R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-28-2010, 02:59 PM   #13366
Tech Regular
 
tudor_47's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 345
Default

I think i read somewhere that you use 13T sensorless brushless in australia in the mini races...

wher can I get hold of such an motor? They are not in stock at rcmart.
__________________
Xray T4-14 (BLS551,4.5T/8.5T, Spectrum), Xray X10-15 (Lajf Racing widened 235 4T, IRS)
Lajf Racing P28(LiPo, spectrum), Lajf Racing P28GT (LiPo, spectrum )
Xray X1(21,5T, spectrum) Tamiya M05(tamiya ESC, silver can, spectrum)

Go 235mm with X10 widening parts from www.lajf.se Get your P28 at www.lajf.se/pshop
tudor_47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2010, 03:57 PM   #13367
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 67
Default

They are available at rcmart, click here. It's the Yeah Racing model, which is exactly the same as the hobbywing system, just a different appearance.
__________________
balance.rc.products@gmail.com
rcnutbag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2010, 04:47 PM   #13368
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 67
Default Minis and wedges...

Recently, whilst scouring the internet for info on balancing racing vehicles, I came across this article. It explains the importance of a good setup and the outcomes if a car doesn't have it.

Read through, it makes a lot of sense, and I think explains a lot of what our cars do (well, before balancing that is...!).
__________________
balance.rc.products@gmail.com
rcnutbag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2010, 05:54 PM   #13369
Tech Elite
 
mangoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,981
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

We also can use the venom combo, which is a rebadged hobbywing system, but has a green option.
__________________
Hot Bodies Cyclone!!!
www.smaracing.org
www.rchobbies.com.au - www.feralbatteries.com.au
craig mcphee ( WHERE'S MY BEER )
mangoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2010, 06:17 PM   #13370
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjspinner View Post
Granpa I made no reference to rebound in the shocks.

It is more about side to side weight transfer.

The point I was talking about was the shock length, and the effect of to much droop in the car comparative to the length of the springs.

The MO5 Pro kit has you install 6mm spacers in the shocks internaly.

As you go around the corner the inside of the car lifts and the spring becomes loose on the shock body. When the car settles back to straight the spring catches on the spring collar or the perch and the car effectivly becomes tweaked for a moment.
Sorry, equated spring preloading with rebound on the shocks. Been around Minis too long and haven't built a set of TC TRF shocks for a Mini in years with out using limiters or spacers. Since we're on that subject, I no longer measure the overall length of the shocks or worry much about how many spacers or what kind of spacers are used. The dimension that's critical is the bottom of the shock body to the top of the short coupler when the shock is fully extended. This should be 6.5-7mm. Of course this should be equal from side to side on the car, but can be used to fine tune your set up by running unequal lengths or the same lengths. Also it's a more precise measurement.

I guess what you are saying about the springs getting hung up could happen, but some of the guys posting steering troubles have been around for awhile. Only a real newbie would put the TC shocks on full length.
Granpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2010, 11:39 PM   #13371
Tech Regular
 
tudor_47's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sweden
Posts: 345
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnutbag View Post
They are available at rcmart, click here. It's the Yeah Racing model, which is exactly the same as the hobbywing system, just a different appearance.
Yes, well I was looking for a motor only... thanks!

mangoman: "We also can use the venom combo " Thanks!



On my look for the venom motor i found the aluminuium rear lower arms..
http://www.ultimatetoys.com.au/venom...g-p-16151.html

are they good? do they have mounting holes for stabilizer?

I have recently broken my rear lower arms in a rollover bounce sort of crash and I have new plastic arms on route but alu might be a way to go?
__________________
Xray T4-14 (BLS551,4.5T/8.5T, Spectrum), Xray X10-15 (Lajf Racing widened 235 4T, IRS)
Lajf Racing P28(LiPo, spectrum), Lajf Racing P28GT (LiPo, spectrum )
Xray X1(21,5T, spectrum) Tamiya M05(tamiya ESC, silver can, spectrum)

Go 235mm with X10 widening parts from www.lajf.se Get your P28 at www.lajf.se/pshop

Last edited by tudor_47; 10-29-2010 at 12:25 AM.
tudor_47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 01:05 AM   #13372
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: NZ
Posts: 674
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tudor_47 View Post
I think i read somewhere that you use 13T sensorless brushless in australia in the mini races...

wher can I get hold of such an motor? They are not in stock at rcmart.
ebay (seriously)
hobbyking had them for $29, you can get them to email when back in stock
1101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 05:01 AM   #13373
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 289
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
This should be 6.5-7mm.
Thanks for this info. I have been struggling to find the right amount of droop for too long. However, I can only use it if I have the same shocks as you. Could you give us a measurement from top shock mount center to bottom shock mount center so we can adopt this to any shock. I'm using CVA super mini shocks.

Thanks
woodys3b is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 09:59 AM   #13374
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodys3b View Post
Thanks for this info. I have been struggling to find the right amount of droop for too long. However, I can only use it if I have the same shocks as you. Could you give us a measurement from top shock mount center to bottom shock mount center so we can adopt this to any shock. I'm using CVA super mini shocks.

Thanks
With the shocks extended, the measurement was 58.5mm on both the M03 & 05. Measured from the center of each shock ball. Rediscovered why I don't use this measurement any more. It's very aboutish, if you know what I mean.

I tend to run a "little" more droop than a lot of people do and my set up on the 03 is very soft. I like the 03 to roll or heel over in the corners cause it seems to carry more corner speed that way. The 05 is still a work in progress, but the super soft set ups make the car a little inconsistent. I do like the 05 a little stiffer. This is for the Tamiya track and obviously may be different where you race.

Last edited by Granpa; 10-29-2010 at 10:01 AM. Reason: Add
Granpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 10:18 AM   #13375
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 289
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
With the shocks extended, the measurement was 58.5mm on both the M03 & 05. Measured from the center of each shock ball. Rediscovered why I don't use this measurement any more. It's very aboutish, if you know what I mean.

I tend to run a "little" more droop than a lot of people do and my set up on the 03 is very soft. I like the 03 to roll or heel over in the corners cause it seems to carry more corner speed that way. The 05 is still a work in progress, but the super soft set ups make the car a little inconsistent. I do like the 05 a little stiffer. This is for the Tamiya track and obviously may be different where you race.
Thanks Granpa. I appreciate you taking the time to measure.
woodys3b is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 12:32 PM   #13376
Tech Fanatic
 
Julius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Amsterdam Netherlands
Posts: 960
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
It can also be caused by a binding axle (either side), outdrive not seated properly in the splines (with an 03 ball diff fitted) and about 50 other reasons as well.
I noticed your hint on the TA03 diff. I did feel with the shorter spline section the outdrives would be more prone to fall out or dislodge...

I guess the o-rings in the outdrive and wheelaxle is parmount to keep the outdrive in. Any tips on the TA03 diff setup outdrive wise?

Thanks
__________________
Team Serpent, Xceed, Sanwa, LRP
Julius is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 09:37 PM   #13377
Tech Elite
 
tony gray's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,213
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Making sure the o rings are there is all we do, thats really all you need.

Yes a lot of people do have issues stripping the splines. Thats usually because the outdrives are slipping out and/or they keep hitting things!

Stay away from the walls is the best tip of all
tony gray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2010, 03:08 AM   #13378
Tech Master
 
PizzaDude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Parts Unkown
Posts: 1,015
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Stay away from the walls is the best tip of all
That's a tip Julius can't use .
He doesn't hit anything but perfect laps. Surely no walls....
PizzaDude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2010, 05:08 AM   #13379
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 237
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Revisiting the spool discussion a page back, the problems with torque steer are on a treated indoor concrete (textured) track. Pretty much the highest traction you will experience in Australia (short of racing on carpet).

Take the spool out, replace with any other kind of diff and the car is fine.
The spool drive is awesome, but a bit too hard to live with, unless you race on an outdoor track.( + they are hard on cvd)

I'm over ball diffs too, gear diff all the way
MICHAEL BROWN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2010, 06:06 AM   #13380
Tech Fanatic
 
Julius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Amsterdam Netherlands
Posts: 960
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Making sure the o rings are there is all we do, thats really all you need.

Yes a lot of people do have issues stripping the splines. Thats usually because the outdrives are slipping out and/or they keep hitting things!

Stay away from the walls is the best tip of all
So i assume you mean using o rings in the outdrives only or do you add one in the wheelaxle? Any different when using universals?

I do my best to stay away from the walls... But sometimes the silvercan power just is too much
__________________
Team Serpent, Xceed, Sanwa, LRP
Julius is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tamiya Mini Cooper M-03L Hop-ups mini71 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 05-04-2016 11:07 AM
Tamiya Mini Cooper mach51 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 10 09-02-2011 12:08 AM
FS:TAMIYA Mini Cooper, TA 04S rthmotorsports R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 10-20-2007 09:37 PM
Tamiya 415 MSX and M03 Mini Cooper F/S Racer X79 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 12-22-2006 07:38 AM
Tamiya M01,02,03, or 04 Mini Cooper ccugolf.com R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 2 12-05-2004 08:55 PM


Tags
m03, m03r ules, m05, mini, tamiya


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
PapOdie
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:25 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0