288LikesTamiya mini cooper
09-23-2008, 07:07 PM
#7276
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ZK, Tim told me what your car was like and now that I've seen it I'm amazed! Damn, that's cool....
09-23-2008, 07:39 PM
#7277
Btw nice grammar.
Dayum ever since i bought a kawasaki sportsbike I've been lost when it comes to rc!!!!
Has anyone watched my m03r "unboxing" video on youtube? My screen name is rcpro17
also do m01's still exist? I've had one back in 01 but it got awayy. Do people still sell these still private party?
09-23-2008, 08:04 PM
#7278
09-23-2008, 09:03 PM
#7279
LATC3: Here are a couple of items that you may find helpful, all lovingly typed out using proper grammar. (sort of)
These are general rules that I found can make a car a bit easier to drive, on most surfaces.
Tires: The rule of thumb is to have a little more grip on the front tires than the rears. I usually run type A slicks up front, and s grip radials at the rear. Another rule (that I don't really follow) is to have the tire inserts harder up front than in the rear tires. I have found that I can run hard inserts at all 4 corners without any problems. The difference in grip between front and rear is more critical.
Toe: Most will suggest having a very slight toe out in the front, with a little toe in at the rear, about 1.5 degrees is usual. I run almost neutral toe at the front wheels, and 1.5 in at the rear. I've found that too much toe out at the front wheels can make the car twitchy. The grippier tires up front will compensate for the lack of toe on turn in. The added bonus is that you get a little less drag having your front wheels straight.
Dampers: There are loads of opinions on what works and what makes a difference. The general school of thought is harder springs up front, with softer springs at the rear. Shock oil isn't terribly critical, but it can make a subtle difference in the way the car handles, especially at turn in. Again, stiffer at the front, softer at the rear.
Limiting travel in the dampers is probably more important than what weight of oil you use, however. A couple of O-rings inside, under the piston, and one outside, on the shock shaft can help a lot. The O-rings inside limit droop, and the O-ring outside, if your car is setup in typical fashion, will be just enough to keep your car from bottoming out. Hitting bottom on your chassis is an absolute no-no. If you bottom out, you lose traction and control.
In any case, these are things that I've found that have helped me. They may not be right, and I can't guarantee any of it will work for you. I know guys running totally stock minis that kick my butt on a weekly basis. Some of those guys are even running the stock kit tires. (show-offy bastards!) I suppose then that these tips just make the car a little easier to drive if you're as lame as I am at RC driving.
Jim
These are general rules that I found can make a car a bit easier to drive, on most surfaces.
Tires: The rule of thumb is to have a little more grip on the front tires than the rears. I usually run type A slicks up front, and s grip radials at the rear. Another rule (that I don't really follow) is to have the tire inserts harder up front than in the rear tires. I have found that I can run hard inserts at all 4 corners without any problems. The difference in grip between front and rear is more critical.
Toe: Most will suggest having a very slight toe out in the front, with a little toe in at the rear, about 1.5 degrees is usual. I run almost neutral toe at the front wheels, and 1.5 in at the rear. I've found that too much toe out at the front wheels can make the car twitchy. The grippier tires up front will compensate for the lack of toe on turn in. The added bonus is that you get a little less drag having your front wheels straight.
Dampers: There are loads of opinions on what works and what makes a difference. The general school of thought is harder springs up front, with softer springs at the rear. Shock oil isn't terribly critical, but it can make a subtle difference in the way the car handles, especially at turn in. Again, stiffer at the front, softer at the rear.
Limiting travel in the dampers is probably more important than what weight of oil you use, however. A couple of O-rings inside, under the piston, and one outside, on the shock shaft can help a lot. The O-rings inside limit droop, and the O-ring outside, if your car is setup in typical fashion, will be just enough to keep your car from bottoming out. Hitting bottom on your chassis is an absolute no-no. If you bottom out, you lose traction and control.
In any case, these are things that I've found that have helped me. They may not be right, and I can't guarantee any of it will work for you. I know guys running totally stock minis that kick my butt on a weekly basis. Some of those guys are even running the stock kit tires. (show-offy bastards!) I suppose then that these tips just make the car a little easier to drive if you're as lame as I am at RC driving.
Jim
09-24-2008, 04:18 AM
#7280
What dyno are you guys using and those red dot are those the ones that the guy in the US runs in?
Who is this man, and are those bananas loaded?
And is that a forest of Sport-Tuneds?
Click here to read about Tims latest trip to Japan, and also to check out our HUGE Sport-Tuned Dyno test....
Oh and lots of new additions to the Mini Fans area, and also some other new pics of our own cars in the Gallery.
Who is this man, and are those bananas loaded?
And is that a forest of Sport-Tuneds?
Click here to read about Tims latest trip to Japan, and also to check out our HUGE Sport-Tuned Dyno test....
Oh and lots of new additions to the Mini Fans area, and also some other new pics of our own cars in the Gallery.
09-24-2008, 04:25 AM
#7281
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The red dots to which they refer in their article are DEFINITELY not the ones that we sell.
Aside from a few limited runs for special customers (and you know who you are!), we use only Johnson 540J silver can cores- totally legal for TCS competition and beloved by racers all around the world.
Aside from a few limited runs for special customers (and you know who you are!), we use only Johnson 540J silver can cores- totally legal for TCS competition and beloved by racers all around the world.
09-24-2008, 02:07 PM
#7282
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The readings should be taken only as a comparison between individual motors, not as absolute data. And taken as such, the readings provided are relevant.
Last edited by tony gray; 09-24-2008 at 02:27 PM.
....just a list would be great....and if anyone has a idea of which one/one's seem to be best
!!!
09-24-2008, 02:51 PM
#7284
I have a new Manta Ray one (still in the package) in the for sale section right now if you're interested. $22 shipped.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...thers-nip.html
09-24-2008, 03:49 PM
#7287
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They sure do, or you could just grab 30 bucks and set it on fire.
Either way the result is the same - a WASTE OF MONEY..
Sorry to be a bit negative there, but the 3 Racing ball diff is quite possibly the poorest quality item for an M03 we've ever seen. They are complete junk. AND...you have to mill out part of the chassis to get it to fit!
Our choice is always the TA03 unit. Much lighter than the Manta-Ray one so it spins up quicker.
Either way the result is the same - a WASTE OF MONEY..
Sorry to be a bit negative there, but the 3 Racing ball diff is quite possibly the poorest quality item for an M03 we've ever seen. They are complete junk. AND...you have to mill out part of the chassis to get it to fit!
Our choice is always the TA03 unit. Much lighter than the Manta-Ray one so it spins up quicker.
09-24-2008, 04:34 PM
#7289
I bought my 3racing ball diff on ebay for $9. its fully adjustible and i think it spools up quicker then the ta03 diff. And i own two ta03 cars and four ta03 ball diffs, i think there's a huge difference.
The milling part does suck since i didn't wana chop my chassis. BUT i could still use any other diff besides the 3racing diff.
Also tony my problem was half stearing alignment but still has a unstable feel to it.
The milling part does suck since i didn't wana chop my chassis. BUT i could still use any other diff besides the 3racing diff.
Also tony my problem was half stearing alignment but still has a unstable feel to it.