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Old 07-21-2009, 10:58 PM   #9586
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I agree with tamiyarcracer that more hopups for the MO5 can't be far away from Tamiya. I would rather pay more for quality parts than buy inferior parts.

Later,

Calvin.
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:21 PM   #9587
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I've had ots of difficulties with the Manta ray ball diff. Is the other one more reliable?

Thanks
By "the other one" do you mean the 3Racing diff? If so, no, it's crap.

Besides that, can't run their internals at KARZ anyway. The Manta Ray diff can be made to work, it just takes a lot of swearing.

Jim
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Old 07-21-2009, 11:50 PM   #9588
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
By "the other one" do you mean the 3Racing diff? If so, no, it's crap.

Besides that, can't run their internals at KARZ anyway. The Manta Ray diff can be made to work, it just takes a lot of swearing.

Jim
Let me share a trick that I have known about for about 10 years. Many people may know this many may not

When building a TA03 diff or even the Manta Ray diff. David Jun would remove the trust bearing, the 2 small cone washers, and 1 of the larger cone washers. He would then replace these items with a new fresh 11mm x 5mm (1150) bearing, He prefered a Rubber sealled bearing, because he would remove the rubber seals, Clean out the original grease, and re-pack it with a thick synthetic (real Car) grease and re-install the rubber seals. Put the bearing in the diff housing first, then the 2 clam shell washers, then the bolt.
When installing the clam shell washers you want to have the large diameter of the washers touching each other and the small diameter touching the bolt head and the bearing so the washers would look like this ()

If you have never done this you might want to give it a try, I have done this with all my mini diffs since I learned of it. Seems much smoother, and seems more durable. (atleast untill the new M05 diff comes out)
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:14 AM   #9589
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
By "the other one" do you mean the 3Racing diff? If so, no, it's crap.

Jim
agree to that, bought a m03 with a 3racing ball diff in it, it lasted about 30mins of driving before it came undone and wouldn't allow power to be put down. Down waste your money get a ta03 ball diff.
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:55 AM   #9590
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We can use lipo's at our race too. The nimh is just an example. Even with lipo, my target weight is around 1350g. But being lighter from the start allows you to add weight to preferred areas on the car. That's why I always use light weight weight parts from the beginning.
As far as the suspension mod went, the front end is more consistent now and reacts to different tire compounds better. Guess the linear suspension movement works on minis too. I tried AH springs, and found that the purples worked best for that day(really hot).
Guess my next experiment is to somehow bring the car to 60/40 without adding anymore weight.

3racing, ah the M03 ball diff nightmare. Broke on me after the 1st heat. The alum parts are also questionable especially where strength is required. I remember I bought the TA05IFS conversion and the mount holding the rocker arms bent after jumping one rail. Afterward, 3racing added a turnbuckle to strengthen it. We'll see what the ball diff has to offer.
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:11 AM   #9591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer View Post
Let me share a trick that I have known about for about 10 years. Many people may know this many may not

When building a TA03 diff or even the Manta Ray diff. David Jun would remove the trust bearing, the 2 small cone washers, and 1 of the larger cone washers. He would then replace these items with a new fresh 11mm x 5mm (1150) bearing, He prefered a Rubber sealled bearing, because he would remove the rubber seals, Clean out the original grease, and re-pack it with a thick synthetic (real Car) grease and re-install the rubber seals. Put the bearing in the diff housing first, then the 2 clam shell washers, then the bolt.
When installing the clam shell washers you want to have the large diameter of the washers touching each other and the small diameter touching the bolt head and the bearing so the washers would look like this ()

If you have never done this you might want to give it a try, I have done this with all my mini diffs since I learned of it. Seems much smoother, and seems more durable. (atleast untill the new M05 diff comes out)
Thanks for sharing!

You mentioned cone washers and then clam shell washers, do you meant the same thing?


On a separate question, what do size of turnbuckles do you guys use for the M05 steering links and camber links? 10mm Ti ones? Cant seem to find 12mm... Would appreciate if there is P/N.

Thanks
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Old 07-22-2009, 08:19 AM   #9592
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There you go, right out of the M03R manual,


P/N 9805684



Have a nice day!

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Old 07-22-2009, 09:01 AM   #9593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doriftu View Post
You mentioned cone washers and then clam shell washers, do you meant the same thing?
Yes, they are the same.

As for turnbuckles, I use the 42116 or 53892
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Old 07-22-2009, 10:55 AM   #9594
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Can I play too? Don
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya mini cooper-p1010001.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-p1010002.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-p1010003.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-p1010004.jpg  
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:46 AM   #9595
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Can I play too? Don

4WD....

is this HPI?

how's the handling, compared to a FWD, M-03?
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:00 PM   #9596
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Thanks, it's all Tamiya.( TA-02) I don't know how it handles compared to a Mini FWD. It's comparable to my 2 FWD TCs. FUN!! Don
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:37 PM   #9597
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[QUOTE=tamiyarcracer;6099255] Put the bearing in the diff housing first, then the 2 clam shell washers, then the bolt.[QUOTE]

Hi, hate to keep asking questions about this, but...

So, after removing the thrust bearing and washers, the only parts reinstalled are the bearing and 2 washers? Just want to be sure I'm not messing it up when I try it.

Jim
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:37 PM   #9598
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Quote:
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Thanks, it's all Tamiya.( TA-02) I don't know how it handles compared to a Mini FWD. It's comparable to my 2 FWD TCs. FUN!! Don
nice one, did not recognize that it's a TA-02,

did you modify that?

good job
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Old 07-22-2009, 01:11 PM   #9599
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Thanks, I made the chassis from a left over piece of carbon/graphite. The top plate is .063 G-10. I used the arms and battery holder pieces from a M-03. The TA-02 pieces are stock except for grinding out the rear motor mount area to get a HPI E-10 28t pinion to fit. With a 66T spur this gives a 5.75 gear ratio. That's as close as I could get to a M-03. It weighs 1505 grams or 53oz with a 4200 6c pack. Don
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:20 PM   #9600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
By "the other one" do you mean the 3Racing diff? If so, no, it's crap.

Besides that, can't run their internals at KARZ anyway. The Manta Ray diff can be made to work, it just takes a lot of swearing.

Jim
I couldn't remember the other ball diff that Tamiya had that will fit in a mini. The TA03 ball diff
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