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Old 03-30-2009, 11:10 AM   #8686
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They are the same as TL01 (B parts grid).

If you don't have the 2 degrees rear upright I would suggest you buy
p/n 51238 that includes front upright, C-hub, Rear toe in upright and frame spacer to make your M03 into a M03M, all of that for less than 10.00.

All the parts are made of a better material than the old uprights,
you will also need smaller bearings, 8x1050 to be exact.

Hope this gives you all the avenues!
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:21 AM   #8687
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Hey that helps a ton! Thank you very much.
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Old 03-30-2009, 11:59 AM   #8688
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hey guys,

I'm looking for the best performing Lipo (hardcased) that fits the M-03M.
ATM I have an Orion 3400 and just wondering if there exists stronger.

I just read about a new Muchmore Stikpack-alike Lipo that will fit the M-chassis, but it delivers about the same punch ...
Orion: 3400 at 25C ==> 3.4 x 25 = 85 Amps
Muchmore: 4200 at 20C ==> 4.2 x 20 = 84 Amps

Anybody knows stronger Lipo's that will fit?
(We can't modify the chassis in our local Tam-cup and may only use hardcased Lipo's)
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:01 PM   #8689
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hey tony your right. the 3racing ball diff sux. I try to adjust it after months of running it stock. and it slipps. I try to tighten it. and it still slips. I try everything in the book and it slips. money waisted.

F^%& 3racing m03 ball diffs! lol
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:16 PM   #8690
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is there a Tamiya Ball diff that fits the M-chassis and is it any good?

All drivers I know use the standard pinion-diff.
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:26 PM   #8691
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i used the tamiya one at the weekend and i loved it

just tighten the sh*t out of it

gonna add some silicone sealer to the gear diff to make a spool then try that
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:27 PM   #8692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATC3 View Post
hey tony your right. the 3racing ball diff sux. I try to adjust it after months of running it stock. and it slipps. I try to tighten it. and it still slips. I try everything in the book and it slips. money waisted.

F^%& 3racing m03 ball diffs! lol
have you tried adding shims and using loctite on the screw or nut that adjusts the diff? Also did you use proper ball diff grease, or has any other lubricant come in contact with the diff balls? Reason I ask, is the premise of a diff, there should always be a way to tighten it up. Id strip it, use motor cleaner on every single part, clean out your gearbox of lubricants (small grease in certain places is fine) rebuild it using an extremely small amount of diff grease (non slip!) reassemble using loctite on the adjustment screw/nut.
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:31 PM   #8693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_E View Post
hey guys,

I'm looking for the best performing Lipo (hardcased) that fits the M-03M.
ATM I have an Orion 3400 and just wondering if there exists stronger.

I just read about a new Muchmore Stikpack-alike Lipo that will fit the M-chassis, but it delivers about the same punch ...
Orion: 3400 at 25C ==> 3.4 x 25 = 85 Amps
Muchmore: 4200 at 20C ==> 4.2 x 20 = 84 Amps

Anybody knows stronger Lipo's that will fit?
(We can't modify the chassis in our local Tam-cup and may only use hardcased Lipo's)
i was quicker with my NI-Mh batterys than the boys with lipo

stick with stick packs !!!!
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:19 PM   #8694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
i used the tamiya one at the weekend and i loved it
and what diff is that? There is no M-chassis-diff afaik, so it must be another diff, from another model.
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:21 PM   #8695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LATC3 View Post
hey tony your right. the 3racing ball diff sux. I try to adjust it after months of running it stock. and it slipps. I try to tighten it. and it still slips. I try everything in the book and it slips. money waisted.

F^%& 3racing m03 ball diffs! lol
Not only money wasted, but now you've got a useless front chassis half as well because of the way you have to grind out the bearing area to fit that piece of sh1t 3 racing diff in...

I've lost count of the amount of people I've told to not buy one - then they've gone out and done it anyway. Only to discover how truly bad they are..

Tamiya make a perfectly good ball diff for the M03 - The TA03 one. That's all anyone ever needs.
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:39 PM   #8696
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the part number is 53267

for the TA-03 ball diff

fits straight in and makes a world of differance out the corners

also if you run a hot motor set your throttle trim to 30% forward

i did it was loads better (50%) for me
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:42 PM   #8697
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and is it possible to trim that diff (tam 53267) without having to disasembling the car?
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:48 PM   #8698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_E View Post
and is it possible to trim that diff (tam 53267) without having to disasembling the car?
unfortunately not, but knowing what you want from it, build it, try it, do a single adjustment (yes take the chassis apart) put it back together and it runs fine forever. I run 3 in the minis I have (brothers and fathers and mine) and all run perfect.
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Old 03-30-2009, 02:59 PM   #8699
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well, I just talked to a friend who had one and got it out of his car again because the diff had the tendency to get loose all the time.

Is this a common problem?
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Old 03-30-2009, 03:04 PM   #8700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low_E View Post
well, I just talked to a friend who had one and got it out of his car again because the diff had the tendency to get loose all the time.

Is this a common problem?
yes if you dont use loctite. Use it once, wait for it to set, and it wont have a problem. with the 3 cars, we each run a different amount of diff action (mine has hardly any, dads is very free, and brothers is about in the middle). None of them have changed.
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