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Old 05-08-2009, 08:32 PM   #9016
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Any tips on setting up an M02 (RWD version M01) chassis for tight indoor carpet?

I have all the option parts from Tamiya available plus a wide range of tires. The car spins out in corners (using a kit supplied silvercan with highest gearing) no matter what combination of tires I choose. I am using TA03 Tamiya shocks with kit supplied 30wt oil and tallest spacers and Tamiya on road tuned springs white at the front, kit springs at the back.

I have tried 60D mini slicks (with Tamiya hard sponge inserts) and the handling was worst. Changed to kit supplied radials M grip front normal rear (kit sponge inserts) and had horible oversteer, swapped them around and had horrible understeer.

Last I changed to HPI X pattern (RS4 mini pro inserts whatever they are, I can't remember) and still have horrible understeer (low speed) and tailspin if I throttle it.

I have also installed both front and rear swaybar kits.

I have about 4 deg total toe out on the front and 0 camber all around.
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Last edited by niznai; 05-10-2009 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 05-09-2009, 12:22 AM   #9017
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Any tips on setting up an M02 (RWD version M01) chassis for tight indoor carpet?

I have all the option parts from Tamiya available plus a wide range of tires. The car spins out in corners (using a kit supplied silvercan with highest gearing) no matter what combination of tires I choose. I am using TA03 Tamiya shocks with kit supplied 30wt oil and tallest spacers and Tamiya on road tuned springs white at the front, kit springs at the back.

I have tried 60D mini slicks (with Tamiya hard sponge inserts) and the handling was worst. Changed to kit supplied radials M grip front normal rear (kit sponge inserts) and had horible oversteer, swpped them around and had horrible understeer.

Last I changed to HPI X pattern (RS4 mini pro inserts whatever they are, I can't rmember) and still have horrible understeer (low speed) and tailspin if I throttle it.

I have also installed both front and rear swaybar kits.

I have about 4 deg total toe out on the front and 0 camber all around.
I use my M01 as RWD on my old mini cooper body and I use HPI D-compound tires with hard insert foams. Blue springe rear, short pink in front. Silver can. I cannot do donuts.
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Old 05-09-2009, 05:24 AM   #9018
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I use my M01 as RWD on my old mini cooper body and I use HPI D-compound tires with hard insert foams. Blue springe rear, short pink in front. Silver can. I cannot do donuts.
What brand springs? What viscosity shock oil and how many holes pistons?
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Old 05-09-2009, 07:56 AM   #9019
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What brand springs? What viscosity shock oil and how many holes pistons?
I use those old tamiya TC springs the blue-hard,neon green-mid,pink-soft.

I use two hole pistants front and rear 35wt oil front and rear. And ofcourse sway bars. Keep ride hieght even front and rear. How much ride hieght you have doesn't really matter just as longests its even front to rear
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:07 AM   #9020
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Keep your suspension the same, Tamiya 'S' grips up front, 'M' grips in the rear. That's all you need.
well so far i have oil filled shocks
diff
bearings in the gearbox
and my m8 makes milled aluminum parts so i have adjustable rear wishbones and adjustable front and rear shock towers
i run a hpi sport 27t can

and i need to order a few bits as my front wishbone snapped
but i will have 18t pinion and alloy front wishbones
my oil weight is 35 and the car is m03 old mini cooper shell

with th adjustable wishbone and shock towers it also enables me to run any kamtec shells so i was thinking mk1 golf or cosworth:P

so the spec you say is just tires?
anything on toe in or out or what oil to use
how bout anything like inserts for the tires?

at my club i race minis 1/10 and micro buggies such as the blaze

all the minis seem to be good on the track its just mine,

i am just here to get all the tips to get the edge on my dad as me and him are neck to neck every race

thanks
matt
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Old 05-10-2009, 11:32 AM   #9021
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and my m8 makes milled aluminum parts so i have adjustable rear wishbones and adjustable front and rear shock towers

with th adjustable wishbone and shock towers it also enables me to run any kamtec shells so i was thinking mk1 golf or cosworth:P
Can you please post pics of your adjustable rear wishbones, and adjustable front and rear shock towers? Thanks
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Old 05-10-2009, 12:11 PM   #9022
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Can you please post pics of your adjustable rear wishbones, and adjustable front and rear shock towers? Thanks
i will tomorrow night im not at home atm
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Old 05-10-2009, 12:53 PM   #9023
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Default M-03R Blue Limited Edition

Hi all,
I just wanted to let you know that i have a tamiya M-03R blue limited edition for sale. I rand this car only 2 race days and still looks like brand new.
The car also has Hotbodies blue aluminum competition shocks on.

here is the link for sale thread.
TAMIYA M-03R Blue Chassis Edition

Thank you!
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Old 05-10-2009, 03:00 PM   #9024
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Yet another in the seemingly endless lot of new 4WD Mini chassis to emerge from Asia.

This one is a conversion for the TA05 made by RC-SQUARE in Japan.

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Old 05-10-2009, 03:41 PM   #9025
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Hey tony, these questions are for you.

I have an old tamiya mini cooper body (came with new box stock m03) and it fits perfect.

Last year in September i bought another mini body. i just painted it for the first time a week ago. I put it on my m03 and the battery with cell mounts it bulges out the side panals. I put it on my m01 and the same. I compared both bodys. My old and new one side by side and the new body is WAY narrow... about half inch in the door area on both sides.

Is this a defected one? Or is my old M.C body just "broken in"? Im thinking of just making it a shelf queen.

i know youve painted more then one mini body have you ever had this problem????

Also whats your thoughts about 4wd m-chassis? What do YOU like better? Im thinking of getting one but i just LOVE FWD
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Old 05-10-2009, 04:29 PM   #9026
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No idea..... I know the ABC Mini bodies are a lot narrower in the centre section, but (assuming yours is a genuine Tamiya) I doubt there would have been any change in the Tamiya bodyshells.

As for 4WD Minis, most of us at rc-mini find them only mildly interesting. They're just a shrunken down Touring Car and have none of the quirks and foibles of a FWD Mini chassis.

I report on them, and I have a lot of them, but I have to say I'd be lucky to drive one once a year. They're just not that interesting to us.
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:58 PM   #9027
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Has anyone converted the M-03 to use machine hex screws? Or are the self tapping screws the only way to go?
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:05 PM   #9028
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Has anyone converted the M-03 to use machine hex screws? Or are the self tapping screws the only way to go?
I routinely replace most of the self tapping screws with machine screws. You should tap the screw holes part way or it gets very difficult tighren them all the way. Partially tapping makes it a lot easier. You can use a flanged tube for the shoulder screws in the suspension. Use a 3x15 for the servo mounting blocks. The extra length stiffens th servo mounts.

Sure makes life easier to not deal wth philips head screws.
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:44 AM   #9029
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Default Ain't No Stopping A M03

Tamiya M03 = All Weather Fun

Check out the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xohsZci1CcY
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Old 05-11-2009, 12:21 PM   #9030
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I routinely replace most of the self tapping screws with machine screws. You should tap the screw holes part way or it gets very difficult tighren them all the way. Partially tapping makes it a lot easier. You can use a flanged tube for the shoulder screws in the suspension. Use a 3x15 for the servo mounting blocks. The extra length stiffens th servo mounts.

Sure makes life easier to not deal wth philips head screws.
Thanks Granpa. Is it possible to go straight to the machine screws or do I have to get new plastic pieces everywhere since the old stuff has already been "self-tapped?"
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