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Old 03-23-2009, 01:08 PM   #8641
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Pretty close to 32 I reckon, which is the main reason they're really noisy...
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:15 PM   #8642
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i want are REALLY good stup for a tarmac high grip smooth track please

we are using the GM purple 27 turn motor now and i'm struggling for rear end grip off power , it just wants to swap ends
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:28 PM   #8643
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yep "tamiya" 32pitch.

all tamiya gears are either bigger or smaller pitch gears.

32pitch tamiya is a little smaller then reguler 32pitch

tamiyas 48pitch is a little bigger then reguler 48pitch.

has something to do with it being from japan
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:56 PM   #8644
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
i want are REALLY good stup for a tarmac high grip smooth track please

we are using the GM purple 27 turn motor now and i'm struggling for rear end grip off power , it just wants to swap ends
have you put you're electronics in the rear chassis case? that puts some balance on the chassis as well as weight on the rear wheels.

do you guys have a spec tire? can you use any tires??
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Old 03-23-2009, 11:38 PM   #8645
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we can only use stock tyres or M grip tamiya

got my electrics in the rear but i use a GM speedo from a 1/12th scale LOL so it weighs nothing

think i may try some lead in the rear bumper as i have the speed but loose out on the corners
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Old 03-24-2009, 12:09 AM   #8646
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Is there anything you can do to decrease front grip a little? Tire prep? Suspension tuning?

I've found quite often that this sort of behaviour has a lot to do with the grip relationship between the front and rear wheels and often has nothing to do with weight bias.

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Old 03-24-2009, 06:05 AM   #8647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
i want are REALLY good stup for a tarmac high grip smooth track please

we are using the GM purple 27 turn motor now and i'm struggling for rear end grip off power , it just wants to swap ends

1. Try stiffer front springs
2. Reduce the rear droop
3. Remove rear swaybar if installed
4. Install front swaybar or go with a thicker one if one is installed
5. Raise the front ride height or lower the rear ride height

You have too much weight transfer to the front during off power.
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Old 03-24-2009, 08:34 AM   #8648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder View Post
1. Try stiffer front springs
2. Reduce the rear droop
3. Remove rear swaybar if installed
4. Install front swaybar or go with a thicker one if one is installed
5. Raise the front ride height or lower the rear ride height

You have too much weight transfer to the front during off power.
+1 good post. Im not a fan of putting any weight past the axle lines. If you want to add weight (its a VERY good idea) id place it around the battery area or just behind it. Im currently running my electronics high over the battery, and a tonne of lead in the rear compartment, stuck to the bottom. if you want to run your elecs in the rear compartment, personally, id stick lead to the bottom of the compartment first, then stick your elecs to the lead.

Tony and the rest of the guys here are always spot on with these little things. Go to your local tire shop and ask for a few sticks of the stick on tire weight lead. Add alot of lead to that mini (in the right places) and you will be amazed. My mini absolutely flies, and its 100g over our min weight with a lipo.
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Old 03-24-2009, 08:37 AM   #8649
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Originally Posted by LATC3 View Post
yep "tamiya" 32pitch.

all tamiya gears are either bigger or smaller pitch gears.

32pitch tamiya is a little smaller then reguler 32pitch

tamiyas 48pitch is a little bigger then reguler 48pitch.

has something to do with it being from japan

I think they're actually metric pitch which is why they never match imperial sizes like 32, 48 and 64. I just don't know what exactly, but I know that .4 pitch (metric) as used in TA05 cars for instance is very close to .64 (imperial) pitch. Some people even mix pinions and spurs of the two (not my choice) albeit it doesn't work at any spur/pinion radius (i.e. the larger the spur/pinion the better the mesh of the two pitch gears). At smaller radius (smaller numebr of teeth) the mesh is quite rough and ultimately impossible, because curvature becomes too different.
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Old 03-24-2009, 02:14 PM   #8650
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+1 good post. Im not a fan of putting any weight past the axle lines. If you want to add weight (its a VERY good idea) id place it around the battery area or just behind it. Im currently running my electronics high over the battery, and a tonne of lead in the rear compartment, stuck to the bottom. if you want to run your elecs in the rear compartment, personally, id stick lead to the bottom of the compartment first, then stick your elecs to the lead.

Tony and the rest of the guys here are always spot on with these little things. Go to your local tire shop and ask for a few sticks of the stick on tire weight lead. Add alot of lead to that mini (in the right places) and you will be amazed. My mini absolutely flies, and its 100g over our min weight with a lipo.
i have my reciever in the rear but the speedo is behind the servo as it's tiny LOL

i have altered the suspension tonight

it was set really low and stiff as we were racing on carpet a couple of weeks ago , i dont have roll barsor a ball diff but am thinking about buying them , do they really work on the M chassis ???

and failing that i will add some weight , i'm a little reserved as to adding weight as i think it may slow the car down but i will try your advice on saturday
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Old 03-24-2009, 02:17 PM   #8651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
i have my reciever in the rear but the speedo is behind the servo as it's tiny LOL

i have altered the suspension tonight

it was set really low and stiff as we were racing on carpet a couple of weeks ago , i dont have roll barsor a ball diff but am thinking about buying them , do they really work on the M chassis ???

and failing that i will add some weight , i'm a little reserved as to adding weight as i think it may slow the car down but i will try your advice on saturday
If you have ever heard the famous mini wheel spin as they exit the corner, the key to going faster is more weight. I added a tonne for carpet, if i was racing asphalt, id go heavier again, and find the stickiest tires i could find!
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Old 03-24-2009, 02:20 PM   #8652
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If you have ever heard the famous mini wheel spin as they exit the corner, the key to going faster is more weight. I added a tonne for carpet, if i was racing asphalt, id go heavier again, and find the stickiest tires i could find!
HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM !!!!

ok cool i will try a lot of thing's

lead is cheeper than a ball diff

Last edited by sidecarphil1; 03-24-2009 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:12 PM   #8653
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Another question for the knowledgeable. there seems to be a maze of tires and inserts available for minis from Tamiya. Would anyone care to comment what each (or combination) is best for? I am interested for the moment only in Tamiya brand stuff.

Last edited by niznai; 03-25-2009 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 03-24-2009, 11:26 PM   #8654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182 View Post
If you have ever heard the famous mini wheel spin as they exit the corner
One of the factors with the wheelspin is the weight transfer in the chassis while cornering. When you hit a corner in a mini, the weight doesn't just transfer to the outside, it also tends to transfer diagonally to the outside rear wheel. This will tend to unweight the inside front wheel, allowing slippage.

One could also attempt to tune this out by stiffening the rear suspension or allowing a little more droop in the front to allow the wheel to remain in contact with the carpet.

Judging by the specs you posted a few days ago Aaron, this seems to be one of the factors that had your car hooked up. The weight doesn't hurt, either, but I don't think it's the only variable.

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Old 03-25-2009, 03:27 AM   #8655
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This.... is the fine, sculpted form of yours truly...

Holding a HPI Switch.



You want to see more? (Of the car, not me...)

Go HERE now.
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