Hello sidecarphil I'm not sure what an xb built car is? Mine is an Early Model mo3 swift.. The kingpins are silver and much larger than the ta04 kingpins.. I'm using them with the aluminum uprights so hopefully the threads haven't loosened up on those yet. I'm gonna use some higher strength loctite.. Previously when I was running it with Nimh's it would never rattle completelyi loose. Since changing to lipo/brushless setups the runtimes are like 30 minutes plus and things that never came loose before are now rattling loose
I tried the new 3racing balldiff for M05, and as i suspected it was bad.
Tried writing review 2 times on RCMart and both times they have deleted the review. My advice is to NOT buy them, rather use TA03 balldiff or wait for new M05 Tamiya diff. The problem is thrustbearing that is way too weak and gets eaten up in less than a battery. I tried changing it to Tamiya thrustbearing but then the diffballs melted the whole blue wheel. It's badly designed and even worse built. Avoid by all things sacred!
It looks good, but it's utter crap! And since RCMart won't allow fair reviews on their site this is the only place i can think of where people can understand how bad this is!
I run my M05 with EzRun 13T and not some mega bucks brushless system.
Strange as we have not had that experience here whatsoever. Melted the blue diff gear? Sounds like you did not do it back up properly.
I agree that the diff needs to be greased before use. They simply slap the parts together but I never use anything hat is prebuilt with first checking it completely
After the thrustbearing went i put in a TA05 one as it was a straight fit, then refitted the diff into my M05 and went racing. The diff was not overtight, just tighted 'right'. I race with M03, M04, M05, FF01, TA04-R, TA05-R, TA05 IFS-R, TA05MS, F103's and CRC Gen X10. So i know how to set up a balldiff, this is the 2nd time a 3racing balldiff has done the same thing. We have tested them in M03's before, same material used and same results.
Just my .02, don't buy. Rather use TA03 or wait for Tamiya's release of new diff.
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I'm quickly learning that 3Racing stuff is garbage. Their stuff either bends or breaks in short time. I wish some other company made as much stuff for the minis as they do.
hey I new to tamiya stuff so just wondering if i wanted to switch the pinnion on my M03 if I have to use a tamiya one??? I heard they could be different (metric or something) I thought they were all just 48 pitch
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Tamiya M03L
T-Maxx, Stampede
team associated F TC4 still brushed for now
mini run 0.6 pitch (known as tamiya pitch) and only run 16 18 and 20 tooth pinion altho i have hered that 21 tooth pinion can be used but never tryed it
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mini run 0.6 pitch (known as tamiya pitch) and only run 16 18 and 20 tooth pinion altho i have hered that 21 tooth pinion can be used but never tryed it
k perfect thanks for the response... so basically tamiya parts only for pinions that would be why the used mo3 I bought has went through 2 gear sets, and the motor runs kinda louder than most
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K3 member #7.. ya that's right Dwayne! right behind ya
Venom Creeper.. hoping to get a body soon!!
Tamiya M03L
T-Maxx, Stampede
team associated F TC4 still brushed for now
I'm quickly learning that 3Racing stuff is garbage. Their stuff either bends or breaks in short time. I wish some other company made as much stuff for the minis as they do.
yeah u get what u pay for, it is cheap and looks good but unfortunatly quality is poor. for bashing around it might be fine but as ppl have realised at my club they end up buying Tamiya hopups in the end anyway.
however i have used Yeah Racing products in my F1's and they the quality is much better than 3 racing i have found. there stuff is just as cheap as 3 racing. might be worthing giving a shot of some of there products on your mini.
yeah u get what u pay for, it is cheap and looks good but unfortunatly quality is poor. for bashing around it might be fine but as ppl have realised at my club they end up buying Tamiya hopups in the end anyway.
however i have used Yeah Racing products in my F1's and they the quality is much better than 3 racing i have found. there stuff is just as cheap as 3 racing. might be worthing giving a shot of some of there products on your mini.
Tom,
actually the latest lot of 3 Racing gear has changed a lot. The quality on the new knuckles etc have vastly improved over previous stuff. The new M05 spool is very impressive.
actually the latest lot of 3 Racing gear has changed a lot. The quality on the new knuckles etc have vastly improved over previous stuff. The new M05 spool is very impressive.
ah ok, I only know of guys running the older stuff on there m03's etc. Good to hear that they have improved tho
hey I new to tamiya stuff so just wondering if i wanted to switch the pinnion on my M03 if I have to use a tamiya one??? I heard they could be different (metric or something) I thought they were all just 48 pitch
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rozzt_iwa
mini run 0.6 pitch (known as tamiya pitch) and only run 16 18 and 20 tooth pinion altho i have hered that 21 tooth pinion can be used but never tryed it
Robinson Racing Products makes a very good line of hard steel alloy pinions in 48p metric (0.6 mod) They're cheap and last a lot longer then the Tamiya ones. If your local hobby shop doesn't have them, they can order them very quickly. The appropriate part numbers would be 1116, 1118 and 1120.
Your mini will start chewing through gears when the stock pinion has worn and gotten some sharp edges. It will also make a lot of noise.
i have built it as per the instructions and i added the Adustable upper arms that wont adjust at the front because it is tight up against the ball joint's with no spacers in , and there must be 3 degees of camber wheel out at the top !!!
and the steering linkages as per kit give me a rediculous amount of toe out !! i now have 4mm gap between the 2 ball joint adjusters and now it is better
i have set it up as per my old M03 and it drives POOOOOOOOO
HELP ME PLEASE !!!!!!
i have removed the ball diff and am going back to standard and i have the TRF dampers
some one give me a set up that works PLEASE
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TRF416 World Edition |LRP SPX Stock Spec | Speed Passion 3.0 10.5 | Spektrum DX3s | LRP 5300 Lipo
M05 | TRF dampers | Yeah Racing Lipo | silver can |GM sx6 speedo
F103 15th Anniversary | 13.5 LRP | Flightmax Lipo | EZrun speedo | M body (Jordan F1 colours)
i have built it as per the instructions and i added the Adustable upper arms that wont adjust at the front because it is tight up against the ball joint's with no spacers in , and there must be 3 degees of camber wheel out at the top !!!
and the steering linkages as per kit give me a rediculous amount of toe out !! i now have 4mm gap between the 2 ball joint adjusters and now it is better
i have set it up as per my old M03 and it drives POOOOOOOOO
HELP ME PLEASE !!!!!!
i have removed the ball diff and am going back to standard and i have the TRF dampers
some one give me a set up that works PLEASE
I'm fairly new to this forum but I reckon Caltek will be along shortly with some helpful info. I'm afraid all I can say is I feel for you fella, I was in exactly the same boat with my M05 which was the same as yours - ball diff and TRF M-Chassis dampers. It was a total bitch. In the end I did manage to get a nice handling car though. How? I sold the M05 and built up a new M03R! They can be found at obscenely cheap prices now from Asia.
My own personal opinion is that Mini's are meant to be a "throw it down on the carpet and race" fun formula. Constantly chasing a setup for the M05 that made it consistent (never mind competitive, I just wanted it to go round each lap the same as the last rather than understeering one minute and oversteering the next) was too much like hard work and I was NOT having fun anymore. It was all I could do to avoid throwing the car across the hall in frustration, instead I sold it to a seasoned touring car racer who reckoned he could "sort" it. Last I heard, he had moved it on already as he couldn't stop it pulling to one side under accelaration even with a lot of counterweighting.
After spending my hard earned cash on this car I feel entitled to say it is one of Tamiya's biggest missed opportunities of recent times.
i have built it as per the instructions and i added the Adustable upper arms that wont adjust at the front because it is tight up against the ball joint's with no spacers in , and there must be 3 degees of camber wheel out at the top !!!
and the steering linkages as per kit give me a rediculous amount of toe out !! i now have 4mm gap between the 2 ball joint adjusters and now it is better
i have set it up as per my old M03 and it drives POOOOOOOOO
HELP ME PLEASE !!!!!!
i have removed the ball diff and am going back to standard and i have the TRF dampers
some one give me a set up that works PLEASE
I was under the impression that the adjustable link set was only designed for the rear of the car and wsa made available for the racers who bought the standard M05 kit.
I'm fairly new to this forum but I reckon Caltek will be along shortly with some helpful info. I'm afraid all I can say is I feel for you fella, I was in exactly the same boat with my M05 which was the same as yours - ball diff and TRF M-Chassis dampers. It was a total bitch. In the end I did manage to get a nice handling car though. How? I sold the M05 and built up a new M03R! They can be found at obscenely cheap prices now from Asia.
My own personal opinion is that Mini's are meant to be a "throw it down on the carpet and race" fun formula. Constantly chasing a setup for the M05 that made it consistent (never mind competitive, I just wanted it to go round each lap the same as the last rather than understeering one minute and oversteering the next) was too much like hard work and I was NOT having fun anymore. It was all I could do to avoid throwing the car across the hall in frustration, instead I sold it to a seasoned touring car racer who reckoned he could "sort" it. Last I heard, he had moved it on already as he couldn't stop it pulling to one side under accelaration even with a lot of counterweighting.
After spending my hard earned cash on this car I feel entitled to say it is one of Tamiya's biggest missed opportunities of recent times.
mine pulls SSSSOOOOOO badly to the left on throttle but when i cruse allong it goes loverly in a straight line
i was so tempted to throw it across the hall too , i think i will spray the body nice and leave it on the shelf and go back to me trusty old M03
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TRF416 World Edition |LRP SPX Stock Spec | Speed Passion 3.0 10.5 | Spektrum DX3s | LRP 5300 Lipo
M05 | TRF dampers | Yeah Racing Lipo | silver can |GM sx6 speedo
F103 15th Anniversary | 13.5 LRP | Flightmax Lipo | EZrun speedo | M body (Jordan F1 colours)
that would be why the used mo3 I bought has went through 2 gear sets, and the motor runs kinda louder than most
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