KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Bigmic
Granpa had a super suggestion that I missed
Talk with your local Mini Drivers too
Sounds like your trouble lies between spring selection and tires
as well as maybe some driving ability that needs to be honed
Like Granpa said grab a local Mini Driver at your track and pick his
(or to be politically correct seeing I recently got smoked by a Female driver)
or her brains and you will learn many tricks of the track

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Another suggestion would be to check your transmitter settings and reduce your steering rate/speed and exponential. Run negative expo if anything but spectrum and if spectrum run 20 to 30 positive.

A mini needs you to drive smoothly and not wrench the wheel or sticks left tor right.

From your limited details. Solutions:

Run a harder front spring, stand the front shocks up, use a spacer on the front hex. This will make the car more stable.

Rear run a softer rear tyre, softer rear oil, run a 5mm or 4 mm hex. Narrower rear should give more rear grip.

Because you have not included all of the data it is very hard to give you a full solution.

Ride height front and rear?

Droop or shock length etc.

Did you remove the front bumps under the front arms, these will rub and cause issues if not removed as they will drag on the ground with weight transfer. I have observed this mistake on another persons MO5 V2 and this was the issue. The instructions do not tell you to remove it, as the front arms are universal. I cut mine off and only fit left and right.

Anyway consult a mini driver at your local track as advised by others here.

I certainly do not know much but the above have worked for me in the past.

Later,

50 Cal.

filippimini

Hi all,

Is it normal for the m05 to have a bit of slop/play between the wheel hex and the bearing? Can/should this be shimmed? What size shim would be needed?

Cheers
Ryan

sosidge

They build with quite a lot of play in that area. I shim it, personally.

filippimini

Thanks sosidge.

Do you know the diameter of the shim required?

sosidge

5mm inside diameter, Tamiya and others sell packs.

Bigmic

5mm x 7mm x 0.2 or 0.1 ...

something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Team-Dur...item43cc509a20

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

For my M03 i run the stock gear diff, packed with diff putty (Hara brand). usually 70 density as they make a 45 which use for cooler weather. I always add an extra shim on one side of the internal gears to tighten the diff action. I will share photos later when I get home.

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

My TQ and 2nd place Set-up from Jackson RC TCS Race:

Front:
- Blue Spring
- 450 weight oil
- 3 hole piston
- 56.5mm length on shocks
- gear diff with 70 density putty
- Alum steering knuckles

Rear:
- yellow springs
- 450 weight oil
- 3 hole piston
- 56.5mm length on shocks
- 1.5 toe in

General:
- 20t pinion
- R1 21.5
- Just Stock Speedo
- R1 Fan (8.4v)
- 5MM ride height all around

I'll send some photos of the chassis a little later

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Does the diff putty squish out of the stock diff like blu-tac does? It's the one reason I stopped trying that method. Does it go to full lock, or does it still have some flexibility?

Boons

An age old question I'm sure but regarding a ball diff for the (old) M05, is the 3 Racing version 2 one ok? I've read the Tamiya one is ok with TRF parts.

Cheers!

Oh this is for indoor carpet by the way - I'm currently running a 3 Racing gear diff with 5k oil and I'm told a ball diff will improve lap times.....

jiml

iTrader: (3)

Can you explain the theory behind running a gear diff with putty over a ball diff? I'm curious about that.

And who painted the body? Nice!

sosidge

I sincerely doubt that a ball diff would be quicker than a gear diff but if you want to run a ball diff the Tamiya TA03 diff is the one do get. I would steer well clear of the 3Racing ball diff.

Gear diffs are advantageous because there is no slip and all the power can be put down on the ground. The difficulty with the Tamiya kit diff is getting a consistent build, but I have seen putty diffs go very quickly indeed.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

Quick question,
I realize this has probably been answered, I have read through countless posts and searched all over the web. But still, this question isn't totally answered for me. Figured some of you may know?

I have been racing my M05 in the Mini class, -we follow the TCS rules. Motors have to be stock silvercan, no funny business in terms of adjusting the timing, etc.

I am consistently getting about 3-5 place out of about 15 competitors. Which is good, but just can't seem to get into the 1st or 2nd spot. I have done endless tweaks to my car, -in the corners I am just as fast as the tops spots, yet I am dying on the long straights. In fact I would say that more than 1/2 of the field beats me on the straights (I make up the diff' in the corners and overall I think I drive a tighter line than most guys and thus run faster lap times). But the straights my car is dog slow. It is noticeably slower on the straights. I do not believe this has anything do w/ skill/driving ability -as mentioned I pull out ahead in the twists ...which I attribute to superior driving skills

I have raced for years, but am fairly new to the MINI class, -this is my first season and we are nearing the end.

Are some silvercan motors dud's? -i mean are they slower than others? It appears to me that there is about 30% in the field who have fast motors, 60% who have average motors and about 10% myself included who's motors seem slower. -ie, on the straights I am just getting passed. I have no power on the straights.

I am running a 45c Trakpower lipo,
Traxxas ESC (pulled from a slash, -brand new when I began using it)
Motor is the stock silvercan that came w/ my Mini kit.
I do have another silvercan from another application from years ago, the wires and housing are the same, yet the end cap is a different color (than the one that came in my kit). I have read that there are many different "silvercan" motors out there. Some say certain ones are more desirable. I don't want to cheat, so not really sure if I should be looking for some coveted silvercan ...unless that is what everyone is doing? Yet also which silvercan is the best is a bit murky to me.

I suspect that my speed has to do either w/ the battery, esc or motor. I suspect motor? Am I wrong.

Is most of the field cheating and doing something to their motors that I am unaware of? Is there some trick? ...I actually think that the Mini class in some ways is the most uneven, I run 17.5 on road and that really comes down to driver skill as all cars seem pretty equal (but I digress).

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

So long as you replace the diff putty every 3-4 full race sessions you're good. The only time the diff putty leaks out of there is too much diff movement, hence the reason I add an additional diff shim. The putty I'm referring to is thick enough you can roll into small balls. The instructions show rolling into 3x 10mm balls and placing it between the planetary gears. I did this the first time around the diff came too loose after a few runs. I now pack the entire diff, just enough so there is little diff action. Helps to pull the car around the corners. Not sure what blu-tac is? Its almost full lock, but there is some diff action with some efforts