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Old 12-01-2010, 05:45 AM   #13741
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Originally Posted by poeee View Post
Ok so like most people who have real (classic) Mini's, I have an M03.

I bought mine second hand years ago. First experience with 'real' RC. It hasn't been a good one so far. I have never been able to get the electrics to play right. These days not at all.

So I wanna start again. Maybe even have a go at racing if I do it right (so I wanna keep within the rules).

The rc-mini site is great. I just have a few questions.

What bearings should I get, and where should I get them? I want to change the wheel hub bearings, too.

What should I buy if I were to pull everything down and build it up from scratch again (having never done so myself)? Anything in the gearbox for eg.

I want to buy a bang for buck radio setup (wheel type). I think I should scrap what I have.

What ESC?

Any other tips?

Please help me get back on track!
I used to run the M-03 but recently switched to the M-05 Pro. Here's what I ran in my M-03;

Tamiya M-03
Medium chassis length
HPI Honda Civic body (225mm WB / not TCS legal)
Tamiya Suzuki Swift (if running TCS)
TA03 ball diff, very tight with Loctite to prevent it from coming loose
Tamiya alloy oil shocks w/Tamiya oil from kit (50wt?)
Tamiya blue springs front, yellow rear (red rear depending on the track)
Tamiya 1.5 degree blue aluminium rear carriers
Tamiya blue aluminium front C-hubs
M-03M plastic steering knuckles (uses 5x10 bearings)
Heavy sway bars front & rear
S-Grip front tires w/firm sponge inserts
Type A slick rear tires w/firm sponge inserts
Economy $1 Boca Bearings, seals left on
1.5 degrees toe out in front

The plastic steering knuckles are fine and are easily replaced in the event of a serious crash. Sometimes the alloy ones bend in a big crash and it's not easy to see which is why I used the plastic ones.

The $1 Boca bearings are great and you can't beat the price. If they get gritty from running outside, toss them and install new ones. I clean all my bearings in alcohol and after drying add one drop of bearing oil. That's all you need.

The tires play a major role in how the car handles so don't be afraid to mix and match depending on the track surface. What worked for me may not work for you so experiment. The new M-grip tires are nice too. Sometimes a little CA on the front tire sidewalls helps stop the traction roll issue.

The steering is a direct link to the servo and it helps to use the alloy steering servo mounts. This makes for a very solid ervo mount that is less likely to move in an impact. Use turnbuckles on the steering to adjust the toe-out.
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Old 12-01-2010, 05:46 AM   #13742
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G'day Bruce,

It was good to meet you at the MAsters and get driving lessons. Your car looked very good on the track and your results proved that your setup was on the money.

I will test your setup information and give you feedback on how I go.I did notice that you had a counter weight off the non motor side of the car.I will have to try adding weight to the opposite side to the motor and test. I normally run extra lead under the battery on that side of the car.

I have tried blu-tac and some other putty in a gear diff, however caused me all sorts of handling problems with the car.The car would either pull left or right and caused much heartache. I haven't tried since.

Thanks again for the tyre warmer inserts, which will be put to good use.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:55 AM   #13743
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G'day Bruce,

It was good to meet you at the MAsters and get driving lessons. Your car looked very good on the track and your results proved that your setup was on the money.

I will test your setup information and give you feedback on how I go.I did notice that you had a counter weight off the non motor side of the car.I will have to try adding weight to the opposite side to the motor and test. I normally run extra lead under the battery on that side of the car.

I have tried blu-tac and some other putty in a gear diff, however caused me all sorts of handling problems with the car.The car would either pull left or right and caused much heartache. I haven't tried since.

Thanks again for the tyre warmer inserts, which will be put to good use.

Regards,

Calvin.
Still think all this fuss about diffs is a little overdone. 2009 TCS Champ was using a shimmed gear diff. 2007 & 2008 champs ran TA03 diffs as did the 2010 Champ. The advantage to the TA03 diff is that you can get assemble it to go from nearly locked to fairly loose. Gear diffs are great, but really "tricky' to assemble correctly. However, are more maintenance free than a ball diff. It's just such a pain to put them together.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:11 PM   #13744
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I guess it doesn't matter what putty, all its doing it locking the diff.

Blue Tac, hot melt glue. I am sure other would do. Unless its some thick grease type putty.
It does not lock the diff, there is still movement from one side to the other.

Cleaning putty gives more diff action than blue tac.

More diff action makes the car smoother on power turning and is less destructive to the drive train.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:14 PM   #13745
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Still think all this fuss about diffs is a little overdone. 2009 TCS Champ was using a shimmed gear diff. 2007 & 2008 champs ran TA03 diffs as did the 2010 Champ. The advantage to the TA03 diff is that you can get assemble it to go from nearly locked to fairly loose. Gear diffs are great, but really "tricky' to assemble correctly. However, are more maintenance free than a ball diff. It's just such a pain to put them together.
with the shims are they just trying to tighten it down and get rid of the slop? What shims and how many are people using?

any tricks to opening one of these things up when they are new? I don't want to break anything about i am about to start using a flat head and a hammer
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:17 PM   #13746
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
G'day Bruce,

It was good to meet you at the MAsters and get driving lessons. Your car looked very good on the track and your results proved that your setup was on the money.

I will test your setup information and give you feedback on how I go.I did notice that you had a counter weight off the non motor side of the car.I will have to try adding weight to the opposite side to the motor and test. I normally run extra lead under the battery on that side of the car.

I have tried blu-tac and some other putty in a gear diff, however caused me all sorts of handling problems with the car.The car would either pull left or right and caused much heartache. I haven't tried since.

Thanks again for the tyre warmer inserts, which will be put to good use.

Regards,

Calvin.
I did find on the weekend that I had to run the steering links shorter on the right side to get the car to pull straight out of the corners.

Only half a turn.

Mini's are not to precise in their build in my opinnion so sometimes you must make allowances for this in setup.

As I posted earlier Durango gear diff.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:08 PM   #13747
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with the shims are they just trying to tighten it down and get rid of the slop? What shims and how many are people using?

any tricks to opening one of these things up when they are new? I don't want to break anything about i am about to start using a flat head and a hammer
There's a load of metal things stuck in the plastic. I might be wrong, but I think they call them screws

There is a special tool for loosening them too. Can't remember what that is called though... anyone?
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:10 PM   #13748
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nice so after the screws are removed im the only one having trouble separating the 2 halves?
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:31 PM   #13749
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nice so after the screws are removed im the only one having trouble separating the 2 halves?
You probably haven't removed all the screws in that case. Download a manual from one of the Tamiya sites.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:35 PM   #13750
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nice so after the screws are removed im the only one having trouble separating the 2 halves?
Is this the M-03 mini? Have you removed the bumpers and removed the steering servo? There are only 4 screws holding the rear section on and that comes off as a complete assembly. The front halves are held together with 4 screws and should come apart easily.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:36 PM   #13751
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nice so after the screws are removed im the only one having trouble separating the 2 halves?
It's easy to miss a screw somewhere. Like the one up behind the shock mount. It hides next to the body mount on the left side.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:36 PM   #13752
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after snapping the two pieces together when I built it I tried pulling it right back apart and couldnt... this was before I put screws in it... The body snaps together too, thats why they have you oil part of it? Am I really doing something that wrong?
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:50 PM   #13753
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Is this the M-03 mini? Have you removed the bumpers and removed the steering servo? There are only 4 screws holding the rear section on and that comes off as a complete assembly. The front halves are held together with 4 screws and should come apart easily.
sorry m05...
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:14 PM   #13754
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after snapping the two pieces together when I built it I tried pulling it right back apart and couldnt... this was before I put screws in it... The body snaps together too, thats why they have you oil part of it? Am I really doing something that wrong?
I guess I got lost somewhere, but are you trying to get the front chassis halves apart????? If it's an M05 and you did not debur and grease the part that fits over the rail, you really might have to take a hammer, crowbar, chisel, and a pound of sweat to get it apart. You just have to tease it apart, and you'll never maKe that mistake again. I've also seen guys try to split the chassis with the motor still in it also.

With that being said, it's easy enough. Remove the front front bumper and loosen the 4 screws on the right side of the chassis. There are two down low, 1 above the motor and 1 by the body mount. Remove the left platform for the electronics, the esc is on mine. Remove the 2 holding the back of the front chassis half. There's 1 on the bottom and another just to the inside of that weird looking hoop or support. Wait you're not done yet. Pop the steering link off the lift side and remove the screw holding the cross bar on the steering linkage. Some of the screws ae different lengths so be sure to keep them straight. If they greased the rear rail, it should slide apart.

Hope that helps.
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:10 PM   #13755
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When building M05s I take and sand all 3 main chassis pieces where they come together. I trial fit it until the pieces come apart pretty easily. Then I grease it and your set.

To take them apart if you have not done the sanding, I'd just follow Grandpas advice.
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