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Old 12-29-2008, 05:56 AM   #7981
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Originally Posted by xrayroooahhhh View Post
That's cause I set it up!!!!

I'm really starting to think that on our smooth carpet track.....you really don't need the oil dampers at all....my TT01 is "railed" running friction dampers....I think it's more important to get the right inserts....and springs!!!

R
I built my M03L. Only upgrades include ball bearings for the transmission and then super mini oil shocks. I am setup per rc-mini.net build instructions to run at a low race heigth with the control arms just about level with the ground. I put blue shocks up front and yellow in the rear.


So what is the key with adjusting springs/inserts on carpet?
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:25 AM   #7982
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The photo page is up and running at karz.ca!

Have a look. It's mostly mini!
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:19 PM   #7983
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Jim,

Great pictures on your website. Looks like you have a good turn out for mini. I also like to see a grid comprising so many different mini body shells. The track looks tight and would reward clean driving. I like the fact that you allow cars to be changed from FWD to RWD, something that is different to our rules.

I must finish building my MO4 and give it a test run ,before I turn it into a shelf queen. The Civic and miata cars look excellent.

regards,

Calvin
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Old 12-29-2008, 05:31 PM   #7984
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Jim, that really looks great. YGPM
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Old 12-29-2008, 07:32 PM   #7985
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Hey Socal Mini Drivers....



And more track pix....



If you guys aren't doing anything on New Year's Day(liek watching a parade) in Socal, please come on bye!
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Old 12-29-2008, 07:52 PM   #7986
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Now - Just WHAT is this thing? And what's it got to do with Minis?



Click HERE to find out if you really need a Speed Meter.....
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Old 12-29-2008, 08:04 PM   #7987
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Pretty damn cool machine, Tony. I had a similar idea for getting an idea of how fast cars were running based simply on output voltage from a motor/generator.

These guys did the math and got it sort of calibrated, too!

Way beyond my scope of smartitude.

Jim

PS: Damn Charlie, you've out-postered me! Now I need to notch it up a bit. Here's my last poster....

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Old 12-29-2008, 10:36 PM   #7988
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Gonna check out your site now...i wouldn't mind coming down and drivin out there.
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:54 AM   #7989
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Beltran raceway is a great Mini track. Sure wish I could be there.

Charlie, let us know if you'll have any more events here.
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:47 AM   #7990
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I don't know if any of you were planning on attending the first TCS race in California, according to the TCS forum the date has been changed so that it doesn't conflict with the Super Bowl.
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Old 12-30-2008, 02:14 PM   #7991
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I just got my Tamiya aluminum shock set.

What weight oil should I run? I am running a stock M03, not racing or anything, just driving it around.



I was also looking at the 3Racing site for some more upgrades. I came across the front and rear graphite rear stiffener. Where do these parts mount? Do they replace an existing part or is it a new part? A picture would be great.

Last edited by SerpentCT4S; 12-30-2008 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:12 PM   #7992
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Pictures of my M03L. Mostly stock with transmission bearing upgrade and super mini oil shocks and tuning shocks. This is the first RC car body I have painted. It turned out pretty sloppy but the intent was to look like my 2003 Cooper S. I can't wait to get out and join the local racers.
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Tamiya mini cooper-img_0043-large-.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-img_0051-large-.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-img_0032-large-.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-img_0038-large-.jpg  
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:49 PM   #7993
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SerpentCT4S,

For the Tamiya shocks 50 wt oil front and 40 Wt oil rear. I use three hole pistons front and rear. Ride height should be around 5mm front and 5/6mm rear. The lower the car is the less likely to traction roll.

3Racing front and rear graphite braces go across the top of the front and rear chassis and use the screw holes used for the top mounting point for the shocks. These are not legal for TCS racing but will not worry you for driving around.

3Racing front and rear hubs are softer than the Tamiya hubs. They will not take abuse and bend easily. I have had one degree rear hubs become 10 degree rear hubs from being hit by another racer at full noise.

I advise you to visit http://rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php. There is alot of useful information on the web site.

Regards,

Calvin
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:55 PM   #7994
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k_h_d,

Make sure you have some extra tyres. The kit radials wear out quickly. I have found that the tuning on my mini is mostly done with the tyres and then springs if needed.

Not sure if you are running TCS, if so you might want some 60D S grips and 60D's. Here in Aus most run Powers, Spice or rides.

Regards,

Calvin
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Old 12-30-2008, 04:06 PM   #7995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
SerpentCT4S,

For the Tamiya shocks 50 wt oil front and 40 Wt oil rear. I use three hole pistons front and rear. Ride height should be around 5mm front and 5/6mm rear. The lower the car is the less likely to traction roll.

3Racing front and rear graphite braces go across the top of the front and rear chassis and use the screw holes used for the top mounting point for the shocks. These are not legal for TCS racing but will not worry you for driving around.

3Racing front and rear hubs are softer than the Tamiya hubs. They will not take abuse and bend easily. I have had one degree rear hubs become 10 degree rear hubs from being hit by another racer at full noise.

I advise you to visit http://rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php. There is alot of useful information on the web site.

Regards,

Calvin
Thanks for the advice. I will take a look at the link you included.

I just got my shocks mounted back onto my car. I used 35 wt oil in all 4 and used the 2 hole pistons. These shocks seem shorter than the stock ones. I had to raise my body up one hole on my posts.

I might get the graphite braces. I dont plan on racing, so I dont have to worry if they are legal.

When I said aluminum hubs, I mean the wheel hexes. Instead of the plastic ones, I am going to get the aluminum ones.
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