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Old 09-11-2009, 02:31 PM   #10126
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Mini35,

TAO3 ball diff is similar to the Manta Ray just weighs less and has a thinner gear part. It is the same as the Manta ray not adjustable from the outside. I loctite the screw before placing in the car.

tamiyarcracer does have a good point. A cheap servo and servo saver will cause much misery in mini racing. I have had a car that would not track straight at all, it came back to the servo and servo saver. I now only run fast servo's in my cars and good servo savers.

I would not give up on the MO5, I have found with the right setup the car is stable and fast.

Regards,

Calvin.
I run the car indoors on carpet, it won't see asphalt now until next summer. I've got a hi-torque servo saver in my spares stash so I'll fit that with the alloy servo horn. I kind of hoped that the kit setup would be OK for at least a few runs, maybe that was too optimistic. The servo is relatively fast and it is a metal geared unit.

I'll see how I get on over the weekend, I also forgot to mention I clipped a track marker and ripped off the left knuckle so I'm waiting on the 51393 parts tree to arrive in the mail before I can have a car with 4 wheels again.
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Old 09-11-2009, 03:01 PM   #10127
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I run the car indoors on carpet, it won't see asphalt now until next summer. I've got a hi-torque servo saver in my spares stash so I'll fit that with the alloy servo horn. I kind of hoped that the kit setup would be OK for at least a few runs, maybe that was too optimistic. The servo is relatively fast and it is a metal geared unit.

I'll see how I get on over the weekend, I also forgot to mention I clipped a track marker and ripped off the left knuckle so I'm waiting on the 51393 parts tree to arrive in the mail before I can have a car with 4 wheels again.
Mini
My MO5 works pretty good on carpet.
Here is my set up for a starting point
I'm running it as the mid length car (swift), but I don't think the short car would change too much
Gear diff, full of antiwear grease built stock but I added 1 extra .3 shim on each side between the large washer and the gear.
I am running the Aluminum shocks with 40w oil and 2 hole pistons with 1 oring under the piston and no foam above the bladder,(all 4 corners)
white spring in the front and a yellow spring in the rear
Front camber link is in the upper hole
Rear camber link is in the lower hole. But I run 2 degree of camber in the rear (I have the adjustable links)
Steering is in the forward hole in the knuckle. I have the tie rod shimmed so it is pretty flat at ride height
And I run about 2 or 3 degree of toe out
Ride height is about 4.5mm front and 5.mm rear (Keep in mind ride height is relative as with the fixed upper link it changes camber. which on a fixed link ride height is a critical componant because of this.)
So with that said if you can get the camber to about 2 degree all around that should be close.
Tires front M-grip with a hard shaped insert
Tire rear S-grip with a hard foam insert.




Mind you I hate carpet, but it felt pretty good to me, and everyone that saw it was impressed. THe only complaint I have was if you applied power too early, it would lift the inside rear wheel, and sometime traction roll. I'm going to try thicker front oil next race.

I would really give the servo a look, I have seen many people fight a steering problem cause they had plastic gear servos and they installed the wrong screw in them and they would not center cause the screw (too big) swelled the gear creating a bind.

Let me know if you have any questions. Also if you try this, let me know your thoughts.
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Old 09-11-2009, 03:17 PM   #10128
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Default New Hop-ups

Along with the new Abarth body, there are a few ohter items being released.


M-05 Aluminum Racing Steering Set
M-05 Aluminum Steering Link
M-05 Aluminum Steering Post
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Old 09-13-2009, 05:41 PM   #10129
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Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer View Post
Along with the new Abarth body, there are a few ohter items being released.


M-05 Aluminum Racing Steering Set
M-05 Aluminum Steering Link
M-05 Aluminum Steering Post
Do you have a link to these with part numbers, and release dates by chance?

Cheers
Moxy
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:03 PM   #10130
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My new fav body for M05 is the standard Fiat 500 with Suzuki rear wing.
Looks great, but will order 2x of the new Fiat Abarth!

I want the option parts from Tamiys too, but need new steering parts now.
I'm about to order 3racing steering since the standard plastic stucks!
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Old 09-13-2009, 06:45 PM   #10131
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Originally Posted by Moxy View Post
Do you have a link to these with part numbers, and release dates by chance?

Cheers
Moxy
Hey Moxy,

This is all the information I have for ya.

Tamiya New Releases, All Japan Hobby Show
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Old 09-14-2009, 01:42 AM   #10132
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is anyone running the TRF TC shocks on their mini? if so how much difference is there between the two? i know the M shocks are smaller, but is it very noticable?
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Old 09-14-2009, 02:15 AM   #10133
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I run the Tamiya 84008 black edition TRF dampers, on the front only. On the rear I use the M-chassis TRF dampers. I have run TRF 53571 touring car shocks without a problem. I can't say that I've noticed much of a difference on the track.
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Old 09-14-2009, 02:38 AM   #10134
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Should you limit the shock travel by using spacer inside the shocks since you're using the longer TC shocks? If you don't use spacer to limit shock travel wouldn't you get positive camber?
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Old 09-14-2009, 02:52 AM   #10135
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As stated you put the spacers in TC shocks in a Mini otherwise too much droop. They just dont work. You also need to run the shorter springs otherwise you cant get a lower ride height on the Mini
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Old 09-14-2009, 03:12 AM   #10136
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As stated you put the spacers in TC shocks in a Mini otherwise too much droop. They just dont work. You also need to run the shorter springs otherwise you cant get a lower ride height on the Mini
would putting the plastic spacer out of the M05 shocks into the TRF shocks be alright? got a pair of TC shocks i got off you ages ago waiting to be used...
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Old 09-14-2009, 03:22 AM   #10137
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Team-RTR,

If you read the attached link, it will tell you all about mini shocks. It relates what happens when you run them at full length and with spacers.

http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index....d=44&Itemid=60

tonyG,

Thanks for all the mini info in one place. I think people forget about your site.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:20 AM   #10138
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Team-RTR,

If you read the attached link, it will tell you all about mini shocks. It relates what happens when you run them at full length and with spacers.

http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index....d=44&Itemid=60

tonyG,

Thanks for all the mini info in one place. I think people forget about your site.

Regards,

Calvin.
Not shock related but in that article I found this part erroneous.

Quote:
Feel like putting hollow carbon gear shafts in? Don't bother...the shafts don't rotate, so the advantage of carbon ones is? Well there isn't one.
First of all the shaft does rotate, it rotates WITH the inner sleeve of the ball bearings. Or you could look at it as the shaft being stationary while the ball bearing and gear spins relative to the shaft. Second the hollow carbon shaft is much lighter than the stock steel one. If you're looking to save weight every little bit counts that's why people use aluminum or titanium screws, ball connectors, dogbones, axles instead of the steel ones.
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:32 AM   #10139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaPeRo View Post
Not shock related but in that article I found this part erroneous.



First of all the shaft does rotate, it rotates WITH the inner sleeve of the ball bearings. Or you could look at it as the shaft being stationary while the ball bearing and gear spins relative to the shaft. Second the hollow carbon shaft is much lighter than the stock steel one. If you're looking to save weight every little bit counts that's why people use aluminum or titanium screws, ball connectors, dogbones, axles instead of the steel ones.
yeah even with my limited mini knowledge, i did find a few little things to be inaccurate on that site..
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:33 AM   #10140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaPeRo View Post
Not shock related but in that article I found this part erroneous.



First of all the shaft does rotate, it rotates WITH the inner sleeve of the ball bearings. Or you could look at it as the shaft being stationary while the ball bearing and gear spins relative to the shaft. Second the hollow carbon shaft is much lighter than the stock steel one. If you're looking to save weight every little bit counts that's why people use aluminum or titanium screws, ball connectors, dogbones, axles instead of the steel ones.
The shaft doesn't rotate. It is jammed into the chassis halves. You have said it rotates then it doesn't rotate. You cant have both options . The bearings rotate on the shaft with the gear. As for saving weight, well the Mini is a better handler when not super light.

And guys, the website is very accurate regarding all things Mini
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