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Old 02-09-2009, 03:22 PM   #8296
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Question for you guys. I've had my mini only for 9 months but right now, it won't drive in a straight line. It seemingly turns fine, but going down the straight, no matter how I trim, it won't go straight. As soon as it picks up speed, if I overcorrect too much, it fishtails and, well...disasters happen.

I'm aware of "Tamiya slop," but the car didn't do this before. There is a bit of play in the suspension and hub carriers, but nothing out of the ordinary in my experience. The only other thing I can think of is a problem with the servo, but that is a fairly new unit as well (KO Propo).

Any ideas?

Yes, the Tamiya servo safer is super sloppy... If you have any spare TAmiya High torque servo savers around, you can us the metal spring collars to wrap around the stock Mini Servo saver.

Or another alternative is to use a cable tie to tie around the servo safer, don't tie too tie, so that the servo safer still works somewhat.
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:49 PM   #8297
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Stitch

I use a robinson servo saver the large one. I agree with Tony by checking all he suggested, when I had that problem I was using the plastic servo mounts and when I upgraded from a stock servo and the aluminum servo stays the car was perfect down the straight and overall a better car. I run a touch of toe out by the way it makes the car turn in better IMO with my setup
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:23 PM   #8298
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All great suggestions, thanks so much for the help, guys!!
I'm going to try replacing the servo saver, the aluminum mounts, and trying a different servo first to see how that goes...

Thanks again for all the replies!!
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Old 02-09-2009, 04:43 PM   #8299
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Can a M04-L chassis (VW Bug) be converted to a M04-M chassis (Mazda Miata) ?

Thanks !
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Old 02-09-2009, 10:05 PM   #8300
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stitchy i had weird steering problems on the weekend. I ended up changing out the servo/servo saver/servo mounts with another car and that fixed the problem. I suspect it was the servo but the servo mounts i swapped in were aluminium ones so there wouldve been less chance of movement.

Also another stupid thing ive done before is that i forgot two screws when servicing the gears. which fix in the center of the chassis (ie the screws from one side which fix the front and rear halves of the chassis)
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Old 02-09-2009, 10:53 PM   #8301
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Can a M04-L chassis (VW Bug) be converted to a M04-M chassis (Mazda Miata) ?

Thanks !
You need to remove the F3 and F4 extension pieces in between the motor mount and the main chassis to go from M04L to M04M


Last edited by Sydewynder; 02-10-2009 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Remove reference to pic. Someone removed my pic. :(
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:42 AM   #8302
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Default m03m / m03 ?!

hello!

what is the difference? between

Tamiya (#58368) 1:10 M-03M Suzuki Swift Super 1600 W/ESC EP

and the

Tamiya (#58211) 1:10 M-03 Rover Mini Cooper Racing W/ESC EP

apart from the body

i will start in the mini side of rc-life^^ and need a basic product...

thanks
cely
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:58 AM   #8303
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M-03M is the medium wheelbase version of the chassis. This is accomplished by a couple of spacers in the middle of the chassis. If you remove them, then you have a M-03. I think the difference is about 15mm.

Other than length, which is adjustable anyway, they're the same.

Jim
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:21 AM   #8304
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You are better off to buy a M03M Suzuki Swift because it has all the suspension goodies and if you remove the spacer you have a M03, you can also buy the longer spacer 0005798 for 6.99$ and make it a M03L.

There you have it all the options to have fun!

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Old 02-10-2009, 10:33 AM   #8305
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Default but...

is not right taht with the "normal" m-03 i hav the most choice by the bodys!?!

then 90% of the mini bodys in the online-shops are wheelbase 210mm

and the old mini cooper looks much bether than the suzuki

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Old 02-10-2009, 11:18 AM   #8306
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Yes but you will have to buy toe in uprights for the rear, stronger uprights for the front, so it's better to buy the M03m, remove the spacer, and buy the 210mm body that you want and sell the Suzuki.

Overall you are going to have a better chassis set-up to start with.

It's not the body that dictate the chassis.

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Old 02-10-2009, 12:04 PM   #8307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cely View Post
hello!

what is the difference? between

Tamiya (#58368) 1:10 M-03M Suzuki Swift Super 1600 W/ESC EP

and the

Tamiya (#58211) 1:10 M-03 Rover Mini Cooper Racing W/ESC EP

apart from the body

i will start in the mini side of rc-life^^ and need a basic product...

thanks
cely
I believe one other difference is that the MO3M uses 5x10 wheel bearings instead of the 5x11s in the Rover. Also the front uprights are different, so you can't use the alloy uprights for the Rover, you must use the ones for the MO3R. The king pins are also different.
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Old 02-10-2009, 01:24 PM   #8308
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Default one more question....

i have only tamiya rc cars ta05, f103rm, durga, and many older models....

now i will buy a mini also a m-03.
and now i am see the abc hobby genetic! wow loks nice...

what you say as mini-profis? wats the better choice?
i know the technical differance 2/4wd etc but what you say...

pro-contra

thanks
cely
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Old 02-10-2009, 01:32 PM   #8309
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Originally Posted by cely View Post
i have only tamiya rc cars ta05, f103rm, durga, and many older models....

now i will buy a mini also a m-03.
and now i am see the abc hobby genetic! wow loks nice...

what you say as mini-profis? wats the better choice?
i know the technical differance 2/4wd etc but what you say...

pro-contra

thanks
cely


I say go for the Tamiya. You can join the Tamiya races if you get the M03.

See what kind of minis does your track racers run & run the same car as them. Most likely thats the car your LHS carries and part support is aplenty..
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Old 02-10-2009, 10:42 PM   #8310
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