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Old 02-23-2009, 03:31 PM   #8371
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
PM'D you mate

your welcome i think

need a few drivers and a few batterys
mm just read yout PM (THX!)
I'm most interested but I also just checked the distance. It would be a 4-hour drive .. only to get there.
4 hour drive to Groningen, 4 hour endurance swift .... and 4 hour drive back home (south of Brussels) .... is gonna be difficult to explain this to the misses AND not really a good thing to do, taking the kids along.
Darn
I would have be honoured to help you guys out with some battery's
I never use my stickpack NIMH's anymore (I have 3 Intelects 4200) as we can use Lipo's in the Belgian tamiya Cup (Dieu merci)
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:06 PM   #8372
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The ballooning happens I believe when you have a damaged cell or the cells are overheating. The cells will swell if they are not charging equally or overheat. Are you using a cell balancer when you are charging? Usually happens to older batteries or cheap cells. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
not really it happen to my new 3 run pack, i run the battery with a lipo cut off esc...but it still happen, any 1 else got similar experience,,?? i always balance charge
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Old 02-23-2009, 08:11 PM   #8373
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not really it happen to my new 3 run pack, i run the battery with a lipo cut off esc...but it still happen, any 1 else got similar experience,,?? i always balance charge
Got any pics of the "balloon"? So the bloating was contained by the hard-case? Any performance degradation?
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:05 PM   #8374
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edwintklee,

The new IP 4000 Lipo fits into the mini and provides long runtime and great punch. These are not ROAR legal yet, but I don't think that will take long.

I have used one for the last couple of clubbies and can't fault them.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:07 AM   #8375
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Default I LOVE the crome chassis! I have one too!

...I hate to play the spoiler here as it seems you guys went through a ton of effort to get them, but...when I got my R with the smokey chassis I noticed the rather inconsistant finish and thought, hmmm, this just looks like a really bad paint job of TS-71 Smoke over a chrome plated chassis. So a quick trip to my local Big Box store (sadly I work there and look terrible in orange, lol) and one $5 can of denatured alcohol and an old rag quickly removed all the wierd smoke paint and give me a shiney chrome plated chassis, no muss, no fuss.

Also, this trick works in reverse too-if you hate the inconsistant finish on your blue plated chassis as I did, a quick shot of TS-72 Clear Blue on the inside of the chassis and on the areas that didn't recieve a good color coat clears it right up. Just be SURE to clean any oil off the chassis as fisheyes are really noticible when painting candyapples. Also spray coats insanely thin as runs are also very visible. But have no fear: if you mess up, your $5 bought you a whole quart of that denatured alcohol!

Or you could go wild and combine the two, strip the paint and repaint with with clear red or clear orange and really cause a debate at you next TCS race!

I would suggest starting with the smoke chassis if you are planning this trick as any slight 'missed spots' in smoke won't be as noticible as on the blue chassis.
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:09 AM   #8376
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
edwintklee,

The new IP 4000 Lipo fits into the mini and provides long runtime and great punch. These are not ROAR legal yet, but I don't think that will take long.

I have used one for the last couple of clubbies and can't fault them.

Regards,

Calvin.
this IP4000 provides 20C if I'm not mistaken.
The Orion 3800 delivers 30C ... so wouldn't the Orion give much more punch and acceleration?
I'm not looking for long drive times, but fast ones when competing
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:33 AM   #8377
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this IP4000 provides 20C if I'm not mistaken.
The Orion 3800 delivers 30C ... so wouldn't the Orion give much more punch and acceleration?
I'm not looking for long drive times, but fast ones when competing
it's 25C.

I think the M03 would be more traction limited rather than current limited?
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Old 02-24-2009, 01:49 AM   #8378
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Low_E,

I don't think the Orion 3800 fits into the MO3 chassis. The IP 4000 25C provides great punch and retains good voltage over five minutes. With regards to this battery it has better speed than the 3200 Yeah racing Lipo.

We use these batteries with the Hobbywing 35A 3000kv BL systems in Mini here in Australia.

You just need to change the battery connector to a Deans from the usual Tamiya offering.

Regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 02-24-2009 at 03:33 AM. Reason: xtra text
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Old 02-24-2009, 03:07 AM   #8379
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this IP4000 provides 20C if I'm not mistaken.
The Orion 3800 delivers 30C ... so wouldn't the Orion give much more punch and acceleration?
I'm not looking for long drive times, but fast ones when competing
No. The C rating is not punch, it is how many amps it can deliver
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Old 02-24-2009, 04:11 AM   #8380
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guys,,


for your info, i am runing yeah3200 with Hb60A+13t bl on 20t pinion, roughly can last over 10min,

as for the "baloon" yeahracing pack, i don see a major drop in performance, but punch a little less....
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:23 AM   #8381
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Can someone please give me the metric sizes of all the bearings needed for the M03 chassis, thanks
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:57 AM   #8382
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And for those who don't know what that pic is all about...it's the winners at the Thailand International Touring Car Championship on the weekend.

And thats the Mini class winners

Mini 2WD A Main Final

1 -Tanit K. (TQ)
2 -Atsushi Hara
3 -Marc Rheinard

The question is, were the HPI/HB guys running the new HPI Switch FWD or not? Sadly there's no photos or info to say yes/no.

Either way, it was an M03M that won
Was racing against them in Bangkok last weekend. It was crazy!

Well, all of us were on M03s, even Hara and Surikarn. The setup of the cars were tough to get them right as front and rear tire compounds and inserts are the same.
It was close racing for most of us with top 5 getting at least a win in one of the qualifying heats and etc. Qualifying was based on IFMAR style taking the top 3 results of the 5 qualifying heats.


Tanit was super fast all weekend. Afterall, it is his home circuit and he got his car to work really great and super fast. His motor was drawing 24k+ rpm with average amps of 1.8 and up. He had a perfect weekend. TQ and winning it.

Hara qualified A7 but zoomed past me in the first corner. He did something drastic to his car and got it to work. He finished 2nd!

Marc was fast all weekend with very close pace to tanit. Din exactly know how Hara passed him. Haha.

Surikarn was 4th with pace equivilant to Marc all weekend but with less consistency.

Next was Satoshi Maezumi in 5th, his car being better in the morning but less competitive at noon.

I was 6th, struggling very badly on the final day with car not tracking straight and going crazy. It was very different from my good handling car in Q3 and Q4 on saturday. My pace dropped by 0.7 per lap and thats massive. I could only hang on and try to keep my car on the track.

7th was Kiyo Suzuki. He had some tough luck with flips and etc but his car handled really well, just a little lack of speed.

8th was Yen Jung Nam, owner of Corsair Racing. He was racing in his long armed M03 with corsair racing's special Mini Truck bodyshell that made his car handle on rails! He also had some special parts for mini. Will post it when I have the time.

Thats all the story I can provide you guys.

Now, time for you guys to help me figure out something. How did my car become so bad after 1 night. It cannot track straight at all. I balanced my suspension with weighing scales and made sure they were balanced. Any possibilities you guys can help me think of? Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-24-2009, 06:57 AM   #8383
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guys,,


for your info, i am runing yeah3200 with Hb60A+13t bl on 20t pinion, roughly can last over 10min,

as for the "baloon" yeahracing pack, i don see a major drop in performance, but punch a little less....
How hot is the motor after 10 mins continously?
What is the safe operating temperature of the Hobby Wing 13t 3000kV?
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:25 AM   #8384
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How hot is the motor after 10 mins continously?
What is the safe operating temperature of the Hobby Wing 13t 3000kV?
hmm...never take tempreture, but i can hold on to it, example its still much coller than a cup of tea, much cooler than 2 23t about 5.0 ratio...slightly above room tempreture.......about 35-40'c....


here we have tried running orca11.5t for 4 hours, the motor survive to tell the story.....i think we might have another 4 hours endurance coming up....

i have not race an endurance before....
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Old 02-24-2009, 09:11 AM   #8385
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Now, time for you guys to help me figure out something. How did my car become so bad after 1 night. It cannot track straight at all. I balanced my suspension with weighing scales and made sure they were balanced. Any possibilities you guys can help me think of? Thanks in advance.
I noticed my shocks were kinda soft after a few runs.... not sure whether this affected your car....
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