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Old 10-27-2010, 10:26 AM   #13351
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Originally Posted by RossoTorro View Post
I ordered Tamiya Pastel Grey for mine, that is the correct color.
Masked windows, don't remember if it had smoke decals for windows as i like to keep mine clear and usally cut them out.

Spray can did not have any Tamiya part number.... I got my 2 cans from ebay.
That doesn't sound right... no part number on the can? And I can't find a Pastel Grey on Tamiya's website.
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Old 10-27-2010, 01:56 PM   #13352
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Our club is looking to add a Mini Cooper spec class to our race program, can you tell me what bearings and how many of each are needed for the M05 chassis?

Thanks,
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Old 10-27-2010, 03:55 PM   #13353
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That doesn't sound right... no part number on the can? And I can't find a Pastel Grey on Tamiya's website.
Here are the cans, picture taken with Sony Ericsson X10 Mini...
No part number on top as you see.



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Old 10-27-2010, 04:29 PM   #13354
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Originally Posted by RossoTorro View Post
Here are the cans, picture taken with Sony Ericsson X10 Mini...
No part number on top as you see.



Thanks for that... found it now... limited edition #89920... not a hope in hell of me getting that in a reasonable time!
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Old 10-28-2010, 12:29 AM   #13355
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Originally Posted by Wylie27 View Post
How tight is your diff?? If the diff is like a spool it will wander down the straight and pull to one side under full power...
Really. That may explain a few things. I tried to make the diffs tight, of course they loosened right up eventually.
Doesnt seem right (to my absolutely novice setup skills), I would have thought more spool like would help keep it going in a straight line under power
????
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:02 AM   #13356
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Its not imaginery
Ive a M05 pro with steering & shock upgrade & a stock std M05 with hi-toque servo saver (& steering bearings)
The both have iffy steering: both pulled to the right under full power.
Foams on the front helped & lowering the front also helped (nether 'legal' under local rules)
More toe out made the biggest difference: made the stock M05 drivable.
The still both wander far too much.

My old M03 just worked,steering wise
How have you built your shocks?

When you lift the car off the ground, if you pull the wheels down are the shock springs able to move up and down on the shock bodies (no preload )?

If they do (springs move ) put some limiters inside the shocks to reduce the overall length of the shock, and make sure the shocks on the front are the same length and rear the same length. (front can be longer than the rear as long as both fronts are the same length and visa versa)

When put back on the car adjust the spring collars to the same length both front and rear.

Give that a go and post back.
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:28 AM   #13357
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Really. That may explain a few things. I tried to make the diffs tight, of course they loosened right up eventually.
Doesnt seem right (to my absolutely novice setup skills), I would have thought more spool like would help keep it going in a straight line under power
????
I have very tight ball diffs which do that all the time, M03 or M05. Good drive, but can be errr.... fun getting onto the power going down the straight.

I prefer modified gear diffs, but they tear the outdrives apart.
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Old 10-28-2010, 03:16 AM   #13358
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Pulling to the right might be because the left tire has more grip due to the motor being on the left.
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:43 AM   #13359
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I have run more than 5 different diffs in my MO5 and the only reasons it has not gone straight once you apply throttle is because of play in the steering, shocks to long (no pre-load on springs).

If the shocks are to long when you accelerate the srings lift of the spring perches and this causes an uncontrolable lift, which may vary from side to side of the car.
Also the same can happen in cornering as the car does not settle consistently as there is no pre-load on the shocks.

I am not saying you need alot of pre-load on the shocks, you just have to eliminate all the uncontrolable aspects of the suspesion travel. ie: springs floating around from to much drop.
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:54 AM   #13360
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Really. That may explain a few things. I tried to make the diffs tight, of course they loosened right up eventually.
Doesnt seem right (to my absolutely novice setup skills), I would have thought more spool like would help keep it going in a straight line under power
????
WIth a spool or the tight diff the wheels arent allowed to spin at different rates and hence the erratic turning.

The good thing about a spool is that when you get the power down the launch is phenominal.

I have found the diff needs to be tight but free. If that makes sense.. Also the smoother you get it the better.

Find the balance between tightness and free that is right for you with your driving technique.

I prefer gear diffs..
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Old 10-28-2010, 04:58 AM   #13361
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Originally Posted by bjspinner View Post
I have run more than 5 different diffs in my MO5 and the only reasons it has not gone straight once you apply throttle is because of play in the steering, shocks to long (no pre-load on springs).

If the shocks are to long when you accelerate the srings lift of the spring perches and this causes an uncontrolable lift, which may vary from side to side of the car.
Also the same can happen in cornering as the car does not settle consistently as there is no pre-load on the shocks.

I am not saying you need alot of pre-load on the shocks, you just have to eliminate all the uncontrolable aspects of the suspesion travel. ie: springs floating around from to much drop.
THe other thing to do i found is Drop it likes its hot.. 3-5 mm ground clearance. Plastic is cheap to replace
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:44 AM   #13362
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Originally Posted by bjspinner View Post
I have run more than 5 different diffs in my MO5 and the only reasons it has not gone straight once you apply throttle is because of play in the steering, shocks to long (no pre-load on springs).

If the shocks are to long when you accelerate the srings lift of the spring perches and this causes an uncontrolable lift, which may vary from side to side of the car.
Also the same can happen in cornering as the car does not settle consistently as there is no pre-load on the shocks.

I am not saying you need alot of pre-load on the shocks, you just have to eliminate all the uncontrolable aspects of the suspesion travel. ie: springs floating around from to much drop.
I really think you need to rethink this. A Mini is so nose heavy that it would never lift the nose that much. Also, when you get the rearward weight transfer, you will get wheel spin. You would never get enough wt transfer to lift the springs off their perches.

Rebound in shocks can be desireable, but not for the reason you state. You build in rebound to get a quicker reacting shock on the rebound stroke of the shock. This can be used with certain set ups. Pulling to one side or the other when accelerating out of a corner could be helped with a little rebound in the shocks.

This pulling from one side or the other with an M05 has little or nothing to do with the nose lifting on acceleration. Has more to do with the diff and set up than anything else.

On a side note, I've been running a stock M05 ball diff for 6 months now and have had no reliability problems. However, I did use a little common sense and did not crank it down tight as a TA03 ball diff. Works really well and don't see much if any "diffing out".
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Old 10-28-2010, 01:13 PM   #13363
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It can also be caused by a binding axle (either side), outdrive not seated properly in the splines (with an 03 ball diff fitted) and about 50 other reasons as well.
Yet everyone is usually very quick to blame the bellcrank steering setup....

I have to say that I'm personally not a huge fan of it, but mainly because the M03 system was dead simple, and direct. Couldn't be faulted in that respect.
But the 05 system is nowhere near as bad as people have been making it out to be.

As Granpa said a few posts back, provided you're not an constant wall wacker it will actually work quite well.
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:09 PM   #13364
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The M05 is leaps ahead to an M03. Every single parte has much more thought behind it. The M03 was meant to be really cheap in production, hence the very few parts. M03, FF02, TL01 all shared the same parts. Sure there are more parts in a M05 resulting in more play but the steering geometry is so much better due to the proportional length of the steering links and the susp. arms. This is why you don't have the erratic bump steer like in the M03. Front shock angle is much better as it is more lay down wich you must have with that susp arm setup (shock mounting hole above the arm to clear the wheel) so the shoch moves in a linear stroke.
If you have torque steer in your M05 you'd have even more of that in your M03. There's (even with a mabushi) to much power for too much play in your diff (a M05 diff has less play as a M03 one) and too much weight overhang of your motor. Live with it, ride with it and get over it. These are no high quality race cars but fun bashers.
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:51 PM   #13365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
I really think you need to rethink this. A Mini is so nose heavy that it would never lift the nose that much. Also, when you get the rearward weight transfer, you will get wheel spin. You would never get enough wt transfer to lift the springs off their perches.

Rebound in shocks can be desireable, but not for the reason you state. You build in rebound to get a quicker reacting shock on the rebound stroke of the shock. This can be used with certain set ups. Pulling to one side or the other when accelerating out of a corner could be helped with a little rebound in the shocks.

This pulling from one side or the other with an M05 has little or nothing to do with the nose lifting on acceleration. Has more to do with the diff and set up than anything else.

On a side note, I've been running a stock M05 ball diff for 6 months now and have had no reliability problems. However, I did use a little common sense and did not crank it down tight as a TA03 ball diff. Works really well and don't see much if any "diffing out".
Granpa I made no reference to rebound in the shocks.

It is more about side to side weight transfer.

The point I was talking about was the shock length, and the effect of to much droop in the car comparative to the length of the springs.

The MO5 Pro kit has you install 6mm spacers in the shocks internaly.

As you go around the corner the inside of the car lifts and the spring becomes loose on the shock body. When the car settles back to straight the spring catches on the spring collar or the perch and the car effectivly becomes tweaked for a moment.
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