robus

iTrader: (13)

Jim,
Actually I got it to work with just shims, but it didn't last.
Secret is in right grease.
I was using molybdenum (black) grease.
After max of 3 race days I would have to tighten the diff case to limit the diff action. Shims were wearing down the insides of diff case.
Somebody posted here before, to prevent this from happening you should glue the first shim to the case. It helps, but, heat and vibration will eventually loosen all up.
O-ring has just enough dampening to take care of vibration and grease (silicone this time) will give just enough slip.
Rob

SUNA

iTrader: (47)

A123's have been used by RC airplanes for a while now. Our technology lags compared to those guys. We're just getting into LIPO's and they have been using them for years!

I think I recall that Horizon Hobby bought the distributor rights of A123's. Not sure how that will effect the delivery of new batteries to the NA marketplace.

jonest

iTrader: (10)

Talking about tires, what goes best on a cement (rough) surface?

Would M-grip does the job?

Thanks

arj

Guys

Just got my M03 and wanted to get some advice on a setup to start from. I have a bunch of hop-ups and wanted to know where to start with tyres, springs and damper piston holes.

I have a full set of springs (yellow, red, blue & white) together with the super mini CVA shocks. I have the universals and ball diff also.

I run on asphalt that with a rough surface but not lots of bumps. It is a fairly technical track.

So what is a good starting point for:
F/R Springs
F/R piston holes

I'll be using the kit oil. Tyres are yet to be purchased so open to suggestions.

I'm running LIPO so assume i should put some weight on the chassis. Roughly home much and front or rear?

Thanks

Adrian

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

You need to look HERE, HERE, and HERE.

little_sister

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for that link Tony! Goldmine!

ruf

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I'm confused here now. A123 is just a brand name like Sanyo or GP. The Tamiya LF2200 cells are made by A123 using the new lithium iron phosphate (LF) chemistry which allows for 4C charge rate. The airplane guys have been using LF batteries? Is this the same as the Traxxas battery?

BoneCrusher

iTrader: (2)

Don’t know who else is running a RWD conversion but I need some help here:

Car is built as per instruction at rc-mini.net…..thanks guys! Car actually runs pretty well and is quite competitive (mid – A main qualifying) against the fast guys at our local club, which is a medium grip carpet track. However, it does run into a few problems.
1. Motor temperature (we run silver cans only) appears to be quite higher after a run than my FWD to the point that it kind of stinks. Temp on the can 90F, in the hold 150F after a 5 minute run. The motor being used was originally run in a FWD. Should I get a new motor and break it in only in reverse?
2. The car hops like crazy. I originally used friction dampers and that was even worse. Now using oil shocks, it’s a lot better but still ‘skips’ along on the track coming out from a turn which loses some speed. Car weights in at 1270 grams, ride height 5 front / 3 rear, front blue / rear red springs, adjustable camber links (from the M03R) in the rear to even out tire wear. I’m using 3 racing tires front and rear. I nifetech the rears full and inside front 1/3. My other tire options at the club are Type A slicks, S-Grips, M-grips or the ones that come with the kit.
3. Any adjustable camber links for the front to even out tire wear?
4. Because the frame that use to house the servo in its FWD from is now removed, can I basically use any body out there? I’m set up with the 225 mid length.
5. Speed. I feel that the car comes out of the corner pretty quickly (except the hopping takes some speed away and have to use a way different driving style than the FWD) but the other cars (FWD or RWD) seem to pull away mid-straight away and hence comes into the following corner at a faster speed than I do. I’m using the standard 20-tooth pinion. Should I drill an extra hole and test a 21-tooth pinion?
6. Considering putting some lead weight only the car to test. Where should I put it? Currently using orion 3200 lipos with 84 grams lead weight underneath the battery only.

Aside from blaming my driving skills (I’ve actually never drove a RWD mini before the conversion), a $5 servo, a cheap ESC, and a super duct taped Honda civic body, any suggestions out there would be appreciated.

Ivan

Hyde

iTrader: (1)

did they ever make diffrent caster degree c-hubs for the m03??

also how many different type of c-hubs were made? two differnt huh? one larger and one smaller (the ones made for the older ones and the same ones made for the m03r) I have two type.... the ones that came in the reguler m03 are bigger... and the ones that come in the m03r are smaller. I couldn't use the spindles from the mo3r on the reguler m03 c-hubs....

quinnfrazier

i bought a used m03 and need servo mounts does any one have a part# thanks in advance

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

A newly created effort for one of the rc-mini crew, based on the Team Atlas Suzuki Carry Ute/Pickup.

And if you're not familiar with it, 'Slurm' is a fictitious soft drink from the Futurama cartoon series.

p.s. Quinnfrazier - the servo mounts are on parts tree 'C' P/No 50793

Tommi Makkinen

iTrader: (28)

i like that suzuki pickup body. what brand is that?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Mmmm, Slurm. Made from only the finest "fanny" secretions of the Wormulon Queen!

Good lord! I've just realized that I'm a total nerd.

Jim

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

Yes Jim, yes you are. But I'm the idiot who painted it, so what does that make me?

Drifting101

iTrader: (8)

I found some tires mounted on HPI rims and they say "Slick 54", any good?