. I've done that with my old GP stick packs as well. Of course you'll loose some run time if you do that to them. I can't remember if my friend had to be careful with run time on his packs that I sent him. He ran 8 minutes with 23t.
01-28-2008, 05:24 AM
#59
Can you make your own stick packs? If so, that might be the way to go for that class. I'd ask first of course. Back in the day we used to dead short the GP's. Of course you gotta bring the voltage way down before you do that. I've done that with my old GP stick packs as well. Of course you'll loose some run time if you do that to them. I can't remember if my friend had to be careful with run time on his packs that I sent him. He ran 8 minutes with 23t.
Not sure about making your own stick packs, but...
What do you think of the Integy Reactor 20 for quick discharging, and the INDI Zero 6S 6A tray for equalizing the flat packs? Good idea or no?
- Paulie
01-28-2008, 11:40 AM
#60
Rule number 4 for 2008 TCS racing is as follows:
# The batteries that are allowed for the 2008 season are:
a. Sanyo NI-CD 2400, Sanyo NI-MH HV 3000, 3300 & 3600
b. Panasonic 3000 Ultra Metal Hydride, Panasonic 3000 Stock Metal Hydride
c. GP (Gold Peak) 3300 & 3700, 4300, 4700
d. Intellect Batteries 3600, 3800 and LRP 3700, 4200
e. EPIC 3800, EP 4600.
f. LIPO batteries are only legal for the following classes: F103-GT, GT-2, GT-3 and 4WD-Off-Road. At this point in time the only three packs allowed are the Orion/Peak Carbon Edition 3200, 3600 and Platinum Edition 4800.
g. Sport packs that are readily available at hobby stores are legal as long as they are assembled from the general hobby industry i.e. Orion, Peak, Reedy, Duratrax, Dynamite, Trinity and Hobbico etc.
For GT-2 & 3 classes (silver can & ROAR 27t), I would try the Integy VESC IB4200 600s 1.29v packs. They can be found for well under $50 if search the net. With Integy's matching system (25A dishcarge & 370 second voltage sample), they have the highest voltage of any Integy set, but the rather low run-time really saves cost. Just be aware that IB4200 cells are very finicky. You would do best to get a equalizer tray that has a .9v cuttoff like the Trinity D-90, as they shouldn't be brought bellow that point. And always store them with a charge because they self-discharge quickly, and monitor their voltage once or twice a week...
Or if you can afford it, just go lipo. The Orion 3600 has the highest amp output, yet still fits in the spaces that regular NIMH packs would go (no mods to the chassis)...
PS: The Reactor20 is a great fast-discharger. I picked a used one up from eBay for 99 cents...
# The batteries that are allowed for the 2008 season are:
a. Sanyo NI-CD 2400, Sanyo NI-MH HV 3000, 3300 & 3600
b. Panasonic 3000 Ultra Metal Hydride, Panasonic 3000 Stock Metal Hydride
c. GP (Gold Peak) 3300 & 3700, 4300, 4700
d. Intellect Batteries 3600, 3800 and LRP 3700, 4200
e. EPIC 3800, EP 4600.
f. LIPO batteries are only legal for the following classes: F103-GT, GT-2, GT-3 and 4WD-Off-Road. At this point in time the only three packs allowed are the Orion/Peak Carbon Edition 3200, 3600 and Platinum Edition 4800.
g. Sport packs that are readily available at hobby stores are legal as long as they are assembled from the general hobby industry i.e. Orion, Peak, Reedy, Duratrax, Dynamite, Trinity and Hobbico etc.
For GT-2 & 3 classes (silver can & ROAR 27t), I would try the Integy VESC IB4200 600s 1.29v packs. They can be found for well under $50 if search the net. With Integy's matching system (25A dishcarge & 370 second voltage sample), they have the highest voltage of any Integy set, but the rather low run-time really saves cost. Just be aware that IB4200 cells are very finicky. You would do best to get a equalizer tray that has a .9v cuttoff like the Trinity D-90, as they shouldn't be brought bellow that point. And always store them with a charge because they self-discharge quickly, and monitor their voltage once or twice a week...
Or if you can afford it, just go lipo. The Orion 3600 has the highest amp output, yet still fits in the spaces that regular NIMH packs would go (no mods to the chassis)...
PS: The Reactor20 is a great fast-discharger. I picked a used one up from eBay for 99 cents...