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Old 07-01-2009, 10:51 AM   #9361
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Originally Posted by Barry White View Post
What's wrong with the 3 Racing one?
http://3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=2195
It's kind of crappy.
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:24 AM   #9362
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Can't wait till next week... it should be arriving here soon!!!!

Andrew!!!
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:30 PM   #9363
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Default Cup Racer Shocks for M03

Hello,
I am new here and have gotten a ton of help from here and rc-mini.net but I could not find this on any search I did.

Anyone out there using HPI Cup Racer shocks on an M03? They look like they are longer travel then the stock shocks and I am trying to build my second mini for rally/off road use.

I saw a lot of other post on how to use rc18 bowties and protect the electronics but nothing on frankenstiening parts.

Thanx in advance for any help.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:47 PM   #9364
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Is the Tamiya 53597 Option Parts M03 Assembly Universal Shaft http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53597 the correct part for the new M05? I haven't got the kit yet, but I figure I can start buying the parts.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:59 PM   #9365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fraghead5 View Post
Hello,
I am new here and have gotten a ton of help from here and rc-mini.net but I could not find this on any search I did.

Anyone out there using HPI Cup Racer shocks on an M03? They look like they are longer travel then the stock shocks and I am trying to build my second mini for rally/off road use.

I saw a lot of other post on how to use rc18 bowties and protect the electronics but nothing on frankenstiening parts.

Thanx in advance for any help.
I have both cars and I would NOT use the Cup Racer shocks on the M03 - no matter how much more travel you get. The shock shafts are about 1/2 the diameter as the M03 shocks, which would lead me to believe they would bend under the rigors of off-road/rally racing..Secondly, the CR shocks don't hold nearly as much oil as the M03 shocks - either the plastic bodies or the TRF shocks...Thirdly, the CR shocks use a skinny spring - kind of like the ones you'd see on a center shock of a 12th scale pan car (matter of fact I'm using AE 12th scale springs on my CR)...

You'd be better off getting longer shock shafts like the tamiya TC cars use - you'll get the extra ground clearance, plus a more durable shocks

Nice idea - IF the CR was built like the M03, but its not...you're better off spending the $$ elsewhere

BTW, where you from in NJ?? I do most of my racing with SJCCR in the South Jersey area...would love to find a few more guys to run M03's on a regular basis...I have one, and we 'scared' one guy by making him run his M03 with some RCGT cars If we had like 3 or 4 more guys running M03's I know we could get a class into Ray Murray's program
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Old 07-01-2009, 03:00 PM   #9366
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Saturday 27th June - M-05 Pro kit leaves RC Champ in Japan via EMS shipping...

Sunday 28th June - package arrives at Heathrow Airport in the UK...

Monday 29th June - package transferred to UK couriers 'International Hub'...
Finding out that the UK courier is 'Parcel Force Worldwide'...
Seeing the tracking status showing as 'awaiting customs charging'...

Wednesday 1st July - tracking status STILL shows 'awaiting customs charging'...
Phonecall to courier results in being told to wait for a letter detailing the customs charge & how to pay, nothing they can do until the letter is received (if they actually get around to sending one)...
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Old 07-01-2009, 03:01 PM   #9367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fraghead5 View Post
Hello,
I am new here and have gotten a ton of help from here and rc-mini.net but I could not find this on any search I did.

Anyone out there using HPI Cup Racer shocks on an M03? They look like they are longer travel then the stock shocks and I am trying to build my second mini for rally/off road use.

I saw a lot of other post on how to use rc18 bowties and protect the electronics but nothing on frankenstiening parts.

Thanx in advance for any help.
You don't need longer shocks. With the standard shocks at full (normal) length the angle on the front driveshaft is already right on the limit. Any longer and they'll just start binding up really badly.

What we advise on the site is realistically the limit of travel of an M03 rally car.
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Old 07-01-2009, 03:55 PM   #9368
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Getting hammered by the wife or g/f because you

spend too much time working on toy cars...

Help is at hand. rc-mini show you how to do an '05 in 5'



Check it out on rc-mini now - HERE
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Old 07-01-2009, 04:07 PM   #9369
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haha awesome
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:42 PM   #9370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Getting hammered by the wife or g/f because you

spend too much time working on toy cars...

Help is at hand. rc-mini show you how to do an '05 in 5'



Check it out on rc-mini now - HERE
Wow I wish I get my shocks are prebuilt.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:44 PM   #9371
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hey tony gray - what's the cool hand-tool screw driver thing you're using??

would love to get me one of them for putting together ANY Tamiya kit
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Old 07-01-2009, 09:26 PM   #9372
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Well it wasn't me doing the build - but I asked Tony P and..

it's a Bosch IXO LiIon cordless screwdriver.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:29 PM   #9373
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Lol I already ordered my Hudy 2mm tip for that power driver 2 weeks ago hehe...
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:45 PM   #9374
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I tap most of my 3mm machine screw holes. Makes things much easier and faster. I do use a drill for my bead locks though.

Looking for ways to make the M05 lighter. So far I took the batt holders and electronic trays off. Not sure if I want to hack the entire rear bulkhead like the one in the vid a few posts up. But I will guarantee that someone will make a swiss chesse version of it As far as performance goes, it does roll less, so I'll have to make some changes from my old M03. It is still plenty of fun to drive though.
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:34 PM   #9375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannon View Post
The TA03 diff is an old design , both poor quality and heavy. Imagine putting in a diff something like a TA05 or 416 diff. Lighter , spools up quicker etc etc

The fact that Tamiya is using a bearing carrier in the M05 shows they are ready to use a diff with the standard 15 x 10 diff support bearing
I get the idea of a lighter diff that spools up quicker in a 4wd touring car that gets plenty of traction but in a front wheel drive M-chassis would this not just induce more wheelspin?

As for the 3 racing diff, I put a set of these in a TL-01 project I have. They come pre-built but they need work to get them to run smoothly and come loose after 1-2 packs causing them to slip.
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