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Old 09-10-2003, 11:46 AM   #106
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Yup, me too aluminum shock for me. I think the mini cva's cap is too thick and compresses the spring too much. I did try both,thats why I ended up with the alum shock.Are those one ways still available? And can anyone supply the part number? Is it an important hopup?
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Old 09-10-2003, 02:16 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally posted by Difuser
Sipa the 1-way is from the old TA02-03 series. It frees the car into the turn as thee is no drag from the drivetrain along with the pull of a locked/spool front end.
This might sound like a silly question but...how is the car able to slow down for the curves with a one way diff?
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Old 09-10-2003, 02:35 PM   #108
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Default Thats the point.

You never use breaks when you run a oneway unless its an exteme emergency.I have went a whole race day with out ever hitting my breaks.This is with my regular sedan.With the mini I think it maybe overkill.I think I may try it though.
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Old 09-10-2003, 03:52 PM   #109
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Like racenut said you keep the momentum through the turn too often people use the brakes to slow for the turn which slows the car too much this just helps keep that speed along with freeing up the wheels to spin at their own rates along with not slowing the car through the turn or scrubbing speed.

Steve I had heard some rumors you guys were running them for finals and was just curious if it was true. I used to run one in the old FWD class a few years ago it was a b**** in panic stops(none) but is sure carried speed and pulls like a raped ape of the turn
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Old 09-10-2003, 04:00 PM   #110
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Default one-way

I tried the one way for a while, and it worked great for a while-- the car carried great speed through the turns-- but it seemed to bind up after a few weeks of running and would torque steer to one side on accelleration, so I gave it up. I'm pretty happy with the gear diff, but should break down and get the ball diff one of these days...
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Old 09-10-2003, 09:15 PM   #111
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Default I'm new into EP

greeting to Masters of Tamiya mini cooper out there,...

I'm a GP player, but recently I'm into this Tamiya mini cooper M03L

so the question is, does the mini cooper need to be hop-up?
or play stock would be good enough

thousand of thanks in advance
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Old 09-11-2003, 05:56 AM   #112
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It depends on what u want 2 use it for, do u want 2 be competative? Or do u want 2 just play around with it?


Difuser we didn't use any breaks at all, half of the guys had none because they had a one-way. Since the cars are going so slow, u should be barly lifting off the throttle. I was running a ball diff but i didn't use my beaks at all.


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Old 09-11-2003, 06:37 AM   #113
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RR- I think the best mod for a Mini is a ballbearing kit, I would say that's the first thing. It'll be faster and the batt will last longer.

Difuser-is the one way diff simmilar to the mechanism of a gas engine pullstarter? it has those roller bearings that lock?
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Old 09-11-2003, 06:41 AM   #114
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get a load of this race club in Japan!
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Old 09-11-2003, 06:43 AM   #115
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they're a crazy bunch!
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Old 09-11-2003, 08:18 AM   #116
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Anybody using a suzuki wagon r body or the toyota bb?
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Old 09-19-2003, 10:24 AM   #117
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Default excessive play

Does anyone shim the car to take all the play out of the suspension, axles and steering?
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Old 09-19-2003, 10:26 AM   #118
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To make the car handle well,l yes, shim the slop out, Then I space out the wheels a little with 1mm shims to widen the wheelbase.

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Old 09-19-2003, 11:08 AM   #119
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ya, me 2. i find it runs smoother after it's shimed.

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Old 09-19-2003, 02:00 PM   #120
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That's true of every Tamiya car that I have! There is only so much you can do, though. If you put shims between the pin and the wheel bearing, test the half shaft by hand to make sure it's not binding up. Also, check it again when the wheel is installed. If there is any binding, it will damage the bearing(s) so you may have to back off the wheel nut a tiny bit to eliminate the binding. If you're running bushings, you will just be slower than normal if there is binding.
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