Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Well, never got that far today. Made a mistake I haven't made for a very long time, if ever - I soldered a Dean's plug on backwards. There were two tiny mushroom clouds atop my desk this afternoon. One from a shiny new TEU-101BK ESC and the other from a Spektrum SR3100 receiver. Oops.
Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.
Jim
Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.
Jim
One other thing I found (not sure how recent it is) Tamiya released the R5 Turbo GT2 again on a 1/12 platform as they call it. I had a look at it in a shop here and it looks like a normal M05.
There are also conversions of all kinds mainly for Tamiya kits, including a TA05 to make it a mini (don't remember who makes it), and a full carbon version of the M05 made by Tech Racing. Amazing stuff in hobby shops at any rate.
I'll check again the pricing on the M Four kit.
Well, never got that far today. Made a mistake I haven't made for a very long time, if ever - I soldered a Dean's plug on backwards. There were two tiny mushroom clouds atop my desk this afternoon. One from a shiny new TEU-101BK ESC and the other from a Spektrum SR3100 receiver. Oops.
Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.
Jim
Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.
Jim
my strong point this was spot on heat shrink tube the works
Then i realised what i had done !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the cap stores engery. So does the Batt
the batt stores much more energy than the caps
if the cap worked as people seem to think, the esc would ALLWAYS draw engery from the cap 1st, making it worthless.
as far as the esc is concerned, it will ALLWAYS draw the most energy from whatever has the lowest resistance(reactance) , the keeping cap & batt voltages more or less the same , allways.
Just my theory..
the batts a constant(sorta) DC voltage source, not an AC source where caps are used to smooth out ripple from voltage drops from + to 0 to -
the batt stores much more energy than the caps
if the cap worked as people seem to think, the esc would ALLWAYS draw engery from the cap 1st, making it worthless.
as far as the esc is concerned, it will ALLWAYS draw the most energy from whatever has the lowest resistance(reactance) , the keeping cap & batt voltages more or less the same , allways.
Just my theory..
the batts a constant(sorta) DC voltage source, not an AC source where caps are used to smooth out ripple from voltage drops from + to 0 to -
These caps are banked with resistors once fully charged they throw a spike of voltage, its short, but it keeps pulsing higher voltage.
And voltage is speed
Here are some pictures
There are also different capacitors for acceleration and top speed.
TOP .15F (for top speed) <- stores more energy but delivers it slowly
Keyence Chevalier (for acceleration) <- stores less energy but delivers it fast
Both capacitors deliver energy faster than a battery. Preventing a low voltage input to the esc.
And if you combine both, then best. Just my experience.
TOP .15F (for top speed) <- stores more energy but delivers it slowly
Keyence Chevalier (for acceleration) <- stores less energy but delivers it fast
Both capacitors deliver energy faster than a battery. Preventing a low voltage input to the esc.
And if you combine both, then best. Just my experience.
Here are some Mini Mod tips to make your Mini faster:
(1) Use strapping tape to hold your batteries - no side braces
You can adjust your weight bias left to right to offset your batteries from center.
(2) Remove the two chassis braces from the chassis for more rear bite
(3) Add a small rubber band to the steering ball to steering ball to keep the arms swept back to remove play and wheel wobble
(4) Remove all transsmision ball bearing covers and grease - dry and lightly oil with a synthetic lubrucant.
(5) Add a light spray of silicon to the plastic transmission gears and then add a dry graphite powder
There's more later...
(1) Use strapping tape to hold your batteries - no side braces
You can adjust your weight bias left to right to offset your batteries from center.
(2) Remove the two chassis braces from the chassis for more rear bite
(3) Add a small rubber band to the steering ball to steering ball to keep the arms swept back to remove play and wheel wobble
(4) Remove all transsmision ball bearing covers and grease - dry and lightly oil with a synthetic lubrucant.
(5) Add a light spray of silicon to the plastic transmission gears and then add a dry graphite powder
There's more later...
if anyone is interested, im selling a new tamiya m-05 pro with lipo batt, tamiya motor and body. every thing is new and comes with extra parts from the build
text me at 201 993 5748
thanks
text me at 201 993 5748
thanks
Tech Master
iTrader: (75)
Need help. Purchasing a M06 chassis kit but have no idea on what body to get for racing? Have a M04 Miata body.... would that be legal?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Last edited by chef88; 12-18-2011 at 04:55 PM.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
The Miata shell is legal for TCS, as are the new RX7 and Alpine shells. In Tamiya's words
I really doubt tat they'd have any problem with using any Tamiya shell on any Tamiya car. They used to have a rule regarding body matching which wheels were driven, but they started releasing RWD type bodies on FWD platforms all on their own. Put an end to that rule.
Jim
Any Tamiya MINI body parts set made for the M-03, M-05, M-06 may be used on any chassis platform.
Jim
Tech Elite
Granpa
I have never had any issue with using the 3 Racing universals instead of the tamiya versions. They are both reliable and cheap. And now 3 Racing has released a sleeve for their universals which slips over the outside and eliminates the need to use a grub screw to lock the pin in place
I have never had any issue with using the 3 Racing universals instead of the tamiya versions. They are both reliable and cheap. And now 3 Racing has released a sleeve for their universals which slips over the outside and eliminates the need to use a grub screw to lock the pin in place
Finished a full day of testing with only one minor glitch which was easily correctable and was due to a misimpression of mine and was not the fault of the R1 Wurks CVD unit. The units performed beautifully all day and were perfect at the end of the day. I loved the fact there was no play in the unit and did not have to use any axle shims. I was also able to add a 1mm spacer to space out the wheel and still had full contact in the nylon on the wheel retainer nut.
So far, all the local Mini racers here at the Tamiya USA track have been impressed. I was given the units to test at their urging. What they said was " Have Granpa test them. If anyone can break them, he can". One of our local Mini gurus was convinced after seeing what I put the units thru today.
Last edited by Granpa; 12-18-2011 at 08:03 PM. Reason: deletion
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Here are some Mini Mod tips to make your Mini faster:
(1) Use strapping tape to hold your batteries - no side braces
You can adjust your weight bias left to right to offset your batteries from center.
(2) Remove the two chassis braces from the chassis for more rear bite
(3) Add a small rubber band to the steering ball to steering ball to keep the arms swept back to remove play and wheel wobble
(4) Remove all transsmision ball bearing covers and grease - dry and lightly oil with a synthetic lubrucant.
(5) Add a light spray of silicon to the plastic transmission gears and then add a dry graphite powder
There's more later...
(1) Use strapping tape to hold your batteries - no side braces
You can adjust your weight bias left to right to offset your batteries from center.
(2) Remove the two chassis braces from the chassis for more rear bite
(3) Add a small rubber band to the steering ball to steering ball to keep the arms swept back to remove play and wheel wobble
(4) Remove all transsmision ball bearing covers and grease - dry and lightly oil with a synthetic lubrucant.
(5) Add a light spray of silicon to the plastic transmission gears and then add a dry graphite powder
There's more later...
just my opinion