288LikesTamiya mini cooper
06-09-2014, 10:50 AM
I know you asked niznai, but hope you won't mind my answering. The best bearings I've found are from Acer racing or Boca Bearings. They'll run you about $8 apiece. I've used them in the tranny, but don't recommend them for wheel bearings. The metal shielded bearings, cleaned often, are better than the sealed bearings. The seals end to swell when you clean these bearings and is especially bad with the cheap $1 bearings.
Also did a quick scan of your parts list and noted the M05 ball diff. They do work, but are fragile and require constant attention. A better option would be a TA03 ball diff or one of the after market gear diffs.
Please don't take this personally cause I mean it well. But, buying every option part before even assembling the kit is not the best way to go. However, since you seem to have almost all the options, just build the kit with the TRF shocks, metal steering and the upgraded diff. Add the other stuff as you go along. I looked at your list and didn't know what some of the stuff was or what it did. Minis are constantly being torn down and rebuilt so add the option stuff as needed and for a purpose. The very best or fastest Minis often aren't loaded down with a ton of option parts. Just those that enhance performance or increase the durability.
Also did a quick scan of your parts list and noted the M05 ball diff. They do work, but are fragile and require constant attention. A better option would be a TA03 ball diff or one of the after market gear diffs.
Please don't take this personally cause I mean it well. But, buying every option part before even assembling the kit is not the best way to go. However, since you seem to have almost all the options, just build the kit with the TRF shocks, metal steering and the upgraded diff. Add the other stuff as you go along. I looked at your list and didn't know what some of the stuff was or what it did. Minis are constantly being torn down and rebuilt so add the option stuff as needed and for a purpose. The very best or fastest Minis often aren't loaded down with a ton of option parts. Just those that enhance performance or increase the durability.
@Granpa
Thank you for sharing your opinion. I will look for Acer racing or Boca Bearings. I was of the understanding that Tamiya's ball bearings (included in M05 Gold Kits) would be similar with ceramic bearings, and I'm wrong.
As regards TA03 ball diff, I tried to seek the parts, but it has became quite rare nowadays. Thus I got no other option than to buy the M05 ball diff, which is still available in most of rakuten's sellers.
TBH, when I posted my list yesterday, I was quite worried that I would be torn apart in this thread, especially considering one of the salient principles in Mini racing is its affordability. But I'm now relieved, especially when I see your post and also provide me with some good recommendations.
I am too excited to enter into this hobby now, and have spent lots of time looking for available hops ups to be combined in a Mini.
My point was you paid over 1k for all that stuff and forgot the most important upgrade (without which it's not even worth talking about the benefits of all that stuff you paid so much for).
And since you seem to have money burning holes in your pockets, why not go the whole hog and buy some serious bearings like Kanzen? I mean what's another 100$ in a thousand?
And since you seem to have money burning holes in your pockets, why not go the whole hog and buy some serious bearings like Kanzen? I mean what's another 100$ in a thousand?
Point taken Niznai. I appreciate your recommendation, and will google it now
06-09-2014, 10:54 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Overseas though.
Edit: http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=2172
In California with fast shipping. These guys are awesome imo
Last edited by Carnage9270; 06-09-2014 at 11:19 AM.
06-09-2014, 11:03 AM
One thing I enjoy commenting on this subject lol. In general you will see the top guys winning with the best equipment. But sometimes I enjoy testing that theory out. Calgary wcics, I won with a 2+ year old Hobbyking pack, that sits in my nitro starter box for most of its life. Here it is -
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
Thats in a field of spec motors and ESC. As people around my pit table will tell you, I went from just making the A, to leading by making drastic chassis adjustments. First, i went to the M05 chassis (Thanks ERWIN!) and put in a setup that worked. In the final, the HUGE change that lit the car on fire - I changed my rear tires to OLDER harder tires to get faster rotation through the esses (Carpet track).
So while you may see some fast guys using the best most expensive packs, from my experience in ALL classes, I DO NOT subscribe to the belief that you need the best and you need to spend the most. And i know Im alone on that thinking lol. But Ive been able to prove it to myself, in TC, pans cars etc etc. Im honest with myself, that in every situation, I can see where I should have driven better, more consistent, or a setup change that would have helped.
Jim, I also quallied 2nd in WGT with the car I bought from u, using the old packs I got from you. They worked AWESOME
A bad rec in the final and I was a DNS 
Disclaimer, sure, if you find the perfect setup (which changes every run!) and PERFECT driving for the entire race (that SURE aint me!), then its time to worry about the last .01v of a pack. Until then, Ill enjoy my racing with second hand cheap equipment I just dont like to hear new racers feel they need to spend more than they actually do. IMHO, thats where we loose the new racers.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
Thats in a field of spec motors and ESC. As people around my pit table will tell you, I went from just making the A, to leading by making drastic chassis adjustments. First, i went to the M05 chassis (Thanks ERWIN!) and put in a setup that worked. In the final, the HUGE change that lit the car on fire - I changed my rear tires to OLDER harder tires to get faster rotation through the esses (Carpet track).
So while you may see some fast guys using the best most expensive packs, from my experience in ALL classes, I DO NOT subscribe to the belief that you need the best and you need to spend the most. And i know Im alone on that thinking lol. But Ive been able to prove it to myself, in TC, pans cars etc etc. Im honest with myself, that in every situation, I can see where I should have driven better, more consistent, or a setup change that would have helped.
Jim, I also quallied 2nd in WGT with the car I bought from u, using the old packs I got from you. They worked AWESOME
A bad rec in the final and I was a DNS Disclaimer, sure, if you find the perfect setup (which changes every run!) and PERFECT driving for the entire race (that SURE aint me!), then its time to worry about the last .01v of a pack. Until then, Ill enjoy my racing with second hand cheap equipment
I just dont like to hear new racers feel they need to spend more than they actually do. IMHO, thats where we loose the new racers.Don't mean spending your last dollar like our friend above is a good idea, but performance seems to correlate positively with investment in good technology.
As for newcomers to the sport, I can see the daunting choice of this that and the other confusing the hell out of people and why a gung-ho approach may be tempting especially if as our friend above you have the money. Most don't so they have to be creative and learn quickly or bail out. Let us just pray our friend won't discover the myriad of tire choice in the mini class or that he's going to find some friendly advice at the track.
Granpa has his good points about keeping the sport simple and cheap, but I think Tamiya has to run a profit ultimately like any other business. TCS may be part of their strategy, but I would hazard a guess that brings in only a small part of the profit whilst they're losing market share because of their pigheaded approach to keep designs behind other more dynamic companies that take risks and push the envelope, and out of step with what customers want.
I confess I love (some of) their top of the range products (and bought yet another TRF car recently) but the rest of their products don't really entice me save for the odd shell of some car I like for some random reason. I suspect most people vote like me with their credit card too, and Tamiya can surely see that in their quarterly reports. My point? There's no going back.
PS. By the way, the "new" arms in the new M05 kit have been available for some time already (I've had mine for over a year now) made by Ride (without the droop screw, it's true).
Last edited by niznai; 06-09-2014 at 11:19 AM.
06-09-2014, 11:08 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Question, will the beetle body fit on the M05 v2? Not sure how the wheelbase works on these cars. I've seen some people saying they are using them on an M05L but I'm not sure how that compares to the new V2.
06-09-2014, 11:10 AM
Clawhammers, you can search for "Manta Ray ball diff", it's the same as the TA03.
06-09-2014, 11:24 AM
More expensive packs exist because there will always be people out there who believe spending more = better pack. Which isn't always the case. I'm sure you already knew that in all your years of racing.
I'd say motors are more of an issue than batteries. But thats another topic entirely. Besides, brick packs will keep coming down in price and have been. I don't see that happening with stick packs. No other battery manufacturers are going to really seriously consider more stick pack offerings since just about all cars these days are designed for brick packs. The market is too small now for stick packs. Still way cheaper than people running multiple matched NIMH packs back in the day and replacing them every season. I'm sure if it were up to you, we would still be watching video on VHS tapes instead of DVD's/Blu-Rays.
I'd say motors are more of an issue than batteries. But thats another topic entirely. Besides, brick packs will keep coming down in price and have been. I don't see that happening with stick packs. No other battery manufacturers are going to really seriously consider more stick pack offerings since just about all cars these days are designed for brick packs. The market is too small now for stick packs. Still way cheaper than people running multiple matched NIMH packs back in the day and replacing them every season. I'm sure if it were up to you, we would still be watching video on VHS tapes instead of DVD's/Blu-Rays.
You actually made my point. The stick packs are a small market so there are only a few choices and the best ones are about $30. Look, I'm not non accepting of the square packs, just not pleased with what I feel will be an expensive transition. We just went through this with the transition to the 21.5 motors.
As you say, time moves on. I'm going to wait on the new kit and the square packs for a bit though.
06-09-2014, 12:19 PM
Hey, that was a pretty good dig. I laughed too. But if you don't mind, I've always preferred to keep any debates out of the personal realm. The main reason being that I don't know you or many of the people I've debated here on this forum. I'm sure many of these people are really "nice guys" and am just as positive some are total jerks. Whether I prefer VHS tapes for video viewing or my Blue Ray player in my integrated home theater system need not be part of any discussion. Also I'm old, ugly, a little on the plump side, can't carry a tune, cranky, driving ability is just so so, drive a 10 year old car that hasn't been washed in 9, but do have some really fast Minis. That's if you need more material.
You actually made my point. The stick packs are a small market so there are only a few choices and the best ones are about $30. Look, I'm not non accepting of the square packs, just not pleased with what I feel will be an expensive transition. We just went through this with the transition to the 21.5 motors.
As you say, time moves on. I'm going to wait on the new kit and the square packs for a bit though.
You actually made my point. The stick packs are a small market so there are only a few choices and the best ones are about $30. Look, I'm not non accepting of the square packs, just not pleased with what I feel will be an expensive transition. We just went through this with the transition to the 21.5 motors.
As you say, time moves on. I'm going to wait on the new kit and the square packs for a bit though.
06-09-2014, 12:49 PM
As for newcomers to the sport, I can see the daunting choice of this that and the other confusing the hell out of people and why a gung-ho approach may be tempting especially if as our friend above you have the money. Most don't so they have to be creative and learn quickly or bail out. Let us just pray our friend won't discover the myriad of tire choice in the mini class or that he's going to find some friendly advice at the track.
Granpa has his good points about keeping the sport simple and cheap, but I think Tamiya has to run a profit ultimately like any other business. TCS may be part of their strategy, but I would hazard a guess that brings in only a small part of the profit whilst they're losing market share because of their pigheaded approach to keep designs behind other more dynamic companies that take risks and push the envelope, and out of step with what customers want.
I confess I love (some of) their top of the range products (and bought yet another TRF car recently) but the rest of their products don't really entice me save for the odd shell of some car I like for some random reason. I suspect most people vote like me with their credit card too, and Tamiya can surely see that in their quarterly reports. My point? There's no going back.
I confess I love (some of) their top of the range products (and bought yet another TRF car recently) but the rest of their products don't really entice me save for the odd shell of some car I like for some random reason. I suspect most people vote like me with their credit card too, and Tamiya can surely see that in their quarterly reports. My point? There's no going back.
06-09-2014, 01:23 PM
The TT-01R kits come with a 5x8mm plate (#9808007) which are also used for it's droop screw setup. I used some spares. Now, with that said, they needed to be cut in half for the front. There is a small space for the front droop screws so pretty much anything will need to be cut. Scraped the coating from the chassis and used 5 minute epoxy to secure - works fine.
Someone posted a link for droop screw mounts - those would work, but probably will need to be cut as well.
06-09-2014, 01:35 PM
I do build some pretty nice stuff... "toot toot"..?
The TT-01R kits come with a 5x8mm plate (#9808007) which are also used for it's droop screw setup. I used some spares. Now, with that said, they needed to be cut in half for the front. There is a small space for the front droop screws so pretty much anything will need to be cut. Scraped the coating from the chassis and used 5 minute epoxy to secure - works fine.
Someone posted a link for droop screw mounts - those would work, but probably will need to be cut as well.
The TT-01R kits come with a 5x8mm plate (#9808007) which are also used for it's droop screw setup. I used some spares. Now, with that said, they needed to be cut in half for the front. There is a small space for the front droop screws so pretty much anything will need to be cut. Scraped the coating from the chassis and used 5 minute epoxy to secure - works fine.
Someone posted a link for droop screw mounts - those would work, but probably will need to be cut as well.
06-09-2014, 01:41 PM
06-09-2014, 01:45 PM
You could probably use something like these(wrong length)
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD701001
http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD701001
06-09-2014, 04:50 PM
What did I miss? Seems everyone has gone droop crazy all of a sudden lol? For a decade and a half we have all been running M chassis with no droop.
If you're dying to have it, why not just buy the new arms?
If you're dying to have it, why not just buy the new arms?
Last edited by Raman; 06-10-2014 at 08:22 AM.
06-09-2014, 06:15 PM
We have been playing with droop, by building shocks to specific lengths. The new arms droop adjustment won't work with the old chassis.
I really wish i could dig up the old droop adjusters I had for the M03. They're were, in hindsight, a brilliant piece of kit.
I really wish i could dig up the old droop adjusters I had for the M03. They're were, in hindsight, a brilliant piece of kit.
06-09-2014, 06:34 PM
And yes, I agree setup is more important (and skill even more so), but you try and convince a novice. In fact, most novices come in the sport with the false impression that technology will compensate for their skill and setup shortcomings which we all know is not true.