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Old 01-06-2011, 11:28 AM   #14086
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Using the same car, same track, same track layout, same batteries, 20 tooth pinion,and same speed controller.

Silver can temp: 140-160 degrees Ferinheit

Reddot temp: 210-260 degrees Ferinheit

I used three seperate Marabuchi's, and three Red Dot motors. Conclusion; The Red dot motors offer higher performance, but lack long term durability. Red dot motors are in the garbage (broken), Silver can Marabuchi's are installed in cars.

The results from brushless motors look alot more promising as they don't build up as much temperature under load, while providing better performance, with less fade. Still waiting to see which direction the local clubs go in.

Last edited by scribbler; 01-06-2011 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:35 AM   #14087
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It all depends on the racers at that certain track as to whether you run silver can or brushless (stockish or hotter mod) motors.

The race director/owner can say "this is how it's gonna be" but if the racers say "no it's not" then, "no it's not" will win.
Unless, of course, that owner is Tamiya.

If enough racers are playing then there is always the possibility of getting both classes going.
Usually only take 4 guys to start a class. Owners will invite an extra class every single day.

Out here, mini's only race on rare occasions anyway.

Not enough interest or not enough agreement on power combos to take it to a club track to race?

The Tamiya track is loaded with em though and they all run silver cans of all levels. It's very, very fun and no whining but they are a tight knit group of guys and run for fun and at Tamiya races.
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:43 AM   #14088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scribbler View Post
The results from brushless motors look alot more promising as they don't build up as much temperature under load, while providing better performance, with less fade. Still waiting to see which direction the local clubs go in.
If you are looking for durability testing:
http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index....1000&Itemid=73
"6 teams, 6 hours of racing, the temperature was 46 degrees Celsius at 4.30pm when it started, and 38C when it finished!!! "

At the time, this was still early in the period where we had adopted the hobbywing for our mini racing.
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:12 PM   #14089
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R3VoLuTiOn,

Hate to disappoint you but the Hobbywing systems are very much consistant across the board.

What you see on the track is the best driver wins, due to better car setup and tighter driving lines. There is also the added equation of new battery versus old, capacity, car weight etc, but those are all variables we the driver can influence.

The change from the sport tuned motor to BL system has revitalised mini here and taken one of the uncertainities away.

BTW,

Rules are rules and not everyone can run the BL system, so lets all get back to talking up our mini's.

Later,

Calvin.
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:29 PM   #14090
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Handout motors solved the red can mystery for us. Next is the gear sets lol
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:09 PM   #14091
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I curiouse about others opinions on the following...

Initially, when I started running mini's, I limited the rear shocks, so they rebounded less than the front. This made the front ride height higher than the rear. The car drove like a Cadilac, really easy to drive, really forgiving.

I then started getting more, and more into things, and set the rear ride hieght higher than the front. I think I gained a little in performance, and completely lost that Cadilac feeling.

My question being why does the majority of people set the rear ride height higher than the front? Does it translate into quicker lap times? where is the gain? Does this put more pressure on the front tires in a M03/M05 resulting in quicker excelleration?

Please let me know what you think
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:16 PM   #14092
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I would run my front end a little lower than the rear, but I would also run a small amount of lead in the rear to help stabilize things, this seemed to work real well.
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:29 PM   #14093
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That's interesting, as we have found by adding lead to the front it gives better traction. Ride height I have the arms so that they are level or tilting up a little and run the front lower than the rear.

I have TC size shocks on my MO5L which has either a 2 or 3mm internal spacer, 3 hole piston on all four corners and 40 wt oil. I use only short TRF springs and normally use either yellow/yellow or blue/yellow. I have found the car to be really well balanced and reasonably stable, unless you fit very grippy front tyres, then it all becomes a little edgy.

On my MO5M I use the m chassis TRF shocks built as per instructions and similar spring setup. I am experimenting with running a harder spring on the rear than the front, for more turn in. I never add lead to the rear of my mini, perhaps if it was an MO3 possibly, but I have found the lead better positioned in the front and putting either a gripper rear tyre on or softing the rear suspension.

BTW

I do not use 60mm tyres so my setup stuff, may not be much use for you as 55mm tyres are the choice tyre for us. Plenty of turn in, large variety and faster than larger tyres. The smaller tyre gives you overall faster lap times as you can take tighter lines without washing off speed.

I think it is something you need to experiment with and find what suits your driving style. I know I can throw my mini into a corner and know with certainity it will not traction roll, unless I have fitted the wrong tyres. I have also found the zero degree rear hubs free up the rear end and let the rear slide which can make the car faster. The zero hubs also give a little more steering, whilst making the car a little less stable. I have been using this lately, however I did find the car harder to drive with the zero hubs on the rear when the weather cooled down.

Later,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 01-06-2011 at 03:38 PM. Reason: xtra text
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:35 PM   #14094
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Good call, I was referring back to my M03 days
It seems like form the M05 pics, that it would be more balanced. The M03 was so top heavy with that servo stacked on top of the world lol.
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:37 PM   #14095
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Who makes the 55mm tire for the minis?
Tamiya only makes the 60mm correct?
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:41 PM   #14096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cementsurfer86 View Post
Who makes the 55mm tire for the minis?
Tamiya only makes the 60mm correct?
Spice, HPI, Cross, Ride Shimizu, Solaris, Yeah Racing
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:45 PM   #14097
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cementsurfer86,

Tamiya make a 55mm tyre for the mini, but it is not that good.

Best 55mm tyres we have found are the Ride for the front and Cross for the rear. They both come with different types of compounds, so heat rating. The Cross comes with either a square edge or round edge.

I have attached a link which has the different types of tyre. Ride also do a 60mm front and rear mini tyre as does Pit Shimizu which have different compounds.

http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index....144&Itemid=147

Thanks again to the boys at RC mini net.

BTW

All of these tyres would not be TCS legal as they are not made by Tamiya. The Solaris,(come as hard, medium and soft), Pit Shimizu 60mm tyres and the larger Rides are not on the list. For inserts you can get Spice 5mm and 5.5mm fitted inserts in hard, medium and soft and Ride and Solaris do a 4.1mm insert in green, orange and yellow. This is the same as hard, medium and soft. Cross also have fitted inserts however I think by memory they are 4.3mm in size and come in differnt hardness. The Spice 5mm, 5.5mm in medium and the green ride/solaris insert are also popular.

Later,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 01-06-2011 at 03:52 PM. Reason: extra text
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:47 PM   #14098
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Thanks Cal! Nice info!
I'd love to get back into mini again sometime soon.
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:54 PM   #14099
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Yeah. I have tested a few mini tyres and inserts over the last couple of years. Lets not mention how many never get used.
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:03 PM   #14100
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I know the feeling, I have boxes and boxes of.......experiment tires gone wrong....lol
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