bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Nice track indeed ! Too bad it's closed now !!!
Disconnect all anti roll bars and go with red front springs while slightly stiffening up the rear by screwing the shock collars, and you'll see the difference... I also run thick(80weight) oil in my tamiya shocks....

Granpa

Just out of curiosity, what rules are you using at your track. How close are they to TCS rules??? Do you use a Spec tire or is it an open tire series???? I understand from your posts that you allow "overcharging" batteries.

Parnelli

iTrader: (18)

"We all know that set ups sometimes do not transfer from track to track or driver to driver." (Granpa)

So true, I tried the hard blue springs in the rear with yellow medium springs up front yesterday. My car wanted to spin on corner entry, especially when I backed off the throttle. I went back to hard front and medium rear springs to cure the drivability issue. DP

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Just changing springs front and rear will not necessarily be the solution. Did you try changing oil in the shocks and other variables such as linkages, ride heights etc. The other big variable is the tyres we are using.

Here we can use any mini tyre which creates issues within the mini community at times. There are those that have the gun tyres and those that do not. This also means racers carry around boxes of tyres and then test to see what works at different tracks. This detracts from the class, as others just want a tyre combination that works 90% of the time. I like that at least in the US you are all having to use the Tamiya S grip and tune the car around those tyres. In thailand the control tyre is the Ride inch ups, MC38 front and SC36 rear. So I know it can be done, just no one here wants that to happen.

One change will not make a car work in isolation as the other variables need tweaking. Ride height etc all play apart. I have used both soft spring front and harder rear on certain tracks and been competitive, however a different surface and the car handles like pooh.

I have found on high grip surfaces the softer front/harder rear works well and on lower grip surfaces harder front/softer rear works better.

The other thing to consider is your steering speed on the Tx. As this can play apart in how your car works and drives.

Just my random thoughts.

Calvin.

Granpa

Yeah,it really gets crazy when one guy has an M03 and someone uses that set up on his M05. It gets worse when you put a LWB set up on a SWB. Even shock oils get screwed up cause 40 wt of one company may 25 wt for another company. Some people will post ride heights and then not tell you where they took their measurement. Someone posted he runs his front ride height at 9mm. If I measure at the low point of the front chassis, 9mm is nearly impossible. Obviously, he was measuring somewhere else, but where?

Then when you add in the fact that at some venues you can run 55mm tires with free rein on tire makes and inserts. Some, who do the TCS races have to use certain Spec tires made by Tamiya. Then there are the various makes of 60D tires.

The tracks also make things a little tricky. Typically i run at a med to low grip asphalt track that's fairly large so has a variety of corner types-----Tamiya USA track. Also run at a hi-grip indoor asphalt track which is large for an indoor track and it too has a variety of corner types. Some experience on carpet, but they were both relatively small and were more point and shoot. The end result of this was I built 3 totally different cars.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

My track runs tcs rules, but not to the point to disallow extras like ecs/lcd drives or a lightweight Car(under 1250grams).... It is rather a fun class where if you don't run a red dot monster with tc wheels, you're good to go....

Radi0Flyer

LOL. Epic.


Sean

Granpa

It seems that as long as your car is a M03,4,5,or 6 you can damn near do anything you want to it in the way of mods and run any Mini tire. That's okay, but I can see why we'll never agree on much.

Granpa

As usual, you're making perfect sense.

jha07

iTrader: (3)

Are the front C-hubs on the M03 and M05 interchangeable?
What about the steering knuckle? I know the M05 knuckle is raised where the ball stud attaches, but I think it would help the M03 reduce bump steer.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Yes. They're interchangeable. The knuckles are a little different between the two.

The only time you'll run into an issue is if you find a really old set of M03/TL01 C hubs. Those are a little bigger.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

What is so called illegal in my Car: lcd drives + tamiya 60d Tires in the rear(if it's illegal)... Wow , big deal ! We are all here to share ideas, not agree on everything.... Maybe the Acer Bearings are illegal too...lol... Just a few excuses for sour losers... In any case, I applaud my 360v2 club director for not being too tamiya like in enforcing unrealistic rules...

Carl Giordano

iTrader: (32)

Hello Bertrandsv87... hopefully 360 will open soon, but i'm heading to RC madness this weekend for the January Jam... if you haven't tried the stock tamiya universals for the the mini you should. I'd have my m05 and m03 both set with all tamiya parts to comply with TCS rules and they work great..

Also what chargers charge at 8.5volts?

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

What's up Carl... I think the I charger charges to 8.6volts but I use the Tp1430C (up to 8.48volts).
Anyways, I only run mini for fun, and won't run those strict tcs events at all. Just fun 360v2 type atmosphere... Hope they open soon too !

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

I remember joining Tamiya mini races where even the body clips had to be Tamiya else DQ.