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Old 03-08-2010, 05:25 PM   #11776
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
well after TQing at the weekend with my M05 and winning both races by about a lap on 2nd place i thought a re-build was in order before the marathon that is our 6 Heures Du Tynaarlo
Congrats Phil on your first place! The car looks good. You're running the short, 210mm, wheelbase, correct?
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:05 PM   #11777
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I just finished my M05 build. I painted two bodies - Mini Cooper(original) and Suzuki Swift. I did a search of this thread, but could not find the answer to the following question.

What chassis length is most competitive for the M05 - S - M - L ? I'm looking to Race TCS for the first time this year in the mini class.

If you were going to race a mini, what chassis length would you Use and Why?
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:04 PM   #11778
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The Mini's are already a little unstable---longer wheelbase will make that less of a problem> I ran my MO5 this past weekend with the Swift body--220 wheelbase--TQ'D and won the race by two laps.
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:06 AM   #11779
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The Mini's are already a little unstable---longer wheelbase will make that less of a problem> I ran my MO5 this past weekend with the Swift body--220 wheelbase--TQ'D and won the race by two laps.
FYI
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I have to disagree with that statement a little , my mini is planted , quicker to change direction than the swift/500's

I think it is all about how you drive if you like a more dosile/stable car use the longer chassis , if you want a reactive car use the short chassis

No one in my club can believe how well my M05 is , now quicker than my M03 was
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Old 03-09-2010, 04:12 AM   #11780
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Received my shipment from RC-Mart last evening and went to work installing some blue bits. The Tamiya steering upgrade (all three parts) are a work of art. They tighten up the steering slop about 90% I'd say. Expensive but very effective. I got the front steering knuckles as well and was really disappointed to find out they use 1050 bearings rather than the 1150 that come with the kit. Of course, I don't have any extra 1050s laying around so I removed the rear aluminum uprights and installed the plastic ones which gave me the bearings I needed for the front. I seem to recall reading here somewhere that the 2 degree plastic rear uprights work better than the 1.5 degree aluminum anyway. We'll see. Sure would have been nice though to be able to install everything as intended.

One last note, I also ordered the 12mm x 6mm clamp on hex wheel hubs. They are awesome as well. The reason I mention these is because I recently got a set of these from 3 Racing for my TA-05. I figured these were so simple that 3 racing couldn't possibly screw them up. Wrong. They're just crap. Just like everything else I have ever ordered from 3 Racing. I am so done with them. I know there are those of you that have had good luck with some of their stuff and that's fine. From now on, I'll pay the extra money to get a quality part the first time from Tamiya.

Last edited by woodys3b; 03-09-2010 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 03-09-2010, 04:20 AM   #11781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
well after TQing at the weekend with my M05 and winning both races by about a lap on 2nd place i thought a re-build was in order before the marathon that is our 6 Heures Du Tynaarlo

fully rebuilt and he is running
3Racing ball diff
TRF shocks (mini type) with 300 oil all round
yellow front springs
red rear springs
2mm spacer on toe tierods (toe out)
Adjustable upper arms rear
3Racing steering mechanism
3Racing battery holder
Tamiya alloy motor mount
Tamiya DF03 heat sink bars
Tamiya Alloy steering connector rod
Titanium screw set
TRF servo saver
silvercan and stock speedo
Bionic batterys stickpack lipo
10g lead inside front bumper
M grip tyres all round with cut down touringcar inserts Swift wheels
Mini body shell
Phil,

Thanks so much for sharing some setup info with the rest of us. I see so many noob requests for this kind of info that go ignored including some of my own. I've kind of gotten to the point that I just don't ask anymore. Can you share which inserts you used? Congrats on the success you are having with your M05!

Thanks
Andy
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Old 03-09-2010, 06:17 AM   #11782
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Originally Posted by woodys3b View Post
Phil,

Thanks so much for sharing some setup info with the rest of us. I see so many noob requests for this kind of info that go ignored including some of my own. I've kind of gotten to the point that I just don't ask anymore. Can you share which inserts you used? Congrats on the success you are having with your M05!

Thanks
Andy
you are welcome , we were all noobs at one stage and if i can help then i will

as for inserts they are from the Vtec30 touringcar tyres i cut them down and use them , i find they fill the tyre more and you dont get the funny wear pattern you do with the M chassis inserts
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:04 AM   #11783
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Originally Posted by Steve420 View Post
Sorry guys...got another dumb question.

What length damper comes on the M04L chassis? Would these ones made for the TT01 work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Version-2-Tamiya...item5d2840be11

But then I see these (which also reference TT01) but they are much longer

http://cgi.ebay.com/X-Spede-Tamiya-T...item563a41335f

I just want to make sure I buy the right size first time around....
Sorry to be such a bother.....but can anyone help me out with this? I want to order some parts this week and want to get the right stuff
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:25 AM   #11784
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Sorry to be such a bother.....but can anyone help me out with this? I want to order some parts this week and want to get the right stuff
these will be ok , i used the longer shocks on my M03 just added 5mm spacers under the piston inside the shock to limit down movement

you are better off with the M chassis TRF dampers these are shorter and they come with the short springs
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:52 AM   #11785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve420 View Post
Sorry to be such a bother.....but can anyone help me out with this? I want to order some parts this week and want to get the right stuff
Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
these will be ok , i used the longer shocks on my M03 just added 5mm spacers under the piston inside the shock to limit down movement

you are better off with the M chassis TRF dampers these are shorter and they come with the short springs
I use the Tamiya CVA #50746 short shocks with the included oil and they work great! Like Phil said, use the internal spacer, included with the shocks, to limit the travel both front and rear. I also use the short spring kit, blue front, yellow rears and shim accordingly. These shocks are the plastic version of the high dollar TRF shocks.
All these are avaliable from RCBoyz on ebay out of Utah. Fast shipping with great prices.
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Old 03-09-2010, 03:21 PM   #11786
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What do you use to shim the slop out of the rear axles? Part number? US source?

Thanks
Andy

Last edited by woodys3b; 03-09-2010 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:23 PM   #11787
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What do you use to shim the slop out of the rear axles? Part number? US source?

Thanks
Andy
Andy,

Caltek gave me this idea. He showed me his car and it was setup that way..

When I replaced the front axle with a Universal. Which left me the 2 wheel cups(drawing a blank on what they are called). I took the cups and put them in the rear replacing the axle things...

There is minimal slop and puts a bit of weight on the car which helped me get it over Windsors minimum weight.

Its just an idea and it has worked for me so far.. Others may have different ideas.

Jason
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:24 PM   #11788
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Originally Posted by woodys3b View Post
What do you use to shim the slop out of the rear axles? Part number? US source?

Thanks
Andy

Tamiya #53587. My LHS carries them.
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:22 PM   #11789
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Originally Posted by Wylie27 View Post
Andy,

Caltek gave me this idea. He showed me his car and it was setup that way..

When I replaced the front axle with a Universal. Which left me the 2 wheel cups(drawing a blank on what they are called). I took the cups and put them in the rear replacing the axle things...

There is minimal slop and puts a bit of weight on the car which helped me get it over Windsors minimum weight.

Its just an idea and it has worked for me so far.. Others may have different ideas.

Jason
X2! Yep, this works great in reducing slop.
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:30 PM   #11790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wylie27 View Post
Andy,

Caltek gave me this idea. He showed me his car and it was setup that way..

When I replaced the front axle with a Universal. Which left me the 2 wheel cups(drawing a blank on what they are called). I took the cups and put them in the rear replacing the axle things...

There is minimal slop and puts a bit of weight on the car which helped me get it over Windsors minimum weight.

Its just an idea and it has worked for me so far.. Others may have different ideas.

Jason
GREAT IDEA

i will try that , i use the Tamiya spacers left from my TRF416 but i think there is about 10cm's of spacers in there
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