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Old 04-21-2010, 10:11 AM   #12106
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In my experience the Manta Ray Diff, and the TA03 diff both strip the splines out. The last one I had to replace stripped the splines off the diff and the cups. I was hoping the new M-05 diff woud address this issue, and remedy this problem.

Is tamiya's engineers going to redesign the M05 diff again, or are there remedies to make the current M05 diff work with more aggressive racing??

I like the looks of the new design, and I'm disappointed to hear that it isn't working that great.

Thanks
In 8 years of racing, I've only stripped one. The problem lies in letting the outdrives run too loose in the diff. If there is too much slop there, you will strip the splines. Disclaimer here is that I've never run the dog bones so don't know if they can be a factor.

Sometimes, the single black o-ring allows too much slop. You can cut fuel tubing and use that. Put the tubing inside a piece of brass tubing and you can cut some very precise lengths of tubing. Just let it extend past the end of the brass tubing and use a razor blade to cut off. Disadvantage here is that you do need to check and replace every so often.
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:34 AM   #12107
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ya it only the outdrive splines that are stripped not the actual diff itself.... I tightened the diff right up when I built it and then checked the other night when I took it apart and it was still nice and tight... oh and i had put extra spacer in the outdrives as i read on here that it seemed to help....and I am running the cvds as well

kinda bummed out that I spent as much on it as I did and it only essentially worked maybe half a season

oh well
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:09 PM   #12108
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any Rally fans out there?
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:07 PM   #12109
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For medium/large tracks where inside front tire lift is minimal/zero, the M05 ball diff (assembled normally, not cranked tight) works for me. It's very light.

Jilles Groskamp posted an interesting setup, gear diff with nitro cleaning gum. Diff sealed with glue (I guess to prevent gum leakage.)
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:09 AM   #12110
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
In 8 years of racing, I've only stripped one. The problem lies in letting the outdrives run too loose in the diff. If there is too much slop there, you will strip the splines. Disclaimer here is that I've never run the dog bones so don't know if they can be a factor.

Sometimes, the single black o-ring allows too much slop. You can cut fuel tubing and use that. Put the tubing inside a piece of brass tubing and you can cut some very precise lengths of tubing. Just let it extend past the end of the brass tubing and use a razor blade to cut off. Disadvantage here is that you do need to check and replace every so often.
The initial Manta ray diff stripped the splines off the diff, and the cups. I switched to the hardened diff cups, and a TA03 ball diff, and stripped the splines off of the inside of the diff, and partially off the cups. on the second TA03 ball diff I packed the inside of the splines with AW grease (Kit supplied heavy grease) and it lasted a little longer. I never thought of the tubing trick, I'll have to try that.

The surface I was running on was carpet, with the diff tightened down all the way. Used univesals (Tamiya CVD's), and I've never used the dog bones.
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Old 04-22-2010, 10:06 AM   #12111
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The initial Manta ray diff stripped the splines off the diff, and the cups. I switched to the hardened diff cups, and a TA03 ball diff, and stripped the splines off of the inside of the diff, and partially off the cups. on the second TA03 ball diff I packed the inside of the splines with AW grease (Kit supplied heavy grease) and it lasted a little longer. I never thought of the tubing trick, I'll have to try that.

The surface I was running on was carpet, with the diff tightened down all the way. Used univesals (Tamiya CVD's), and I've never used the dog bones.
Another advantage of the fuel tubing is if cut to the right length, it will reduce the preload on the springs. Something else that really reduces the wear is to use the Swing shaft protectors over the drive pins and to open up the slots on the outdrives. It's a bit of a pain to do, but it can be done with a Dremel and a cut off disc. If done correctly, there will be almost zero slop in your drive pins and the outdrives. Also, you don't have to use a new set of outdrives cause you can play with an old notched set that you were going to throw away .

The first ones I did, used a set of X-ray blades cause they were in the parts box. The "c" is a little long, so they were not a perfect fit, but they worked. Eureka, we had take off. The next set will use the Tamiya ones, part #53890, if you want to try this. BE SURE TO WEAR SOME EYE PROTECTION cause there will be a lot of metal filings in the air.

This is not an original idea of mine cause it's a copy off of Craig Richter's Mini. However, I can recognize a good idea when I see it. He's been running his for about a year with no wear and no stripped splines. It's also been cleared for TCS racing by the TCS race director. At first he said no, then changed his mind and cleared it. But as Veteran TCS racers know, that could all change tomorrow. Even then it's no big deal to switch back and forth.
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:54 PM   #12112
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try these - http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53597 - they say for the M03, but they work on both chassis
I hane them they won't fit with the ball diff.
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Old 04-22-2010, 01:02 PM   #12113
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I hane them they won't fit with the ball diff.
how is that possible? they are supposed to work with them - interesting...I'm not running the M05 ball diff, I got the TA03 diff in mine
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:01 PM   #12114
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They fit fine in my M05 with the M05 ball diff.
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Old 04-22-2010, 08:31 PM   #12115
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how is that possible? they are supposed to work with them - interesting...I'm not running the M05 ball diff, I got the TA03 diff in mine
I found that the bones where to long. With the tao3 diff do you use that pulpy that comes with the diff?
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:36 AM   #12116
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I found that the bones where to long. With the tao3 diff do you use that pulpy that comes with the diff?
The M03 universals k bojar posted fit the M05 ball diff. If you put the spring, plastic cup and nut in the wrong diff half they will stick out too far and jam the dog bone. The other side will have alot of room. Make sure the spring, cup/nut is in diff half B. This side has the slots cut deeper into it.

Sorry not sure what "pulpy" part is.
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Old 04-23-2010, 05:33 AM   #12117
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I found that the bones where to long. With the tao3 diff do you use that pulpy that comes with the diff?
what's pulpy??

I built it with AE or HPI diff grease...then tighted the diff all the way down (per Casey's suggestion) and then blue locktight on the screw to keep it from loosening up
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Old 04-23-2010, 08:28 AM   #12118
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They fit fine in my M05 with the M05 ball diff.
Doc, how are you liking th M05 ball diff???
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Old 04-23-2010, 08:49 AM   #12119
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I've been running my M05 with the ball diff for a few months and it has held up great. Still smooth and never loosens. I don't have it super tight though either.
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Old 04-23-2010, 10:33 AM   #12120
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To be honest with you, Bob, I've only run the darn thing twice & that was in practice. Built up an M05 with every available Tamiya hop-up but then got sidetracked by my buddy RayK with running the M04 instead. That didn't work out so well for me- old dog, new tricks- so I think I will be going back to my M03 for Memphis and possibly working on figuring out the M05 during the summer. But so far...feels good.
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