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Old 01-03-2011, 05:57 PM   #14026
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Originally Posted by Timbulb View Post
Myself and others have found this to be the opposite. All my fastest motors have about 2mm of brush left, and as such I save them for only the big races.
And what happens when they have less than 2mm of brush left ?

They are worn out. Which is the very point I was making.

If you run the HW 13t Combos you can have the peak performance of your Sportstuned motors all the time.

You dont need to worry about how much brush is left or saving them ... and so on because their performance is constant.

The performance of the brushed motors is not constant and they wear out at a faster rate than the brushless combos do.


There is no excuse for clubs not using HW combos in mini class unless they get turned on my measuring brushes.
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:22 PM   #14027
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tdunster,

Not everyone has made the transition to BL in mini. Different countries have different mini rules and then you have the Tamiya TCS series rules.

Most on this thread understand how much better having a sanctioned BL system for mini would be, but at this time it will not happen. The other thing is cost and having a system that is approved to use in both the Tamiya TCS series and the usual club series. Most drivers only want to buy a system once and be able to use it in other classes/events.

In Australia we have the mini rules and the 13T/ 25 or 35 Amp Ezi-run are the approved BL systems. This has ensured parity between cars, however it also comes back to car setup and driver.

We have been through the black motor saga and do not wish to go back to them again.

Enjoy your mini racing.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:48 PM   #14028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdunster View Post
And what happens when they have less than 2mm of brush left ?

They are worn out. Which is the very point I was making.

If you run the HW 13t Combos you can have the peak performance of your Sportstuned motors all the time.

You dont need to worry about how much brush is left or saving them ... and so on because their performance is constant.

The performance of the brushed motors is not constant and they wear out at a faster rate than the brushless combos do.

Holy missing the point Batman!

I wasn't starting a brushed vs BL argument here, I was only stating that silvercan performance often improves as the brushes wear. Whereas you said they decline as they wear. That's it. I wasn't responding to anything else in your post, so settle down. I'm quite aware of the benefits of BL, as are most of us.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdunster View Post
There is no excuse for clubs not using HW combos in mini class unless they get turned on my measuring brushes.
There's plenty of reasons for this. The main reason my local club hasn't gone to BL is availability of large numbers of combos. The second reason would be the regional series that consist of racers from 6 or 7 clubs, as well as non-club racers, would like to keep the mini class requirements the same. It's hard enough for one club to do a total changeover, let alone clubs from three different provinces.
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:49 PM   #14029
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
tdunster,

Not everyone has made the transition to BL in mini. Different countries have different mini rules and then you have the Tamiya TCS series rules.

Most on this thread understand how much better having a sanctioned BL system for mini would be, but at this time it will not happen. The other thing is cost and having a system that is approved to use in both the Tamiya TCS series and the usual club series. Most drivers only want to buy a system once and be able to use it in other classes/events.

In Australia we have the mini rules and the 13T/ 25 or 35 Amp Ezi-run are the approved BL systems. This has ensured parity between cars, however it also comes back to car setup and driver.

We have been through the black motor saga and do not wish to go back to them again.

Enjoy your mini racing.

Regards,

Calvin.
Makes me proud to be Australian.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:11 PM   #14030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
tdunster,

Not everyone has made the transition to BL in mini. Different countries have different mini rules and then you have the Tamiya TCS series rules.

Most on this thread understand how much better having a sanctioned BL system for mini would be, but at this time it will not happen. The other thing is cost and having a system that is approved to use in both the Tamiya TCS series and the usual club series. Most drivers only want to buy a system once and be able to use it in other classes/events.

In Australia we have the mini rules and the 13T/ 25 or 35 Amp Ezi-run are the approved BL systems. This has ensured parity between cars, however it also comes back to car setup and driver.

We have been through the black motor saga and do not wish to go back to them again.

Enjoy your mini racing.

Regards,

Calvin.
Hey Calvin or anyone else that can answer this...

So where can we get these 13T / 25 or 35 Amp Ezi-run BL systems and for how much? As a club, is there a contact you have that we can get like a club buy or something?

Thanks and any advice I read on this thread is much appreciated,

Ivan
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:14 PM   #14031
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tdunster,
Thanks for you motor input
Ordered the Ezrun 35 amp w/ the 13t motor. Great price for the combo so I figured I can't go wrong. I will be picking up a set of the Tamiya TRF shocks as well (dig the looks!). What weight oil are you guys running? I'm thinking around 40wt.
More questions are sure to follow; thanks for the help!
SoCal
Oh yes, tires. Tamiya 60D Super Grip a good way to go?
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:29 PM   #14032
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Originally Posted by Timbulb View Post
Holy missing the point Batman!

I wasn't starting a brushed vs BL argument here, I was only stating that silvercan performance often improves as the brushes wear. Whereas you said they decline as they wear. That's it. I wasn't responding to anything else in your post, so settle down. I'm quite aware of the benefits of BL, as are most of us..
I didn't take any offence from your post.

It actually made me laugh because I imagined people racing out to the secrecy of their sheds and garages measuring the brushes on their silver cans and sports tuneds
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:31 PM   #14033
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BoneCrusher,

The following two suppliers sell the systems in Australia. You can also get them from RC mart, RC market etc. We did not do a club buy, however the systems come with the motor, speed controller and setup card. Only thing most change is the punch setting and timing setting. These are normally set to max. Two links.

http://www.feralbatteries.com.au/

http://www.m-chassis.com/

This has been great for the mini scene here as before you either had motors that were fast or you got left behind. Now there is pretty much equality and as stated comes back to car setup and driver.

We have seen the numbers increase in mini by having the BL system and the MO5 because it is easier for new drivers to get to grips with. They still require work to make them fast and stable.

BTW,

Not trying to say we have it here in Australia 100% correct, but we are along way from where we were.

Later,

Calvin.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:33 PM   #14034
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Originally Posted by SoCalGuy View Post
tdunster,
Thanks for you motor input
Ordered the Ezrun 35 amp w/ the 13t motor. Great price for the combo so I figured I can't go wrong. I will be picking up a set of the Tamiya TRF shocks as well (dig the looks!). What weight oil are you guys running? I'm thinking around 40wt.
More questions are sure to follow; thanks for the help!
SoCal
Oh yes, tires. Tamiya 60D Super Grip a good way to go?
I thought you said you were from Camarillo. Also am going to assume you'll eventually wind up at the Road Runners track. I think they run hand out Silvercans at their races. If all you're interested in is parking lot bashing, That motor and esc combo is great.

S-grips are a good all around tire. I think you'll like them.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:36 PM   #14035
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Originally Posted by SoCalGuy View Post
tdunster,
Thanks for you motor input
Ordered the Ezrun 35 amp w/ the 13t motor. Great price for the combo so I figured I can't go wrong. I will be picking up a set of the Tamiya TRF shocks as well (dig the looks!). What weight oil are you guys running? I'm thinking around 40wt.
More questions are sure to follow; thanks for the help!
SoCal
Oh yes, tires. Tamiya 60D Super Grip a good way to go?
I use HPI X-pattern belted tires for bashing (HPI-4565).

I have found them to have reasonable traction and they last quite well for me at least.

In my TRF 54000 shockes I have 40wt in one set, 30wt in another, and 60wt in another set.

I cannot tell the difference

probably because the travel is so limited but it just doesn;t seem to make as much difference as it does in a Touring Car.
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:54 PM   #14036
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Default TYRES

Seeing we have no TCS comp in Australia, most do not run Tamiya tyres on asphalt. Most mini drivers run 55mm mini tyres and are faster than cars that use 60mm tyres. The reason for this, is due to being able to hold tighter lines and have better forward bite out of corners. Below is a starting combination for both asphalt and Carpet. I do not run on carpet often , so can only relate what I have used previously.

Asphalt tyres:

Ride 3035 front 5mm insert
Cross 36 Rear 5mm insert

Carpet

M Grips worn front
M grips new rear

There are other combinations and it comes back to how your car works on the track. If the rear end is sliding around then go a softer tyre or softer insert. If the front has to much traction then go a harder tyre on the front. If it is not your home track then see what the faster locals are running, provided they will share.

For shocks I use the TRF m chassis with three hole piston and 40 weight oil built as per the instructions. I use yellow and blue short TRF springs and depending on what tyres I have fitted will determine my spring setup. If I have very grippy front tyres then run a harder front spring. I also have my car slammed to the ground and run low ride height and add extra ballast to the car.

Hope that helps someone.

BTW,

I am a middle of the pack runner, here at home.

Calvin.
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Old 01-03-2011, 11:49 PM   #14037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
BoneCrusher,

The following two suppliers sell the systems in Australia. You can also get them from RC mart, RC market etc. We did not do a club buy, however the systems come with the motor, speed controller and setup card. Only thing most change is the punch setting and timing setting. These are normally set to max. Two links.

http://www.feralbatteries.com.au/

http://www.m-chassis.com/

This has been great for the mini scene here as before you either had motors that were fast or you got left behind. Now there is pretty much equality and as stated comes back to car setup and driver.

We have seen the numbers increase in mini by having the BL system and the MO5 because it is easier for new drivers to get to grips with. They still require work to make them fast and stable.

BTW,

Not trying to say we have it here in Australia 100% correct, but we are along way from where we were.

Later,

Calvin.
Thanks Calvin for the Speedo and Tires Info.

Are these the correct combo's:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-bru...r-p-27587.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/HOBBYWING-eZRun-...item415417bfed

and what is the major difference between 25A or 35A in terms of performance?

Also, do you guys find the lipo battery "C" rating makes that much of a difference? I still use some 3 year old Orion 3200 mah 20C packs that I find okay but could that be killing me in performance in silver can racing?

Thanks again,

Ivan
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:04 AM   #14038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Thanks Calvin for the Speedo and Tires Info.

Are these the correct combo's:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-bru...r-p-27587.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/HOBBYWING-eZRun-...item415417bfed

and what is the major difference between 25A or 35A in terms of performance?

Also, do you guys find the lipo battery "C" rating makes that much of a difference? I still use some 3 year old Orion 3200 mah 20C packs that I find okay but could that be killing me in performance in silver can racing?

Thanks again,

Ivan
RC Mart sell the combo under the Yeah Racing name. It is exactly the same system

BE CAREFUL ... the Ebay one looks like an illegal copy
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:11 AM   #14039
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Quote:
Are these the correct combo's:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-bru...r-p-27587.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/HOBBYWING-eZRun-...item415417bfed

and what is the major difference between 25A or 35A in terms of performance?

Also, do you guys find the lipo battery "C" rating makes that much of a difference? I still use some 3 year old Orion 3200 mah 20C packs that I find okay but could that be killing me in performance in silver can racing?
Hello Ivan,

The RC mart is the one we use, comes with the connectors on the wires on both the speed controller and motor. The ebay system I can not be 100% certain is the same. The Ezi-run can not be updated with new software, which is one of the best parts regarding the system.

The 25A/35A do not seem to make any difference on the track, although everyone will say get the bigger system. We have run both systems together and there is no difference to performance on the track in mini. The Hobbywing system is rebadged as a Venom system and as Greg said Yeah Racing. On our motors we have etching that says 13T at the end of the can.

I don't believe the different C rating makes any differnce, however a new Lipo is normally always faster than a old pack. I am using the IP4200 40 C Lipo's in my mini with the BL system and guys with older M chassis 4000 20 C batteries are just as fast.

Lipo's like Nimh's do get get old and tired, just not as quickly. I was always of the opinion that more voltage, hence current, that you can supply to a silver can the faster it might go. Previous experince with Lipo's and brushed motors is higher voltage equals more speed.

BTW

Just my opinion and experience with the Lipo's.

Amendment.

Do not go near this system that is listed on ebay. It is a copy of the original HW system. There is no brand name, no connections on the motor, blue wires for all three phases on the speed control, the program card is not correct.


Regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 01-04-2011 at 12:23 AM. Reason: revised text
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:28 AM   #14040
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I bought many of these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Car-Brushless...item255fbd225c
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC-Car-Ezrun-13T...item5196bbbc4a

They are genuine HobbyWing. And very cheap...

And your 20C batteries should be good. My own testing show me that 35C or 20C makes no difference.
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