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Old 01-04-2009, 12:27 AM   #8056
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Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....

Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee

Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
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Old 01-04-2009, 01:52 AM   #8057
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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....

Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee

Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
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Old 01-04-2009, 02:19 AM   #8058
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Originally Posted by k_h_d View Post
The surface is carpet and smooth. So you put more than just the one spacer?

Here is a picture from rc-mini.net which shows the spacer I used. If after I add about 200g and my ride height is still not any lower then I will think about more spacers.

My toe is pretty neurtral.

Kenny
We roll our carpet out onto a tiled floor in a Bingo hall......so the only slight bump is the joint between carpet sections....if it's that smooth....slam it!!!

Now like Tony....and others suggest.....your driving style and the traction you get from the carpet are going to determine some of the set-up changes you make.....

someone suggested to use CA on the sidewalls of the tires....I've never done that.....I understand the idea but why wouldn't you just find a front tire that washes out a little on it's own.....if that's the principle? (I'm sure someone would like to answer!!)

The most important part Kenny is that you have joined the rest of us in this mystical.....magical.....adventure most of us call Mini!!! Don't worry we'll save you a room in the sanitarium down the hall from Tony, Jim and myself!!!!

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Old 01-04-2009, 05:52 AM   #8059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....

Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee

Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
Maybe it's the aero quality of the Swift rather than the wheelbase? Some tracks in Japan allow only the SWB chassis and I wish ours would do the same.
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:19 AM   #8060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrayroooahhhh View Post
...
someone suggested to use CA on the sidewalls of the tires....I've never done that.....I understand the idea but why wouldn't you just find a front tire that washes out a little on it's own.....if that's the principle? (I'm sure someone would like to answer!!)
...
Because we are limited to Tamiya-tyres in our Tamiya-competition and look for a maximum of traction in the front, but the CA just limits side-ways traction a bit and thus eliminates grip roll
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:44 AM   #8061
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You CA the walls because the sidewalls are the reason the car rolls....not the contact patch. You want all the forward momentum and steering the softer tire gives without the rolling the softer sidewall creates. And you can use a firmer insert to stiffen the sidewall, but you will still roll on high bite carpet.

On asphalt things are different.
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Old 01-04-2009, 08:48 AM   #8062
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I was reading this... and thought that one would still require the step screws and ball nut connectors. Wouldn't the TAM53303 TL01 adjustable arm kit with a set of 4 10mm turnbuckles would do the job for all 4 ends? What do you guys think?

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Hey guys,

I noticed a while back some posting about the "ring of death" that occurs on the mini front tyres with the standard links, and if there's any way to stop it. Well, I thought I'd pass on this tip given to me a while ago.

Basically, you make some adjustable upper links for the front of the car
What you need are;
TAM53892 3x10mm turnbuckle shaft
TAM53662 TT01 turnbuckle tie-rod set

Then you need to take the 4 of the 5mm connectors from the TT01 set, and remove from the end 3mm of material. Then thread in the 10mm turnbuckles, and waa-la, you have a very short adjustable upper link. Set the overall length of the link to 24mm, and you'll still have a ~1 negative camber when the car is on the ground, although this can be altered a little if you cut off more of the connector joint. Then just mount the link up using the ball connectors supplied in the TT01 set, and your good to go. (pic 1)

Having the longer front link removes most of the negative camber present on the front, this is pretty much the big contributor to the very biased front tyre wear. I've attached a pic showing how the my new front S-Grips are wearing... with the normal setup, you'd expect most of the inside treads to be worn. However, with the longer front link, the wear is smack down the middle of the tyre

Another good thing is this aids forward traction, simply as the tyre is more upright when in use, meaning more the contact patch can be used for acceleration. A benefit for sure with a FWD. In my eyes though, the bigger benefit is the more even wear, so longer life from the tyres

Last edited by stocker; 01-04-2009 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 01-04-2009, 02:41 PM   #8063
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stocker,

I have never tried the tip below, as it is against our mini rules. For club racing you may get away with it.

I am pretty sure that 3Racing have released a tie rod set that replaces all of the plastic moulded parts on a mini.

regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 01-04-2009 at 02:42 PM. Reason: xtra text
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Old 01-04-2009, 05:32 PM   #8064
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Yeah, I saw that 3Racing has a set too, that includes the steering links as well. I suppose the links and ball connectors are fully compatible with Tamiya's?
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Old 01-05-2009, 10:28 PM   #8065
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
k_h_d,



Make sure you turn your steering rate down on your radio. This should make the turning slower to react to your input. This will not affect your steering endpoints.

Regards,

Calvin.
please correct me if i am wrong, i know that controllers have D/R(dual rate) and EPA (end pointadjustments,)

on my 3pks, i notice its i reduce the D/R, the steering will be less.(is it similar to reduce epa??)
actually i still can figure out different between D/R and epa

which to reduce to reduce traction roll.

thanks in advance cal...

btw i am using 26mm hpi x pattern front and sorex 36r rear. running on asphalt track which its also shared by gp car on foam and other mini on foam.
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Old 01-05-2009, 10:39 PM   #8066
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The idea on steering is as follows:

On a normal set up radio the steering is linear. That is you get equal steering response across the whole range of movement of the steering wheel.

For Minis, you need to reduce the steering rate to a negative exponential. That is , the movement of the steering is reduced for small movement either side of straight ahead. The steering rate increases as you turn more. This eliminates the twitchy feel around no steering input (straight ahead)

On KO radios it is called steering curve. I dont know on Futaba
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Old 01-05-2009, 11:40 PM   #8067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannon View Post
The idea on steering is as follows:

On a normal set up radio the steering is linear. That is you get equal steering response across the whole range of movement of the steering wheel.

For Minis, you need to reduce the steering rate to a negative exponential. That is , the movement of the steering is reduced for small movement either side of straight ahead. The steering rate increases as you turn more. This eliminates the twitchy feel around no steering input (straight ahead)

On KO radios it is called steering curve. I dont know on Futaba
negative by how much?? -10% or -15% or -20%
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Old 01-05-2009, 11:42 PM   #8068
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I run -30% Makes for a smoother driving Mini
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:45 AM   #8069
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edwintklee,

I use a KO Helios Ex-10 and am not that familiar with the 3PKS controls. I run mine at between -30 and -40% on the steering curve.

I downloaded the manual for the 3PKS and you need to go into the STEXP program and reduce that using the minus button. This will change the steering response time of the servo, conversly you can press the + button and make it faster. This does not change the EPA of your servo.

This information is on page 52 of your instruction manual.

jonest,

The amount you reduce the response time of the servo is up to you and your driving technique.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 01-06-2009, 12:01 PM   #8070
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Tony, pal, help me out here! I'm a little confused about some of the race set-ups listed on rc-mini.

I thought the usual convention was to run harder springs up front, and softer springs at the rear. I noticed in the race set-ups, it was consistently soft front and hard rear.

What's up with that? Did I not get that memo?

Jim
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