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Old 01-20-2009, 05:37 AM   #8146
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Originally Posted by edwintklee View Post
hmm...

let see what i remember,

1) with reverse, 25%
2) minimum punch.
other pretty standard.....

i am still having traction roll problems, hehe

sluggish, my only feel clogging during start up, when its running, its quite smooth i would say.....i am using 60A esc...

on rubber touring tyre. its very fast....compare to sport tuned
I found the biggest help was adding weight in the front bumper
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Old 01-20-2009, 05:41 AM   #8147
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WOW!!! What are your methods?
If you read through this thread and the Silver Can thread you'll find a number of postings on ways to improve performance. See below...
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Tamiya mini cooper-motor-40-2-volts.jpg  
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:00 AM   #8148
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Originally Posted by MTX3-B View Post
thanks for the pointers. mine comes with a 25A esc. does that explain why it is pretty slow compared to your more powerful 60A?
traction roll is always there...you get a good selection of tires plus some refined driving, that ought to minimise traction roll...
will be trying on the standard mini tires this weekend at KR.
well traction rolls can be minimise by adding weight, the more the less.....hehe

yeah 101, add weight can reduce traction rolls....i have added a lot...lol....


thanks for feedback....
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:13 AM   #8149
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Thanks a lot Serpent,

Like always when you ask for something on this forum yo always get it!

Thanks again and have a nice day

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Old 01-20-2009, 03:25 PM   #8150
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For a sneak peek at what's new in the land of 4WD Minis, like this one...



Rip on over to rc-mini here and check out the very latest from 3 Racing and Atomic
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:53 PM   #8151
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Hello folks,
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. We havent finalised the rules yet but we are thinking of keeping the car standard, ie. kit tyres, kit esc, kit motor, kit shocks and springs plus no Lipo's. The only hop up being bearings and alloy hubs. Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. What are the likely problems we are going to face running the class like that? Is any of the standard parts likely to fail? What settings could be made to a standard car to help handling, ie tow in or out?
We ran our first race last week and my God did we have some fun, so much so none of us are bringing our touring cars tomorrow night we'll be racing Minis again.
Regards,
Lotus.
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Old 01-20-2009, 06:34 PM   #8152
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Hello folks,
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. We havent finalised the rules yet but we are thinking of keeping the car standard, ie. kit tyres, kit esc, kit motor, kit shocks and springs plus no Lipo's. The only hop up being bearings and alloy hubs. Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. What are the likely problems we are going to face running the class like that? Is any of the standard parts likely to fail? What settings could be made to a standard car to help handling, ie tow in or out?
We ran our first race last week and my God did we have some fun, so much so none of us are bringing our touring cars tomorrow night we'll be racing Minis again.
Regards,
Lotus.
you might want to check with Monkeyracing. He's got a very successful program that's been around for awhile. One of the biggest problems with a Mini program is keeping them going.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:28 PM   #8153
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Default Shock tubes

When you are using friction shocks I read that you are suppose to put o-rings inside to shim them ( 5mm), do you put one outside to keep them from botoming to hard and everybody says that you build the shocks per instructions so does that mean that the rubber tube inside is 10mm for the front and 12mm for the rear?

Thanks

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Old 01-21-2009, 10:26 AM   #8154
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Hello folks,
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. We havent finalised the rules yet but we are thinking of keeping the car standard, ie. kit tyres, kit esc, kit motor, kit shocks and springs plus no Lipo's. The only hop up being bearings and alloy hubs. Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. What are the likely problems we are going to face running the class like that? Is any of the standard parts likely to fail? What settings could be made to a standard car to help handling, ie tow in or out?
We ran our first race last week and my God did we have some fun, so much so none of us are bringing our touring cars tomorrow night we'll be racing Minis again.
Regards,
Lotus.
Straight from Tamiya Canada. We follow these exact rules except for the body rule bc Tamiya bodies are too expensive. Mini class has been dead gere for a few years, and now we have at least 8 people out every Tuesday, if everyone shows we have 15.
It all comes down to driving and set-up.

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MINI SPORTS

Any Tamiya "M" chassis car (M01, M02, M02-L, M03, MO3M, M04L, MO4M).
Tamiya Hop-Ups allowed, no chassis lightening allowed.
Kit type closed-end bell, silver can motor only. Motors must not perform better that a 1.3amp draw at 2volts on a Peak or Orion Motor Performance Monitor. Motors will be checked throughout the race day. This is being done to tighten up the racing and encourage new racers to join this low cost type of racing!
Spec Battery rules apply. (Reedy 2400 Wolf Pack, Peak/Orion 2400sport packs)
M04 may be shortened from "long" to "medium" length, when doing so, only 60D tires and medium length bodies (Eunos Roadster and Alfa Romeo GTA) can be used.
26mm tires ONLY for cars featuring S2000, BMW M Roadster, 911, Boxster, SLK bodies.
Tamiya rubber tires only, no foam tires.
Porsche Boxster, Porsche 911, Mercedes SLK, BMW M Roadster and Honda S2000 may not run extra wide or offset wheels.
Pinion gears must follow this chart: MO3 20T pinion, MO4L with 26mm tires 17T pinion, MO4m with 60D tires 19T pinion. MO1/MO2 cars with 60D tires must use 20T pinion and a 16T pinion with 26mm tires. RWD MO2 must use an 18T pinion gear with 60D tires.
Chassis drive must follow the type of body that you are using. (i.e. No RWD Mini Coopers)
No wings are allowed. (Other than wing supplied in the Swift kit on the Swift body)
Batteries may be taped in, in lieu of using the supplied battery holder.
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Old 01-21-2009, 11:04 AM   #8155
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Default M03L manual

Where can I donwload one?

Thanks
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:50 PM   #8156
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Where can I donwload one?

Thanks
there you go: http://www.tamiya.com/japan/download.../58295m03l.pdf
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Old 01-21-2009, 01:54 PM   #8157
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Originally Posted by lotus View Post
Hello folks,
We have just started a new M03 class at our club, the idea being to help bring in new members. ... no Lipo's.
... Basically we want to keep the class cheap to get into. ...
this I do not understand.
A lipo is indeed sa bit more expensive then a conventional NiMH-battery.
But with ONE lipo you can drive the whole day. With NiMH you will need more then one packs if you want to drive more then one heat.
+ maintenance on the Lipo is much easier then on a NiMH.
So in my humble opinion, LiPO is better and over all cheaper for beginning RC-drivers.
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Old 01-21-2009, 03:32 PM   #8158
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Thanks LOW E for the link!

Now if someone could answer my shock tube question.............:confused :
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Old 01-21-2009, 04:39 PM   #8159
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What's to understand? It says..

Just lob some spacers (fuel tubing or 'o' rings are fine) on the shock shaft to get around 5mm or so in total. Then assemble the shock as per instructions but cut the rubber tube to about 8mm for both ends. Yes, the shock shaft with the spacers fits INSIDE the black rubber tube, INSIDE the shock body. Make sure to lubricate the inner of the black rubber tube.

Says nothing about anything at all on the outside...
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:04 PM   #8160
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Man! I have to put my glasses when I go on your site!

Thanks Tony you're the man

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