288LikesTamiya mini cooper
08-13-2014, 08:37 AM
I took my car down to the track today and played with a few settings. It is now drivable again. I switched the front and rear springs around, so it had blue on the front and red on the rear, I also lowered it a little bit all round. It was instantly better. I then swapped the reds on the rear out for yellows. This was not a good move. It became more skittish. So I swapped them back around.
It was still bouncing/jumping through the corners a little bit but I broke a rim before I could do anymore testing. Next time I am going to try putting the yellows on the front.
The car is drivable again thats the main thing.
It was still bouncing/jumping through the corners a little bit but I broke a rim before I could do anymore testing. Next time I am going to try putting the yellows on the front.
The car is drivable again thats the main thing.
08-13-2014, 08:52 AM
Tech Initiate
Hell no!!!!! Those are the best ones. They made several different varieties, but they all work. When building you'll just have use more spacers under the piston. For the longer shocks I prefer to use the aluminum spacers rather than the black o-rings, but that's just a quirk of mine.
Also, the piston rods or shock shafts should be 28mm in length. I suspect that the set you have are the right length. For a long shock build to 58mm or 57.5mm. for a short shock build to 56.5 or 56. Which goes where depends a lot on the motor you're using.
Also, the piston rods or shock shafts should be 28mm in length. I suspect that the set you have are the right length. For a long shock build to 58mm or 57.5mm. for a short shock build to 56.5 or 56. Which goes where depends a lot on the motor you're using.
Thank you so much for your help. I like to learn as much as possible about each of my chassis. I have had fun building this chassis. it is a bit technical which has been fun.
08-13-2014, 10:17 AM
My TQ and 2nd place Set-up from Jackson RC TCS Race:
Front:
- Blue Spring
- 450 weight oil
- 3 hole piston
- 56.5mm length on shocks
- gear diff with 70 density putty
- Alum steering knuckles
Rear:
- yellow springs
- 450 weight oil
- 3 hole piston
- 56.5mm length on shocks
- 1.5 toe in
General:
- 20t pinion
- R1 21.5
- Just Stock Speedo
- R1 Fan (8.4v)
- 5MM ride height all around
I'll send some photos of the chassis a little later
Front:
- Blue Spring
- 450 weight oil
- 3 hole piston
- 56.5mm length on shocks
- gear diff with 70 density putty
- Alum steering knuckles
Rear:
- yellow springs
- 450 weight oil
- 3 hole piston
- 56.5mm length on shocks
- 1.5 toe in
General:
- 20t pinion
- R1 21.5
- Just Stock Speedo
- R1 Fan (8.4v)
- 5MM ride height all around
I'll send some photos of the chassis a little later
08-13-2014, 10:19 AM
M05v2
08-13-2014, 10:46 AM
OK I wanted to make sure I gave you a bit more info. I have Tamiya part number 42102. The shafts are 28mm in length. How many shims would you put under the piston? I will probably use o rings because i have a bunch. Also what weight oil and which piston would you use. Thanks
Thank you so much for your help. I like to learn as much as possible about each of my chassis. I have had fun building this chassis. it is a bit technical which has been fun.
Thank you so much for your help. I like to learn as much as possible about each of my chassis. I have had fun building this chassis. it is a bit technical which has been fun.
The aluminum spacers will give you the ability to adjust droop, which is done with shock lengths, in 0.5mm increments. Also, pack the springs that came with the shocks away somewhere that you won't be tempted to use them. They are much too stiff. The #53333 spring set is the one to go with. Put the blue ones on the rear, the reds or yellows on the front.
Use the 3 hole pistons and 40 wt Losi oil all around. If you're using Associated oil, the equivalent is 30 or 35. The Tamiya yellow oil is about the same as the Losi 40. A lot of what you do with the shocks and springs depends on which motor you're using. I struggled for a long time trying to get the 21.5 to work with a car set up for the Sivercan. the shocks were totally different.
Please remember this info is just a starting point. Incidentally, rear roll bars are beneficial 90% of the time. Front roll bars are for the advanced Mini drivers only. Another point to remember is that SWB cars set up differently from a MWB or LWB car. My suggestions are only for the 2 longer WB cars.
08-13-2014, 11:43 AM
Tech Initiate
Can only guess at the number of O rings to use under the piston, since I don't use them. If I remember correctly, they are 2mm in thickness. Can tell you this though, use only the black o-rings. The others are too soft. I'd start with 2 and measure, Usually, the easiest measurement is to measure from the start of the threads to the bottom of the shock end cap. That should be 6 to 8 mm. That will give you a shock length of 56 to 58 mm, usually.
The aluminum spacers will give you the ability to adjust droop, which is done with shock lengths, in 0.5mm increments. Also, pack the springs that came with the shocks away somewhere that you won't be tempted to use them. They are much too stiff. The #53333 spring set is the one to go with. Put the blue ones on the rear, the reds or yellows on the front.
Use the 3 hole pistons and 40 wt Losi oil all around. If you're using Associated oil, the equivalent is 30 or 35. The Tamiya yellow oil is about the same as the Losi 40. A lot of what you do with the shocks and springs depends on which motor you're using. I struggled for a long time trying to get the 21.5 to work with a car set up for the Sivercan. the shocks were totally different.
Please remember this info is just a starting point. Incidentally, rear roll bars are beneficial 90% of the time. Front roll bars are for the advanced Mini drivers only. Another point to remember is that SWB cars set up differently from a MWB or LWB car. My suggestions are only for the 2 longer WB cars.
The aluminum spacers will give you the ability to adjust droop, which is done with shock lengths, in 0.5mm increments. Also, pack the springs that came with the shocks away somewhere that you won't be tempted to use them. They are much too stiff. The #53333 spring set is the one to go with. Put the blue ones on the rear, the reds or yellows on the front.
Use the 3 hole pistons and 40 wt Losi oil all around. If you're using Associated oil, the equivalent is 30 or 35. The Tamiya yellow oil is about the same as the Losi 40. A lot of what you do with the shocks and springs depends on which motor you're using. I struggled for a long time trying to get the 21.5 to work with a car set up for the Sivercan. the shocks were totally different.
Please remember this info is just a starting point. Incidentally, rear roll bars are beneficial 90% of the time. Front roll bars are for the advanced Mini drivers only. Another point to remember is that SWB cars set up differently from a MWB or LWB car. My suggestions are only for the 2 longer WB cars.
08-13-2014, 01:49 PM
It's fairly close to what I'm currently running, but we're not running the same tire. Also, his driving skills may be better. For his sake, I hope so. My set up and motor skills keep me competitive, not the driving skills.
Your best bet would be to put his set up on your car exactly, don't leave anything out, don't add anything, then try it out to see if it fits the tire you're using. Too often, people expect that changing one or two little things will miraculously change a car from horrible to great. After you do that, the fun begins to see if you can figure it out. This, for me, is the most enjoyable part of the hobby.
08-13-2014, 04:13 PM
Tech Initiate
Thank you so much for the help. I have to order up a few parts in order to copy that setup, However its worth it. Thanks for helping me feel a little more confident in how to set it up
08-13-2014, 10:25 PM
Back in the day these used to be raced at larrys rc and it was like a destruction derby and jumping on road race. Good times good times.
08-17-2014, 08:37 PM
Well what do I think of the new MO5 V2. It is a very capable car and easy to drive fast and consistantly. I used it on the weekend and was very happy with how it performed and behaved. I did deviate from the instructions and fitted a set of TRF alloy shocks from my standard MO5, so shock length was 56.5mm. The droop screws did not touch the chassis. I also used a Top racing Sabre fwd oil gear diff in the car and built it as mwb.
Control tyres were Ride Mc38 front and Ride Sc32 rear.
Anyway have added some pictures, and very impressed with the car.
50 cal
Control tyres were Ride Mc38 front and Ride Sc32 rear.
Anyway have added some pictures, and very impressed with the car.
50 cal
08-18-2014, 07:17 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
If anyone looking for Mini stuff, I am parting ways with all mine. I have an M03 fully optioned TCS regional winning car, an M05v2 fully optioned TCS regional winning car and also an M05 NIB.
I plan on posting in the Swap/Sell section this week but wanted to let the true mini followers know first. I also have a NIB M05. Please PM in anyone is interested.
I plan on posting in the Swap/Sell section this week but wanted to let the true mini followers know first. I also have a NIB M05. Please PM in anyone is interested.
08-18-2014, 07:23 PM
Could somebody tell me which chassis of others brands exist in market instead of tamiya m05 v2?
Best regards
Best regards
08-18-2014, 10:11 PM
If you're wondering about other M chassis that aren't Tamiya, there are lots. ABC, Top Racing, Active, HPI (?), Blade racing, Ofna, etc.
It's probably best to research what you're allowed to run, if you're racing at a club. They may or may not allow other brands than Tamiya.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-18-2014 at 10:42 PM.
08-19-2014, 01:06 AM
Do you mean what other Tamiya M chassis are there? If so, the M05 and M06 are current versions, but the M03 is still easily obtainable.
If you're wondering about other M chassis that aren't Tamiya, there are lots. ABC, Top Racing, Active, HPI (?), Blade racing, Ofna, etc.
It's probably best to research what you're allowed to run, if you're racing at a club. They may or may not allow other brands than Tamiya.
If you're wondering about other M chassis that aren't Tamiya, there are lots. ABC, Top Racing, Active, HPI (?), Blade racing, Ofna, etc.
It's probably best to research what you're allowed to run, if you're racing at a club. They may or may not allow other brands than Tamiya.
In fact i just want to race 2wd mini, the rules is regardless any brand, even can convert 2wd from 4wd too.
Can i ask if ta05 m four can run with 540 motor, please?
Best regards
08-19-2014, 01:12 AM
Tech Master
Quick question, do the std tamiya metal front hubs fit the M05v2 or do you have to get the M05ra ones?