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Old 03-05-2010, 12:10 AM   #11716
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
X-ray ones will. I used these since there were some in the spare parts box. The TC5 should work also. The Tamiya ones are slightly smaller so probably will be a much better fit.

Look, I only go thru all this hassle cause the M05 ball diff does not create any level of confidence. That little 2x25mm diff screw worries me and the outdrives seem to be very soft from the ones I've seen. Tamiya is selling them, the screw, nut and nut holder, for $6. It shouldn't cost them more than 30 cents. Somehow that just doesn't seem right. Nothing against them making a profit, but -------
The 2mm screw is what most TC cars use and they don't have any more trouble with that than with anything else. If a mod TC car can use that screw, I don't expect you would have any more trouble given you have much less power. Try it and see how you go.

I have to mention here, quite a few people at our track broke that screw in TRF cars and my impression grew that it was something to do with Tamiya and their screw/diff. They then changed it to a "normal" 2mm capscrew you can get at most screw places and problems went away. No reason to buy the Tamiya screw if you don't really like it, and I agree it's expensive for no good reason. But then again such is everything with Tamiya.

The only change is that you may have to use a hex driver to adjust the diff if you don't cut a slot in the screw head.
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:16 AM   #11717
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Not sure I follow the cutting a slot bit.
The M-05 ball diff needs a hex driver for tension. What do you gain by slotting the head for a screwdriver ?
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:42 AM   #11718
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Not sure I follow the cutting a slot bit.
The M-05 ball diff needs a hex driver for tension. What do you gain by slotting the head for a screwdriver ?
True, I keep forgetting that. In a TC car, the screw comes with a big slot which allows a long thin rod to be inserted through to lock the screw when tightening up the diff. I keep forgetting the M05 balldiff comes with a cap screw and this doesn't exactly line up with the outdrive slot so this may not work on minis.
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:49 AM   #11719
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The reason the screw works on a TC and fails on a Mini has nothing to do with the power the motor is making. In the Mini, the idea is to tighten the diff way tighter than you would in a TC to get it to act more like a limited slip diff. People also use AW grease in the diff to get the same effect. In a TC, you want the diff to be just tight enough that it doesn't slip so you tighten it till it's snug then back it off till you have the right tension on the spring.

I see no reason to cut a slot in the screw. Every one I have seen is tightened with a hex driver.

Andy
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Old 03-05-2010, 08:23 AM   #11720
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Originally Posted by woodys3b View Post
The reason the screw works on a TC and fails on a Mini has nothing to do with the power the motor is making. In the Mini, the idea is to tighten the diff way tighter than you would in a TC to get it to act more like a limited slip diff. People also use AW grease in the diff to get the same effect. In a TC, you want the diff to be just tight enough that it doesn't slip so you tighten it till it's snug then back it off till you have the right tension on the spring.

I see no reason to cut a slot in the screw. Every one I have seen is tightened with a hex driver.

Andy
The right tension on the spring depends on motor power and grip available at the wheels. The more power and more grip, the more likely the diff will slip unless is tight.

If the screw head doesn't line up with an easily accesible opening there is little reason to slot it (you could space it out if it was long enough). In a TC you actually have an access hole in some cars (Xray, latest tamiya, etc) whereas others are built such that the screw head is accesible through the outdrive slot.
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:53 AM   #11721
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Originally Posted by timmig View Post
Yeah-- I race 1/5 scale---I"ve got a couple of guys looking for cars. I don't recall what you've got. But bring your 1/12 down to Westcoast next Tuesday and we'll work on it!! I've got mine working okay--still need to make some adjustments but it's getting there.
FWIW
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Tim please check your PM thanks

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Old 03-05-2010, 11:58 AM   #11722
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I heard that there is an Suzuki swift body of an other brand then Tamiya wich fits on the M03S chassis. (rover mini cooper version short wheelbase).

Does someone know where to get it and of what brand it is?
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Old 03-05-2010, 12:34 PM   #11723
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
The right tension on the spring depends on motor power and grip available at the wheels. The more power and more grip, the more likely the diff will slip unless is tight.

Power and grip have nothing to do with overly tightening the M05 diff screw. As Woody said, its about making the diff action more like a spool, so you get better drive out of the corners.

I found a good replacement screw. Its made by Losi for their 1/18th MT. Can't remember the part #, but it is gold color(titanium coated), has a slotted head & the shank isn't threaded all the way + it comes with a heavy duty nut. Haven't been able to break that one & my diff is really tight; to the point that the thrust bearing has become. the next weakest link; broke 2 so far & looking for a better replacement
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:03 PM   #11724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjen View Post
I heard that there is an Suzuki swift body of an other brand then Tamiya wich fits on the M03S chassis. (rover mini cooper version short wheelbase).

Does someone know where to get it and of what brand it is?
Colt makes a mini Swift in the short wheelbase
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:27 PM   #11725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjen View Post
I heard that there is an Suzuki swift body of an other brand then Tamiya wich fits on the M03S chassis. (rover mini cooper version short wheelbase).

Does someone know where to get it and of what brand it is?
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Colt makes a mini Swift in the short wheelbase
And I belive RC-Mart(Dinball on ebay) has these for sale.
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Old 03-05-2010, 03:42 PM   #11726
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Mario / Woodys, I agree totally with your theories. I was trying to not flame Niznai , for once again handing out very questionable (IMO) information.

Basically you need it as tight as possible. As your torque is transmitted through only two tyres, it is critical to limit slippage.
On high grip surfaces , a dedicated spool makes my car wander too much at speed,though exit drive is awesome.

So I'm after a super tight ball diff, for max drive. I now have a Venom ball diff, which i'll look at modifying for durability and uprated clamp load.
Will post results...
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Old 03-05-2010, 06:37 PM   #11727
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Okay--- I'm trying to find Long wheelbase bodies for my new MO 5's--where is the best place to find these? Looking at Ebay---there's a lot of them out there--but shipping from overseas is expensive. Is there anyone here in the states stocking these guys?? I picked up a new MO 5 kit---but the body in it is for a short wheelbase--and I would think--longer is better if these things are a little twitchy!!
So HELP!!!! What's the best answer???
Tim
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:27 PM   #11728
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Just pick up a 06 Mini Cooper from Tamiya....thats a LWB and handles awesome!
Quote:
Originally Posted by timmig View Post
Okay--- I'm trying to find Long wheelbase bodies for my new MO 5's--where is the best place to find these? Looking at Ebay---there's a lot of them out there--but shipping from overseas is expensive. Is there anyone here in the states stocking these guys?? I picked up a new MO 5 kit---but the body in it is for a short wheelbase--and I would think--longer is better if these things are a little twitchy!!
So HELP!!!! What's the best answer???
Tim
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:05 PM   #11729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
The right tension on the spring depends on motor power and grip available at the wheels. The more power and more grip, the more likely the diff will slip unless is tight.

[...]
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetmaster View Post
Mario / Woodys, I agree totally with your theories. I was trying to not flame Niznai , for once again handing out very questionable (IMO) information.

Basically you need it as tight as possible. As your torque is transmitted through only two tyres, it is critical to limit slippage.
And how exactly, may I ask, is what I said above different to what you said?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mariob62 View Post
Power and grip have nothing to do with overly tightening the M05 diff screw. As Woody said, its about making the diff action more like a spool, so you get better drive out of the corners.

[...]
I am aware of what you're trying to achieve.

Regardless of what your reason is to tighten the diff the same laws apply and the key limiting factor to all of this is friction, be it between wheels and road or balls and ballrace. What you're trying to do is balance the grip available at the wheels against the friction generated by the tension on the spring. You can indeed tighten the screw until your diff is well and truly locked, if there is no grip at the wheels they'll just spin. If there is enough, then come first corner your wheels will fight one another and something has to give. If the diff doesn't slip, then one of the wheels will. Past that point there is nothing to achieve no matter how much you tighten the screw. And I don't think at that point you would have tightened the diff screw more than in a TC car with some real power.

But that's beside the point anyway. The idea is you can get a grade 12 M2 screw at a good nut and bolt place.
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:59 PM   #11730
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Don't get your knickers in a twist. Other people are entitled to their opinions. Some of the info you post is misleading & we don't want any noobs to Mini to go down the wrong road.
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