Originally Posted by poeee
Ok so like most people who have real (classic) Mini's, I have an M03.
I bought mine second hand years ago. First experience with 'real' RC. It hasn't been a good one so far. I have never been able to get the electrics to play right. These days not at all.
So I wanna start again. Maybe even have a go at racing if I do it right (so I wanna keep within the rules).
The rc-mini site is great. I just have a few questions.
What bearings should I get, and where should I get them? I want to change the wheel hub bearings, too.
What should I buy if I were to pull everything down and build it up from scratch again (having never done so myself)? Anything in the gearbox for eg.
I want to buy a bang for buck radio setup (wheel type). I think I should scrap what I have.
Any other tips?
Please help me get back on track!
I used to run the M-03 but recently switched to the M-05 Pro. Here's what I ran in my M-03;
• Medium chassis length
• HPI Honda Civic body (225mm WB / not TCS legal)
• Tamiya Suzuki Swift (if running TCS)
• TA03 ball diff, very tight with Loctite to prevent it from coming loose
• Tamiya alloy oil shocks w/Tamiya oil from kit (50wt?)
• Tamiya blue springs front, yellow rear (red rear depending on the track)
• Tamiya 1.5 degree blue aluminium rear carriers
• Tamiya blue aluminium front C-hubs
• M-03M plastic steering knuckles (uses 5x10 bearings)
• Heavy sway bars front & rear
• S-Grip front tires w/firm sponge inserts
• Type A slick rear tires w/firm sponge inserts
• Economy $1 Boca Bearings, seals left on
• 1.5 degrees toe out in front
The plastic steering knuckles are fine and are easily replaced in the event of a serious crash. Sometimes the alloy ones bend in a big crash and it's not easy to see which is why I used the plastic ones.
The $1 Boca bearings are great and you can't beat the price. If they get gritty from running outside, toss them and install new ones. I clean all my bearings in alcohol and after drying add one drop of bearing oil. That's all you need.
The tires play a major role in how the car handles so don't be afraid to mix and match depending on the track surface. What worked for me may not work for you so experiment. The new M-grip tires are nice too. Sometimes a little CA on the front tire sidewalls helps stop the traction roll issue.
The steering is a direct link to the servo and it helps to use the alloy steering servo mounts. This makes for a very solid ervo mount that is less likely to move in an impact. Use turnbuckles on the steering to adjust the toe-out.