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Old 05-11-2009, 02:22 PM   #9031
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Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
Thanks Granpa. Is it possible to go straight to the machine screws or do I have to get new plastic pieces everywhere since the old stuff has already been "self-tapped?"
Its more easy just to go a couple mm with the tapping screw then go from there with a machine screw of choice.

I believe if you dont tap the thread first and start with a machine screw youll get a more snug machine screw.

People go aluminum hex machine screw to "save weight" but it really doesnt matter. Also by having a cool anodized hex screw just makes it look more trick.
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Old 05-11-2009, 03:05 PM   #9032
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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
No idea..... I know the ABC Mini bodies are a lot narrower in the centre section, but (assuming yours is a genuine Tamiya) I doubt there would have been any change in the Tamiya bodyshells.
It is genuine Tamiya and its narrow then my other mini cooper body
Im going to run it soon so I know choice then to run it with the funny looking doors


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As for 4WD Minis, most of us at rc-mini find them only mildly interesting. They're just a shrunken down Touring Car and have none of the quirks and foibles of a FWD Mini chassis.

I report on them, and I have a lot of them, but I have to say I'd be lucky to drive one once a year. They're just not that interesting to us.
I feel you on that! I get sometimes bothered about the turning of the FWD so I've thought about 4WD but i already have a full 10th scale 4WD Touring Car so im going to stick with FWD
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:05 PM   #9033
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Originally Posted by stitchy View Post
Thanks Granpa. Is it possible to go straight to the machine screws or do I have to get new plastic pieces everywhere since the old stuff has already been "self-tapped?"
Yes you can. If you've used the self tapping screws, you don't need to tap the screw holes

The part # for the flanged tube you'll need for the suspension is 50593. You'll need 2 bags. They are brass so they need to be replaced every so often. Also I used longer screws on some of the suspension bits. You'll be able to figure it out as you do it.
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Old 05-11-2009, 10:22 PM   #9034
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Yes you can. If you've used the self tapping screws, you don't need to tap the screw holes

The part # for the flanged tube you'll need for the suspension is 50593. You'll need 2 bags. They are brass so they need to be replaced every so often. Also I used longer screws on some of the suspension bits. You'll be able to figure it out as you do it.
This is suppose to replace the screws on the arm hinges or the shocks ball connector?
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Old 05-12-2009, 01:09 AM   #9035
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Originally Posted by stocker View Post
This is suppose to replace the screws on the arm hinges or the shocks ball connector?
I believe a machine screw & brass flange combo will take the place of the kit supplied OEM shouldered self-tapping screws
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Old 05-12-2009, 02:57 AM   #9036
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This.........



would be an M05...
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:48 AM   #9037
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I like it and I think the servo, ESC and receiver moving to the rear of the car will actually give the car better balance. The only thing that's bothering me is possibly excessive slop in the steering system.
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Old 05-12-2009, 03:55 AM   #9038
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Difference in specs (the non-Pro isn't ballraced, though that'd be expected).

M05:

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After 10 years since the release of the first M-series R/C car, Tamiya is now releasing the latest M-05 chassis with the popular Rover Mini Cooper racing version body.

# This is a 1/10 R/C assembly kit.
# Length: 315mm, Width: 167mm, Height: 135mm.
# The very popular Mini Cooper Racing car comes loaded on the new M-05 chassis.
# The servo, receiver, and ESC are mounted on the rear of the newly designed monocoque frame for better weight distribution and a lower center of gravity.
# The 3-piece tie-rod steering linkage offers sharp cornering performance.
# Sticker sheet included.
# Includes 60D radial tires and silver Rover Mini Cooper wheels.
# ESC and type 540 motor included.
# 2-channel R/C system, battery pack & charger are separately required.
# A wide variety of Option Parts for M-05 chassis machines and bodies are already available for further customization.
M05 Pro:
Quote:
Tamiya is proud to introduce the release of a new chassis to the very popular M Chassis range, the M-05 PRO chassis kit. The new chassis layout features new servo, receiver,and ESC positions for improved weight distribution and a lower center of gravity. Further-more, a 3-piece tie-rod steering linkage offers sharp cornering performance. This machine handles extremely well on straights and proves its worth with its excellent high-speed cornering ability. Body shells and numerous Option Parts for M-03 chassis machines canbe loaded onto this machine easily.

# Full ball bearings.
# Length: 299mm, Width: 165mm, Tread: 138mm.
# Includes three chassis extension attachment allowing you to make either a short, middle, or long wheelbase chassis car. (Wheelbases: 210mm, 225mm, & 239mm.)
# A number of high precision parts such as aluminum rear uprights, aluminum ball connectors, setting spacer, three kinds of springs, high-torque servo saver, and aluminum servo horn are included.
# CVA Super Mini Dampers (clear) and TRF short damper springs (soft, medium, hard 2pcs each, white) are included.
# Motor and body are not included.
# ESC, 2-channel R/C system, battery pack & charger are separately required.
# A wide variety of Option Parts are available to further customize your machine.
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Old 05-12-2009, 04:44 AM   #9039
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How can a "3-piece tie-rod steering linkage" offer better performance than direct links to the knuckles like the M03 has!!!

Gimme a break....
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:45 AM   #9040
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Think about this.

With the servo now in the rear, wheelspin will probably be more pronounced.
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Old 05-12-2009, 07:50 AM   #9041
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How does one use an Orion style lipo with those battery holders?
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Old 05-12-2009, 09:30 AM   #9042
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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
How can a "3-piece tie-rod steering linkage" offer better performance than direct links to the knuckles like the M03 has!!!

Gimme a break....
I think what they mean is the steering is going to be more adjustable to various track/setup conditions than before. The three link steering is pretty much like the touring cars and I can say their steering is way better than any mini I have seen. True, the pan-car type steering (the M03 has) can be better but the M03 mini is not a pan car. And when you add all the slop everywhere I don't think it matters much what steering you have.
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Old 05-12-2009, 10:01 AM   #9043
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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
How can a "3-piece tie-rod steering linkage" offer better performance than direct links to the knuckles like the M03 has!!!

Gimme a break....
Instead of having a fast turning twitchy top heavy chassis tamiya I believe are trying to make it turn better without tiping over(and I've seen a lot of flips with this car) and the stearing is going to be more huge upgrade then the twitchyness this car has with the direct links. That type of stearing does good in pan cars for faster quicker turning something the m03 doesn't need.

Huge improvements all around this new car
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:10 AM   #9044
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This.........



would be an M05...
All I have to say is that's a damn nice looking M-chassis. Put me down for one
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Old 05-12-2009, 11:58 AM   #9045
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Originally Posted by fordmike65 View Post
All I have to say is that's a damn nice looking M-chassis. Put me down for one
I thought you didn't want one since you just got the m03 welcome to the mini adiction lol
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