Tamiya mini cooper
#4606
i have foam tires too with panasport type wheels..
#4607
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
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I've noticed with my M03-M that it is wearing the insides of the front tyres mainly. It seems like only 1/3rd of the front tyres are getting any real contact with the track, even in straights. I am running the plastic uprights at the moment, but have a set of the Tamiya limited edition aluminium uprights on order at the moment. The tyres I am running on the front are the HPI X-Patterns.
The car doesn't seem to have a heap of bump steer, and since the top arms are non-adjustable, trying to give it neutral camber is near impossible.
Has anyone else dealt with front tyre wear issue? Or is it the case that "well it is always there"?
The car doesn't seem to have a heap of bump steer, and since the top arms are non-adjustable, trying to give it neutral camber is near impossible.
Has anyone else dealt with front tyre wear issue? Or is it the case that "well it is always there"?
You just learn to live with it. There isn't a thing you can do to change it, its part of running a Mini. We don't worry about it.
#4609
I've noticed with my M03-M that it is wearing the insides of the front tyres mainly. It seems like only 1/3rd of the front tyres are getting any real contact with the track, even in straights. I am running the plastic uprights at the moment, but have a set of the Tamiya limited edition aluminium uprights on order at the moment. The tyres I am running on the front are the HPI X-Patterns.
The car doesn't seem to have a heap of bump steer, and since the top arms are non-adjustable, trying to give it neutral camber is near impossible.
One thing I am tempting to try is a set of rear top arms on the front, and see if it moves the wear pattern to the middle of the tyre.
Has anyone else dealt with front tyre wear issue? Or is it the case that "well it is always there"?
The car doesn't seem to have a heap of bump steer, and since the top arms are non-adjustable, trying to give it neutral camber is near impossible.
One thing I am tempting to try is a set of rear top arms on the front, and see if it moves the wear pattern to the middle of the tyre.
Has anyone else dealt with front tyre wear issue? Or is it the case that "well it is always there"?
I dont use the inserts supplied. I use rubber tour car inserts cut down to size. but even now RIDE, SPICE all have mini rubber inserts. Spice inserts are pretty thick at 5 & 5.5mm and really fillout the tire. Ride inserts are 4.1mm.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/defaul...&filter_id=108
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/defaul...&filter_id=280
#4610
#4614
I think Burlap was using HPI X-patts in which case it'll be next to impossible to double stuff. For after market tyres like the x-patts just use a touring car insert. It should fill out nicely and fit easily.
For Tamiya tyres which are 60D you can double stuff the inserts easily. and like Turbonium said keep uncut insert to the outside.
For Tamiya tyres which are 60D you can double stuff the inserts easily. and like Turbonium said keep uncut insert to the outside.
#4616
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Thats just the way it is Dec... Sometimes your tyres will wear like that, sometimes they wont. But, most of the time they will. I can look at half a dozen worn sets here in my front room and they're all worn on the inside.
You just learn to live with it. There isn't a thing you can do to change it, its part of running a Mini. We don't worry about it.
You just learn to live with it. There isn't a thing you can do to change it, its part of running a Mini. We don't worry about it.
#4617
Tech Champion
iTrader: (136)
I have not tried this but I am going to, because I have had bad experiences with Tamiya sedan wheels as compared to other manufacturers. My friend and his three children race on a local level. He uses automotive Goop to seal the tires to the wheels. I believe you have to let them sit over night, and after the tires is worn out or a wheel breaks you can remove the tire.
#4618
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
One way to remove the tire from the wheel is to dip it into acetone. When I mean dip, I mean let it sit in the acetone over night and you may have to weight the tires down so they don't float. Check the tires from time to time to see if you are able to peel the tire away from the wheel/rim.
Here comes the disclaimer part of the message - I have only done this on off-road tires and touring/sedan tires. The results are variant from tire and wheel compound. I have had some tires get too dry after treating them in this manner and they never recovered. Some of the wheels melted in the acetone making quite a mess but after cleaning the tire I was able to use it again. The inserts - well just forget about using them again. You can use them again but the preformance is just not there and you have wasted your time and effort.
Worse case senario: you dip the tires with the wheel on them and you get an unuseable tire with a melted wheel and a piece of crap insert. Best case senario: the tire still feels the way it did before you soaked it and still preforms like a champ, the wheel is intact, and the insert doesn't look like an old donut you were saving for the track but forgot about at the big race six months again. So with that said, use an old mounted tire that you don't care about just throwing into the trash at the end on the day and run some tests.
What will you need: an old coffee can (something that the acetone wont eat through and large enough to submerge the tires), acetone (the big tin container from Home Depot), and a weight (ie a brick left over from the construction of your house). Of course you also need the mounted tires, cleaning equipment, and patience. One more thing, if you get the desired results - treat the tire with some kind of a conditioner like simple green, paragon, WD40 so the tire will be nice and supple when you get ready to use it.
Here comes the disclaimer part of the message - I have only done this on off-road tires and touring/sedan tires. The results are variant from tire and wheel compound. I have had some tires get too dry after treating them in this manner and they never recovered. Some of the wheels melted in the acetone making quite a mess but after cleaning the tire I was able to use it again. The inserts - well just forget about using them again. You can use them again but the preformance is just not there and you have wasted your time and effort.
Worse case senario: you dip the tires with the wheel on them and you get an unuseable tire with a melted wheel and a piece of crap insert. Best case senario: the tire still feels the way it did before you soaked it and still preforms like a champ, the wheel is intact, and the insert doesn't look like an old donut you were saving for the track but forgot about at the big race six months again. So with that said, use an old mounted tire that you don't care about just throwing into the trash at the end on the day and run some tests.
What will you need: an old coffee can (something that the acetone wont eat through and large enough to submerge the tires), acetone (the big tin container from Home Depot), and a weight (ie a brick left over from the construction of your house). Of course you also need the mounted tires, cleaning equipment, and patience. One more thing, if you get the desired results - treat the tire with some kind of a conditioner like simple green, paragon, WD40 so the tire will be nice and supple when you get ready to use it.
#4619
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
What I'd try first is to plonk them (careful not to splash) into boiling water for a couple minutes. CA does not tollerate differential expansion at all. I've not done this with wheels/tires but we did it a LOT with brake pads for mountain bikes. There it was rubber/aluminum, but I'd bet it would work for rubber/plastic.
#4620