288LikesTamiya mini cooper
11-27-2010, 09:34 AM
also they have pinions
The tool for aligning the gear I have not seen loose, but I am sure someone can measure the correct distance for the pinion.
11-27-2010, 05:07 PM
Just wondering, if I run out of the kits 3g grease, can I use 2g grease I have left over from my TA05v.2?
I don't know what the difference is between 3g and 2g..
Anything helps
Thanks
I don't know what the difference is between 3g and 2g..
Anything helps
Thanks
11-27-2010, 06:03 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Zac you shouldn't run out of grease, or even come close to running out of grease. I guess if you do run out of 3g grease I don't see why 2g grease wouldn't work, it should be just fine.
Jay
Jay
11-27-2010, 07:49 PM
tamiya supplies plenty of equipment during the build, i didn't bother to build the m05 pro's stock diff since i had a ta03 diff i took out of m03r
11-28-2010, 05:38 AM
M05 ball diff
Hey Guys
I'm having issues with the diff loosing up after 2-3 runs other guys at our track have also been have the same problem. The bolt/screw head is on the d/s (left). Any advice would greatly be appreciated. Thanks
Tomasb
I'm having issues with the diff loosing up after 2-3 runs other guys at our track have also been have the same problem. The bolt/screw head is on the d/s (left). Any advice would greatly be appreciated. Thanks
Tomasb
11-28-2010, 05:54 AM
Loc-tite that thing.
11-28-2010, 07:24 AM
run lock nut on motor side
that way less likely to loosen because rotation will tend to tighten when driving forward.
Have run the M05 ball diff for over 10 race meets and not had a problem,
loc-tite as well to make sure.
Hope this helps
11-28-2010, 09:47 AM
Diff
Thanks guys!
11-29-2010, 12:26 AM
Tech Regular
.......and build the diff with AW grease as it will increase the period between having to tighten and re-tighten. I ran my new M05 ball diff (with AW grease and loc tite on nut) at our first TC meet for the new season and it still seems pretty tight. The constant tightening on the diff screw is what eventually leads to crushing the thrust bearing. I will post again next year (if I rememeber ) after the next TC meet, to say how well it is holding up!
) after the next TC meet, to say how well it is holding up!
11-29-2010, 01:11 AM
For the MO5 ball diff, I now use the steel outer diff drives from the MO5Ra car and then modify the 416 diff bolt to accept a 2.5mm bolt. Then use a x-ray steering bearing in place of the thrust bearing and assemble as normal, using red loctite on the bolt and tighten as you see fit.
I then leave the assembly to dry for 24 Hrs and then run the car. I have found this to be much longer lasting than the standard alloy MO5 diff drives. I have found that for our racing here in australia using the HW BL system you want the diff tight otherwise you get left behind, due to lack of drive.
However at the Masters on the weekend even with the diff done up tight, it sounded like it was slipping.I might add an extra washer over the bearing to prevent damage when tightening and to act as a spacer to tighten further.
My thoughts only. However the best solution is the TAO3 ball diff which alleviates modifying the standard MO5 diff. I just use an extra large cone washer and replace the thrust bearing with a 1150 ball bearing and use fuel tubing in the diff outdrives to prevent stripping of the splines.
Regards,
Calvin.
I then leave the assembly to dry for 24 Hrs and then run the car. I have found this to be much longer lasting than the standard alloy MO5 diff drives. I have found that for our racing here in australia using the HW BL system you want the diff tight otherwise you get left behind, due to lack of drive.
However at the Masters on the weekend even with the diff done up tight, it sounded like it was slipping.I might add an extra washer over the bearing to prevent damage when tightening and to act as a spacer to tighten further.
My thoughts only. However the best solution is the TAO3 ball diff which alleviates modifying the standard MO5 diff. I just use an extra large cone washer and replace the thrust bearing with a 1150 ball bearing and use fuel tubing in the diff outdrives to prevent stripping of the splines.
Regards,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 11-29-2010 at 01:12 AM. Reason: spelling and grammer
11-29-2010, 01:41 AM
Tech Regular
We are currently still running the sport tuned motor in our local TC so the strain on the diff is not as high as when using a BL system......this will change when the rules are adapted to catter for the Tamiya 18T BL system possibly for the 2011/2012 season. Not as powerful as the 13T but still has loads more torque than a sport tuned.
11-29-2010, 01:48 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (22)
For the MO5 ball diff, I now use the steel outer diff drives from the MO5Ra car and then modify the 416 diff bolt to accept a 2.5mm bolt. Then use a x-ray steering bearing in place of the thrust bearing and assemble as normal, using red loctite on the bolt and tighten as you see fit.
I then leave the assembly to dry for 24 Hrs and then run the car. I have found this to be much longer lasting than the standard alloy MO5 diff drives. I have found that for our racing here in australia using the HW BL system you want the diff tight otherwise you get left behind, due to lack of drive.
However at the Masters on the weekend even with the diff done up tight, it sounded like it was slipping.I might add an extra washer over the bearing to prevent damage when tightening and to act as a spacer to tighten further.
My thoughts only. However the best solution is the TAO3 ball diff which alleviates modifying the standard MO5 diff. I just use an extra large cone washer and replace the thrust bearing with a 1150 ball bearing and use fuel tubing in the diff outdrives to prevent stripping of the splines.
Regards,
Calvin.
I then leave the assembly to dry for 24 Hrs and then run the car. I have found this to be much longer lasting than the standard alloy MO5 diff drives. I have found that for our racing here in australia using the HW BL system you want the diff tight otherwise you get left behind, due to lack of drive.
However at the Masters on the weekend even with the diff done up tight, it sounded like it was slipping.I might add an extra washer over the bearing to prevent damage when tightening and to act as a spacer to tighten further.
My thoughts only. However the best solution is the TAO3 ball diff which alleviates modifying the standard MO5 diff. I just use an extra large cone washer and replace the thrust bearing with a 1150 ball bearing and use fuel tubing in the diff outdrives to prevent stripping of the splines.
Regards,
Calvin.
11-29-2010, 02:09 AM
Tech Apprentice
For the MO5 ball diff, I now use the steel outer diff drives from the MO5Ra car and then modify the 416 diff bolt to accept a 2.5mm bolt. Then use a x-ray steering bearing in place of the thrust bearing and assemble as normal, using red loctite on the bolt and tighten as you see fit.
I then leave the assembly to dry for 24 Hrs and then run the car. I have found this to be much longer lasting than the standard alloy MO5 diff drives. I have found that for our racing here in australia using the HW BL system you want the diff tight otherwise you get left behind, due to lack of drive.
However at the Masters on the weekend even with the diff done up tight, it sounded like it was slipping.I might add an extra washer over the bearing to prevent damage when tightening and to act as a spacer to tighten further.
My thoughts only. However the best solution is the TAO3 ball diff which alleviates modifying the standard MO5 diff. I just use an extra large cone washer and replace the thrust bearing with a 1150 ball bearing and use fuel tubing in the diff outdrives to prevent stripping of the splines.
Regards,
Calvin.
I then leave the assembly to dry for 24 Hrs and then run the car. I have found this to be much longer lasting than the standard alloy MO5 diff drives. I have found that for our racing here in australia using the HW BL system you want the diff tight otherwise you get left behind, due to lack of drive.
However at the Masters on the weekend even with the diff done up tight, it sounded like it was slipping.I might add an extra washer over the bearing to prevent damage when tightening and to act as a spacer to tighten further.
My thoughts only. However the best solution is the TAO3 ball diff which alleviates modifying the standard MO5 diff. I just use an extra large cone washer and replace the thrust bearing with a 1150 ball bearing and use fuel tubing in the diff outdrives to prevent stripping of the splines.
Regards,
Calvin.
Do you mean putting the tubing within the outdrives instead of the 'o'rings?
Another option is to use red urethane foam pads (cut in half) a good option. This is what is used in the TA-05. Click here.
11-29-2010, 02:36 AM
"Do you mean putting the tubing within the outdrives instead of the 'o'rings?"
Yes. I have found that the 'o' rings tend to squash and let the outdrives come out of the splines and strip. I was advised to loctite them in, however that would make it harder for dis assembly if required.
"Another option is to use red urethane foam pads (cut in half) a good option."
I have used these before and found that they tend to squash as well after a period of time. I have also covered the splines in anti-wear grease which works but a small piece of nitro fuel line works a treat in each diff cup.
On the weekend I used my MO5 diff until I could hear it slipping, then changed to the tightened TAO3 ball diff. I don't think my car suffered from any loss of speed using the different diff and still retained good turn in.
Just things to try and experiment with and workout what works for your driving style. I do know that I used a different front tyre to everyone else, which gave good steering and forward bite, however does make the car harder to drive as you have to be less aggressive on the steering.
Later,
Calvin.
Yes. I have found that the 'o' rings tend to squash and let the outdrives come out of the splines and strip. I was advised to loctite them in, however that would make it harder for dis assembly if required.
"Another option is to use red urethane foam pads (cut in half) a good option."
I have used these before and found that they tend to squash as well after a period of time. I have also covered the splines in anti-wear grease which works but a small piece of nitro fuel line works a treat in each diff cup.
On the weekend I used my MO5 diff until I could hear it slipping, then changed to the tightened TAO3 ball diff. I don't think my car suffered from any loss of speed using the different diff and still retained good turn in.
Just things to try and experiment with and workout what works for your driving style. I do know that I used a different front tyre to everyone else, which gave good steering and forward bite, however does make the car harder to drive as you have to be less aggressive on the steering.
Later,
Calvin.
11-29-2010, 03:35 AM
We have switched from Silver Can to 21.5 brushless with no timing for mini racing at our track. As mentioned several times here, it is a very nice setup. Speeds are almost identical to a plane Jane silver can but there is more torque of course. The cars are much more evenly matched since the switch.
To deal with the extra torque, I dialed in some expo on the throttle on my radio. I have gradually removed this as I adjusted my driving style to account for this. I'm still having good luck with the shimmed gear diff as well.
I look forward to the Tamiya BL system but in the mean time, this works really well.
To deal with the extra torque, I dialed in some expo on the throttle on my radio. I have gradually removed this as I adjusted my driving style to account for this. I'm still having good luck with the shimmed gear diff as well.
I look forward to the Tamiya BL system but in the mean time, this works really well.