288LikesTamiya mini cooper
09-16-2007, 01:32 PM
#4981
Does anyone sell a screw set for the mo3r that uses allen wrenches instead of philips head screws..
09-16-2007, 01:47 PM
#4982
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You can use hex screws in a Mini (I've seen it done) but all the screws in the car are self-tapping and its not easy to find hex screws like that.
Not sure why you'd want to anyway? It's not like you pull the thing apart all that often?
Not sure why you'd want to anyway? It's not like you pull the thing apart all that often?
09-16-2007, 01:49 PM
#4983
well, besided the fact my personal motor is dog slow.... a few screws kept comming loose
09-16-2007, 08:14 PM
#4984
wallstreet- try some loctite blue. 
09-16-2007, 08:16 PM
#4985
And any tips for breaking in a motor so its fast ?
Is there a number to shoot for if i am running the motor on my gfx at 2 vlts
2 amps? 3 amps?
Is there a number to shoot for if i am running the motor on my gfx at 2 vlts
2 amps? 3 amps?
09-16-2007, 08:17 PM
#4986
i always build my minis with regular metric 3mm screws, and toss the self tappers. seems to hold better, and strips out less. you can use ally ones after prethreading with a steel one, for appearance and wieght... lol! as if the weight is really an issue... mostly for looks.
09-17-2007, 04:02 AM
#4988
Spring setup
Hi TryHard,
Blue rear, yellow front is good. Yes front is heavier, but you want to prevent weight from transferring to the rear during acceleration. Softer front will give more grip during acceleration and turning.
Anyways, try many things to find the right setup for your driving style. But a pro did tell me his mini setup... blue rear, yellow front as a starting point. Also try 30wt, 3 holes, without the red thing in the bladder of the shocks.
Have fun.
Joel
P.S. Gear diff with anti wear grease. No need for ball diff.
Blue rear, yellow front is good. Yes front is heavier, but you want to prevent weight from transferring to the rear during acceleration. Softer front will give more grip during acceleration and turning.
Anyways, try many things to find the right setup for your driving style. But a pro did tell me his mini setup... blue rear, yellow front as a starting point. Also try 30wt, 3 holes, without the red thing in the bladder of the shocks.
Have fun.
Joel
P.S. Gear diff with anti wear grease. No need for ball diff.
09-17-2007, 05:19 AM
#4989
Hi TryHard,
Blue rear, yellow front is good. Yes front is heavier, but you want to prevent weight from transferring to the rear during acceleration. Softer front will give more grip during acceleration and turning.
Anyways, try many things to find the right setup for your driving style. But a pro did tell me his mini setup... blue rear, yellow front as a starting point. Also try 30wt, 3 holes, without the red thing in the bladder of the shocks.
Have fun.
Joel
P.S. Gear diff with anti wear grease. No need for ball diff.
Blue rear, yellow front is good. Yes front is heavier, but you want to prevent weight from transferring to the rear during acceleration. Softer front will give more grip during acceleration and turning.
Anyways, try many things to find the right setup for your driving style. But a pro did tell me his mini setup... blue rear, yellow front as a starting point. Also try 30wt, 3 holes, without the red thing in the bladder of the shocks.
Have fun.
Joel
P.S. Gear diff with anti wear grease. No need for ball diff.
Currently have the car setup with Yellow Front, Blue rear, and 50wt 2 hole in the front, 40wt 2hole in the rear. Feels pretty good so far, on a little try out last night. Going to have a run again tonight on a slightly larger/higher speed area, and have a little play.
And I've still got a gear diff in the front with the AW greese, feels nice and tight
09-17-2007, 09:07 AM
#4990
All of the screws can be replaced with machine screws. I used buttonhead screws, mainly 3x10's and 3x 14's and 16's. the chassis screws should be tapped. the suspension ones don't need to be. Use a 4x6 flanged tube over the screws on the camber links (part#50593). You will need 2 bags. I'm with you on those philips head screws. You can buy all kinds of hardware at Mcmaster.com. They are a large industrial supplier that will sell to the public. It is amazing what they stock that we in R/c have been paying thru the nose for
09-18-2007, 12:25 PM
#4991
well had a little play around with my mini again tonight... though not before rebuilding the shocks!
Now I'm using 35wt all round, with 2 hole pistons, and instead of the hard plastic spacer, I'm using 2 white o-rings, either side of a 1mm alloy shim (this following on from the build tips on the Tamiya USA site). As I'm using the short CVA's (the see through blue ones that come with the M03-R), means I can get the shock length happily to 57mm (the build tips advise 56.5). Also still using yellow f, blue R, in terms of springs and no foam above the blader.
The surface I'm mainly running on is very dusty, and I've found I'm too violent with the throttle let off and turn in, the rear will break loose... however on a grippier surface the balance felt pretty good So I'll leave it like that for now 
I think heavier front oil might help a bit maybe up too 50wt again
I'm hopefully gonna give the car a run on some rug this weekend... got some roll bars if required (although they are off the car at the moment).
And the car is certainly nippy enough with the Monster Stock in... if anything it feels slightly overgeared with the 20t pinion on the tight area I'm running on, but hey.. who cares, 'tis quick
Still learning how to drive a FWD too... can't just mash the throttle like on the TC, smooth, keeping the corner speed up, seems to be the way forward
Laters
Ed
Now I'm using 35wt all round, with 2 hole pistons, and instead of the hard plastic spacer, I'm using 2 white o-rings, either side of a 1mm alloy shim (this following on from the build tips on the Tamiya USA site). As I'm using the short CVA's (the see through blue ones that come with the M03-R), means I can get the shock length happily to 57mm (the build tips advise 56.5). Also still using yellow f, blue R, in terms of springs and no foam above the blader.
The surface I'm mainly running on is very dusty, and I've found I'm too violent with the throttle let off and turn in, the rear will break loose... however on a grippier surface the balance felt pretty good
So I'll leave it like that for now I think heavier front oil might help a bit maybe up too 50wt again
I'm hopefully gonna give the car a run on some rug this weekend... got some roll bars if required (although they are off the car at the moment).
And the car is certainly nippy enough with the Monster Stock in... if anything it feels slightly overgeared with the 20t pinion on the tight area I'm running on, but hey.. who cares, 'tis quick
Still learning how to drive a FWD too... can't just mash the throttle like on the TC, smooth, keeping the corner speed up, seems to be the way forward
Laters
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 09-18-2007 at 01:26 PM.
09-18-2007, 01:04 PM
#4992
mini newbie!
Ed,
I too am running mini for the first time and my first build. Recieving a lot of help from lots of friends with mini. Without them I'd be lost. Here in Aliso Viejo,Ca. we are running the teflon spacer that come in the shocks on the bottom. I never throw mine away but I was told to run 3 on those spacers under the piston this is using the plastic shocks. Run 60 wt in the front and 35wt. in the rear. Short yellow in the front and short neon yellow in the back. I don't know if this set-up will work with yours but if you find one that works post it on you website! More info later!
Gotta go!
I too am running mini for the first time and my first build. Recieving a lot of help from lots of friends with mini. Without them I'd be lost. Here in Aliso Viejo,Ca. we are running the teflon spacer that come in the shocks on the bottom. I never throw mine away but I was told to run 3 on those spacers under the piston this is using the plastic shocks. Run 60 wt in the front and 35wt. in the rear. Short yellow in the front and short neon yellow in the back. I don't know if this set-up will work with yours but if you find one that works post it on you website! More info later!
Gotta go!
M-03 gears!
