Tamiya mini cooper
How do I get one?
@EricP
please measure the dimension of the new battery compartment of M05 V.2
please measure the dimension of the new battery compartment of M05 V.2
Okay, to dispel a few comments about my cracked M05 chassis:
1) I did use Tamiya screws to tighten down my steering (box stock)
2) I did not over-tighten.
I fully understand that with Tamiya plastic you tighten screw until it is snug, not super tight!
3) Loctite or CA Glue: NO I did not use either as the directions did not specify to use them when putting screws in.
4) I am running stock silver can motor, I have only crashed about 6 or 7 times total/period. And those crashes were more like tumbles ...as the car rolls and not really crashes at such low speeds. I have never run brushless, etc in this car.
5) all parts/upgrades have been Tamiya approved parts (per TCS / my clubs rules).
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Here are my 3 theories on what happened:
1) a chemical reaction. The two known chemicals I used on this car were Simple Green to clean the car, but not a very liberal amount. I sprayed onto a rag then wiped down my car. I don't think any Simple Green got under the steering down into the area where the crack was. The other chemical I used was "Banana Lube":
http://www.hobbytown.com/Shop/Dan%E2...f-Banana-Lube/
It is a general purpose oil, I use it wherever there are moving parts to help reduce friction.
2) a bad run of Tamiya plastic
3) initially there was a tremendous amount of steering slop and not centering issues when I ran the stock setup. I tried adding a second rubber "o" ring inside each of the outdrives (I read this on someone's M setup as helping to get the slop out of the steering and help w/ it centering). ...This I believe could have created extra stress as the slop was removed from the steering and thus the stress placed on those two post holes -where they cracked.
I did take the o rings out though and removed the entire stock steering setup. When I did that I did not see any cracking. So not sure if the extra o rings were the issue?
I am now running the Tamiya branded aluminum steering setup, servo saver and cv steering joints.
I lean towards either stress from the O rings or a bad batch of Tamiya plastic as the leading issues that could have caused this.
My new chassis did arrive in the mail yesterday. I noticed that there are very fine mold lines running along each of the steering post holes ...so I believe that this is a spot that could be prone to crack ...as there is a manufactured mold line here.
Well, hope that I don't have to post more cracked chassis photos!
1) I did use Tamiya screws to tighten down my steering (box stock)
2) I did not over-tighten.
I fully understand that with Tamiya plastic you tighten screw until it is snug, not super tight!
3) Loctite or CA Glue: NO I did not use either as the directions did not specify to use them when putting screws in.
4) I am running stock silver can motor, I have only crashed about 6 or 7 times total/period. And those crashes were more like tumbles ...as the car rolls and not really crashes at such low speeds. I have never run brushless, etc in this car.
5) all parts/upgrades have been Tamiya approved parts (per TCS / my clubs rules).
------
Here are my 3 theories on what happened:
1) a chemical reaction. The two known chemicals I used on this car were Simple Green to clean the car, but not a very liberal amount. I sprayed onto a rag then wiped down my car. I don't think any Simple Green got under the steering down into the area where the crack was. The other chemical I used was "Banana Lube":
http://www.hobbytown.com/Shop/Dan%E2...f-Banana-Lube/
It is a general purpose oil, I use it wherever there are moving parts to help reduce friction.
2) a bad run of Tamiya plastic
3) initially there was a tremendous amount of steering slop and not centering issues when I ran the stock setup. I tried adding a second rubber "o" ring inside each of the outdrives (I read this on someone's M setup as helping to get the slop out of the steering and help w/ it centering). ...This I believe could have created extra stress as the slop was removed from the steering and thus the stress placed on those two post holes -where they cracked.
I did take the o rings out though and removed the entire stock steering setup. When I did that I did not see any cracking. So not sure if the extra o rings were the issue?
I am now running the Tamiya branded aluminum steering setup, servo saver and cv steering joints.
I lean towards either stress from the O rings or a bad batch of Tamiya plastic as the leading issues that could have caused this.
My new chassis did arrive in the mail yesterday. I noticed that there are very fine mold lines running along each of the steering post holes ...so I believe that this is a spot that could be prone to crack ...as there is a manufactured mold line here.
Well, hope that I don't have to post more cracked chassis photos!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
I don't want to start
Any blasphemous rumors
But I think that Tamiya
Got a bad batch of m05 chassis
Any blasphemous rumors
But I think that Tamiya
Got a bad batch of m05 chassis
I don't want to start
Any blasphemous rumors
But I think that Tamiya
Got a bad batch of m05 chassis
Any blasphemous rumors
But I think that Tamiya
Got a bad batch of m05 chassis
BUT, I hope my new chassis is from a new batch?
The original one was purchased in about Feb' 2014, this one May 2014' ...but who knows if they are from the same batch or not.
Part number of new arms?
Wanting to finish up my TA05 M Four.
Wanting to finish up my TA05 M Four.
You'll have to wait till this kit becomes available. At least a month or so...
28x48mm-ish (note: extremely rough measurement with a ruler). Chassis will accommodate square and round battery packs. Pics to come..
Hard to say. The cracks do "appear" to be chemical related. For example, the thread lock does shatter the Tamiya plastics to a trillion pieces. We've never seen the plastic crack like that, except when it becomes brittle
Information not available at this time. Kits, let alone parts are not near available. However, by the looks of the arm with the droop screw, it may not fit w/o modification as it appears it may hit the TA05 bulkhead
Information not available at this time. Kits, let alone parts are not near available. However, by the looks of the arm with the droop screw, it may not fit w/o modification as it appears it may hit the TA05 bulkhead
Hard to say. The cracks do "appear" to be chemical related. For example, the thread lock does shatter the Tamiya plastics to a trillion pieces. We've never seen the plastic crack like that, except when it becomes brittle
Only chemicals that ever touched my car were Simple Green and Banana Lube
you say you've never seen the plastic crack like that except when it becomes brittle. What do you mean, -how does it become brittle? ...because mine became brittle
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
-problem is I did not use any thread lock.
Only chemicals that ever touched my car were Simple Green and Banana Lube
you say you've never seen the plastic crack like that except when it becomes brittle. What do you mean, -how does it become brittle? ...because mine became brittle
Only chemicals that ever touched my car were Simple Green and Banana Lube
you say you've never seen the plastic crack like that except when it becomes brittle. What do you mean, -how does it become brittle? ...because mine became brittle
and I know you said you didn't use lock tight, but something got on the plastic that it didn't like... and I highly doubt it was simple green - I've use that all over and most I've ever gotten from that is white 'stains' on some of the parts...even motor spray never did much to the plastics on my m05
what about heat from your motor?? did it ever come off crazy hot? that could weaken the plastic - but even that's a stretch
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
There are a few Japanese shops doing pre-orders, if you're really eager.
Marcos, have you seen any shots of the right side of the chassis.opposite the motor? I'm curious as to how much things got moved on that side. It appears they've just given everything a good shove to the right, doesn't it? The motor plate should prove interesting.
The droop setup is very interesting. The engineers at Tamiya deserve a pat on the back for this one. It remains to be seen how well it holds up on the track. I suspect there will be a niche market for little metal pads or covers for the point where the droop screws meet the chassis. I'm trying to figure out how they'll accommodate the droop system on the rear with the different wheelbases and the arms getting flipped over, etc.
Marcos, have you seen any shots of the right side of the chassis.opposite the motor? I'm curious as to how much things got moved on that side. It appears they've just given everything a good shove to the right, doesn't it? The motor plate should prove interesting.
The droop setup is very interesting. The engineers at Tamiya deserve a pat on the back for this one. It remains to be seen how well it holds up on the track. I suspect there will be a niche market for little metal pads or covers for the point where the droop screws meet the chassis. I'm trying to figure out how they'll accommodate the droop system on the rear with the different wheelbases and the arms getting flipped over, etc.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (18)
Jim, the rear droop portion of the arm is removable, and can be mounted either end of the rear arm.
First thing to do, glue a small metal square (copper / tin whatever) to the chassis part where the droop screw will hit. Some already do this to make their CF chassis last longer in touring, a droop screw into the plastic, I doubt it would last long.
I like the design, looking forward to getting the parts to make one up
First thing to do, glue a small metal square (copper / tin whatever) to the chassis part where the droop screw will hit. Some already do this to make their CF chassis last longer in touring, a droop screw into the plastic, I doubt it would last long.
I like the design, looking forward to getting the parts to make one up
hmm, ...yeah I know I didn't use lock tight. But yeah, it does seem that something came in contact w/ that plastic that caused it to break. ..scratching my head as to what.
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on another note, -the new photos of the M05V2 look pretty darn cool.
I do like the new droop setup as well.
It looks like all of the V2 parts are compatible w/ the V1 (M05)?
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on another note, -the new photos of the M05V2 look pretty darn cool.
I do like the new droop setup as well.
It looks like all of the V2 parts are compatible w/ the V1 (M05)?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Look closely around the molded holes. The cracks are fairly obvious if you look. Only the right hand half had them, the lefts were perfect.
That other chassis a page or so back looks like it got attacked by something chemical.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Any suggestions on how to control some of the tourque steer on the M05? I'm a new mini driver, i noticed when i accelerate hard at barely any wheel spin the car pulls a little to the right, but it tracks straight and goes straight. I even have the counter balance.
Tech Elite
You might want to check for tweak. Also check the diff. Minis don't torque steer.