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Old 12-26-2010, 08:27 PM   #13951
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So which part of the steering do I need to replace ? (Tamiya parts numbers?)

I've looked at it and it "appears" to all be in good order so I'm completely stumped.

Should I buy a completely new kit and start again ?

Because this car has never worked - it's not a matter of did work, crashed and then it stopped working. It's been crap since day one - without any crashes or bumps.

cheers and thanks for the input.
Part # 51390---- otherwise known as the "B" parts tree. Replace parts #6,7, and 10. It's usually only #7 that's tweaked, but what the hay, you've got it apart, replace 'em all. I'm almost willing to bet that #7 has a slight bend in it that you missed.

But if it's been screwed up from day one, better look in the mirror. The screw up will be staring back at ya. Some how you've managed to build in a "bind" in the steering assembly. Start unhooking links and make sure everything is nice and free. Sometimes you'll find something that just may have been over tightened. I had trouble with this on a couple of things. I replace all the Tamiya screws with button head machine screws so you can overtighten the screws on the suspension arms and wind up with a little binding. You can over tighten the short couplers on the shocks and cause the shocks to bind. That one made my car drive like crap.

However, let's assume you've done all the checks, and everything is perfect and the car is free, straight and blessed by God. I'm going to assume you checked all the bearings and they were okay. I'm also going to assume that the diff in your car was built according to the instructions in the kit and not according to some of the weird stuff you see posted.

Okay, then, dial in a minimum of 1 degree of toe out on each side. You may have to add more----just keep adding it until the car will track straight. On an 05, start out with the short new blue springs all around and 50wt oil with the 3 hole pistons.

The above will have made your car driveable provided it's a MWB or a LWB. If it's a SWB and your friends let you build it that way, you have no friends. If it's a MWB OR a LWB, it needs an exorcism. Have the exorcist (Mini guru) take a look at it. Also, try borrowing a set of tires that you know works. Good tires can transform a beast into a docile pet.

Hope that helps cause if it doesn't, you got trouble
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Old 12-26-2010, 09:28 PM   #13952
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The above will have made your car driveable provided it's a MWB or a LWB. If it's a SWB and your friends let you build it that way, you have no friends.

G'day Bob,

I am in the process of building up a MO5 short, now you are scaring me.... I obviously have no friends.

I will still keep going and if required can convert at a later stage.

Later,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 12-27-2010 at 04:24 AM. Reason: revised my dinglish
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Old 12-27-2010, 04:16 AM   #13953
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G'day Bob,

I am in the process of building up a MO5 short, now you are scaring me.... I obviously have no friends.

I will still keep going and have need be convert at a later stage.

Later,

Calvin.
Don't let em worry you Calvin, i've been running a swb m05 since they pro came out - its stable, easy to drive and faster through the twisty stufff than rivals mwb or lwb. We do run on carpet though so plenty of grip!

Paul
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Old 12-27-2010, 04:29 AM   #13954
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A new shell for my up coming MO5S. Just need to fit the rear wing. Kudos to MadMakem for the great paint job. All paint no stickers.

Calvin.
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Tamiya mini cooper-dsc05372.jpg  

Last edited by caltek1; 12-27-2010 at 04:30 AM. Reason: extra text
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Old 12-27-2010, 07:24 AM   #13955
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Don't let em worry you Calvin, i've been running a swb m05 since they pro came out - its stable, easy to drive and faster through the twisty stufff than rivals mwb or lwb. We do run on carpet though so plenty of grip!

Paul
+1
I only run short wheel base, but like Paul I only run on carpet.
In UK were we run, are only allowed to run seal can brush 20T limit motors.
I find M05pro SWB easy to drive and handles really well and thatís running at 1260g weigh.
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:02 AM   #13956
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Obviously stepped on a few toes, but where I race, we are limited to a spec tire which is basically Tamiya S-Grips with the hard foam insert. When everyone is running the same tire, it does expose the weaknesses of the SWB car. I don't believe a SWB car has won a major race out here since the 2008 TCS Nationals. Since we have had to run a spec tire, a SWB car is rare.

The short M05s I've driven or seen, including my first M05, have either been evil or just would not carry good corner speed. The only scenario I can see a SWB being competitive is on a tight, technical high grip asphalt or carpet surface.

At the risk of being flamed, I'll bet that most of the SWB advocates have never spent much time with one of the longer cars. The belief that a short car is more nimble and can turn inside one of the longer cars is just a myth. And, yes, it does take a little different set up and the adjustments are different for all three cars. The short and long cars are 180 apart on the adjustments. For example, if you want more steering you use a harder spring up front on a long as opposed to the softer spring you might go to in a short. You run harder springs in the rear of a long, and softer springs up front. The short is 180 from that. And so on and so forth.

My LWB M03 will turn with any SWB car on the tight corners and blow the SWB car of in the mid and sweeping stuff. Of course, I don't have many chances to run against a SWB car anymore. There is only one SWB car left where I run (Tamiya track at Aliso Viejo) and I can just blow it away. This particular car was an "A" main runner and is being driven by someone who's better than I am. He would just kick my butt when we both ran SWB cars.

Just one other point. I get this now "Granpa, your driving has really improved". That's BS cause I was better a few years ago, but I was using a SWB car then. I just had my 75th Birthday and at my age you really don't improve your driving skills and your car better be damned good if you want to keep up.
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Old 12-27-2010, 11:04 AM   #13957
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Sorry grandpa but can only post from my experience at our track. Swb is better here.
As soon as a Lwb car is faster I'll switch! We run open tyre so grip and corner speed isn't an issue. One sweeper and a 30 m straight - all the rest are 90/180 hairpins with lap times in the 18 sec range using 20t limit brushed motors
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Old 12-27-2010, 02:49 PM   #13958
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To me, the whole point of Mini races is to have minis: SWB Coopers
Having (in NZ) a race full of Suzuki Swifts: with 2 Coopers, takes away the spectacle of a grid full of SWB Coopers.

Its not really a MINI class if its 90% Suzuki's
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Old 12-27-2010, 05:39 PM   #13959
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1101,

Why just a grid of SWB mini's. Tamiya do make a LWB mini cooper.

We have found that by allowing other body shells and the HW BL system that more people run mini. To us the idea is to promote the class and get more participants.

I suppose if you want to raise the question concerning the mini class then Tamiya would have to be consulted because they have provided us with the other shells. Mito, Swift, Fiat etc.

Just my opinion,

Enjoy your racing.

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 12-27-2010 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 12-27-2010, 05:58 PM   #13960
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Bob,

No toes stepped on here. It is all good.

BTW

Seventy five years young. I reckon its great you are still out racing enjoying yourself and sharing with others. I hope to be doing the same thing, if I last that long.

I agree with you concerning the LWB car being as nimble as a SWB provided you set the car up correctly. Mine is just as agile and can be thrown around alot.

I just decided to try something different for a while. Who knows I may end up back with a short wheel based MO3. My last one was fast and worked until I tweaked something on it. Mind you I have never run the short the MO3 mini body, have prefered to use an ABC Swift. I also have a few short wheel car bodies I want to try.

We still have a mixture of chassis types being used and the MO3 is just as competitive as the MO5. In most instances the MO3 chassis cars are winning. However for a new driver the MO5 is a more forgiving car.

Take Care,

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 12-27-2010, 07:22 PM   #13961
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Hey Calvin, I have a feeling you are really going to like the M06. Drove a friends brand new 06 today and it has a lot of potential. Here is my eval. of the car at the Tamiya track using the spec tire. It has a ton of steering and is absolutely devastating on tight 180s, plus it hauls --- out of corners which you would expect. The car tracks well and is really good on the fast, sweeping type corners. Exit on the mid speed can be a little tricky cause you have to wait a bit before you can jump on the throttle, but the acceleration keeps you up with the FWD Minis.

The weak point of this particular car was it did not like quick changes of direction. It is also a little harder to drive really quickly and was no match for my M03 LWB. However, with a little work, I think it could be a great little car. The other weak point may be it might not like to bang, but I did not want to check that out cause it was still new.

I want one now and will be sure to have one to try in a couple of months after the bank account recovers from the holidays
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Old 12-27-2010, 09:23 PM   #13962
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I have a mini M05 that is due for a fresh body and I was going to do lighting this time. I am considering upgrading it so it can keep up with my TA05v2 and TT01. I know AWD minis are frowned upon in here, but I own a real mini, so can I have a pass just this once?

If you HAD to choose a AWD mini chassis which would you choose.

Genetic, HPI Cup Racer? I will be running 3000 or 6000kv on 2s.

Apologies for straying from my pure Tamiya Roots.
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:39 PM   #13963
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Genetic is good, Cup Racer is a POS. Atomic VM II is good also but parts are a worry.Active Hobby A210 is fragile. Fujin 211 is a baby 416, but parts may be an issue there too.

Last edited by tony gray; 12-28-2010 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 12-28-2010, 01:20 AM   #13964
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I have a mini M05 that is due for a fresh body and I was going to do lighting this time. I am considering upgrading it so it can keep up with my TA05v2 and TT01. I know AWD minis are frowned upon in here, but I own a real mini, so can I have a pass just this once?

If you HAD to choose a AWD mini chassis which would you choose.

Genetic, HPI Cup Racer? I will be running 3000 or 6000kv on 2s.

Apologies for straying from my pure Tamiya Roots.
If you're in California you should be able to get parts for the Genetics, Fujin or Atomic cars. Socal has a group that runs the Genetic. Look for ABC Hobby USA / PPabalan on this site. HKS Hobby has support for the Atomic and Fujin cars. The Active A210SS car is pretty much defunct unless you want the get an OFNA JL12e which is the same as the Active A210DS. The Cup Racer needs some work/aftermarket parts to be competitive and improve its durability and even then some parts are just....not good. POS? It runs, but not raceable out of the box.
Tony G just doesn't like HPI since he wanted to switch to the Switch but found out it was not switchable.
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Old 12-28-2010, 01:30 AM   #13965
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Actually, in comparison to the Switch, the Cup Racer is the finest vehicle in the known universe.

Then again, so is a big steaming lump of p**h...
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