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Old 03-10-2010, 04:25 AM   #11791
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Great!

I just so happen to have a set of front axles looking for a new home.

Thanks guys.
Andy
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Old 03-10-2010, 05:36 AM   #11792
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Question for you all.. I just started building the M05... Do the sway bars from the M03 fit?
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:04 AM   #11793
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No they don't
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Old 03-10-2010, 07:12 AM   #11794
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Question for you all.. I just started building the M05... Do the sway bars from the M03 fit?

The front yes, but not the back.
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:26 AM   #11795
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How are people liking these compared to the M03?

Thanks

Last edited by Bodywerx_rc; 03-11-2010 at 04:51 AM.
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:00 AM   #11796
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How are people liking these compared to the M03?
differant !!!!!

BUT i love it , quicker corner speed and lower C of G and whan you do alloy everything then it looks soooooo SWEEEEET
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:26 AM   #11797
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Originally Posted by Chris Furman View Post
Question for you all.. I just started building the M05... Do the sway bars from the M03 fit?
Don't waste the money. Build your car, run it and then see how you like it. The cars are so light and the suspension moves so little the bars don't seem to tweek enough to matter.
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:27 AM   #11798
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Steve Key- Shoot me an e-mail at rccardr@cox.net. Got your PM but I think maybe your e-mail addy is out of date. Unless you got my response and are ignoring it, which- given the content of your request- I sincerely doubt.

See you at Trackside in a month!
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Old 03-11-2010, 05:29 AM   #11799
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Default O-rings Inside Diff Outdrive Cups?

What are they for? Why are they there? I'm using CVD's that don't allow the dog bone to float around. The O-ring seems to be too large and it pushes the drive shaft out into the hub bearings. This seems to be putting unneeded pressure on the bearings. To make matters worse, they aren't the same on both sides. One side is tighter than the other which makes one wheel pull harder than the other. Last night at practice, I got fed up with the whole thing and just pulled the O-rings out and ran without them. Everything seemed to work fine without them. So, back to the original question. Why are they they there? Am I going to screw something up by running without them?

Thanks
Andy

Last edited by woodys3b; 03-11-2010 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:09 AM   #11800
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Quote:
rccardr Steve Key- Shoot me an e-mail at rccardr@cox.net. Got your PM but I think maybe your e-mail addy is out of date. Unless you got my response and are ignoring it, which- given the content of your request- I sincerely doubt.

See you at Trackside in a month!
Thanks for the message, you're right something must be wrong with my email, I would never ignore a good looking guy like you

I sent a new message to the e-mail address above.

See you in a month.

Thanks,
Steve
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:09 PM   #11801
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Originally Posted by woodys3b View Post
What are they for? Why are they there? I'm using CVD's that don't allow the dog bone to float around. The O-ring seems to be too large and it pushes the drive shaft out into the hub bearings. This seems to be putting unneeded pressure on the bearings. To make matters worse, they aren't the same on both sides. One side is tighter than the other which makes one wheel pull harder than the other. Last night at practice, I got fed up with the whole thing and just pulled the O-rings out and ran without them. Everything seemed to work fine without them. So, back to the original question. Why are they they there? Am I going to screw something up by running without them?

Thanks
Andy
I reckon you've answered your own question there Andy.
When using cvd's the o'rings not only bind the driveshaft but also limit the suspension movement on the right hand side.
Like you I have also removed them and run with no problems for the last 12+ months, so my assumption is they are there to act as a buffer when using the standard kit bones.

On a similar note has anyone tried these? CLICK

I've got some on the way but interested on any experiences so far. The blades look to be a good idea.

Last edited by shawnh; 03-11-2010 at 02:36 PM. Reason: I'm stupid and carn't spell :)
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:28 PM   #11802
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I use the little foams from the top of the trf dampers

they are a little more squishy than the rubber Orings
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Old 03-11-2010, 02:57 PM   #11803
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Default Ball Diffs

I run touring cars and 2wd offroad so I'm familiar with ball differentials but new to front wheel drive and from what I read you wanna 'tighten the crap' outta your mini ball diff which isn't what I'm used to doing so I was seeking some insight on ball diffs and FWD.

Also what the thoughts are on ball diffs over a gear diff in mini cooper, advantages and disadvantages of each, Thanks.
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Old 03-11-2010, 03:24 PM   #11804
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I run touring cars and 2wd offroad so I'm familiar with ball differentials but new to front wheel drive and from what I read you wanna 'tighten the crap' outta your mini ball diff which isn't what I'm used to doing so I was seeking some insight on ball diffs and FWD.

Also what the thoughts are on ball diffs over a gear diff in mini cooper, advantages and disadvantages of each, Thanks.
IMO you don't get the best diff action by "tightening the crap out your Mini ball diff". The best diffs are smooth and have a lot of drag. If you overtighten, you'll find the diff getting very "notchy". Not good.

As far as on track performance, there doesnt seem to a a SIGNIFICANT difference in properly BUILT and MAINTAINED ball diffs and gear diffs. Both work well. The difference is that a gear diff needs much more maintenance.

Lastly, do not lube the gear diff with anything other than a LIGHT application of antiwear grease. Do not stuff it with anything cause it will only work its way out a make your car a mess.
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Old 03-11-2010, 03:50 PM   #11805
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Originally Posted by woodys3b View Post
What are they for? Why are they there? I'm using CVD's that don't allow the dog bone to float around. The O-ring seems to be too large and it pushes the drive shaft out into the hub bearings. This seems to be putting unneeded pressure on the bearings. To make matters worse, they aren't the same on both sides. One side is tighter than the other which makes one wheel pull harder than the other. Last night at practice, I got fed up with the whole thing and just pulled the O-rings out and ran without them. Everything seemed to work fine without them. So, back to the original question. Why are they they there? Am I going to screw something up by running without them?

Thanks
Andy

The orings are suppose to do 2 things.

1) Push out the dogbone to hopefully prevent the end of the dogbone in the axle from slipping out when the front wheels are turned.
2) To keep the outdrives from coming out too far and disengaging the spline to the diff. You hear people say they stripped out the splines to the drive cups sometimes.

If you don't have to adhere to TCS rules you can use nitro fuel tubing and cut a slice to replace the oring. These are softer and you can adjust the thickness to what you need. Use the stick part of a cotton swab (Q tip) inserted in the tubing to support it while you slice the tubing otherwise it will be hard to get an even cut when the tube deforms. Otherwise, as was mentioned the red foam things for the shocks will also work because they are more compressible.
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