Tamiya mini cooper
#7921
Oh, I thought the part that wears out is the part that connects to the servo output gear. I see Tamiya also has one for the touring car as well, but sure is costly...
#7922
stocker,
The Hi torque servo saver used to flog out where the three springs used sit against the plastic. On the new aluminum horn this is moulded into the part which has made it stronger. I don't really want to remove from the car, but the only parts used from the original Hi torque servo saver are; the servo adaptor plate, the three springs and the front retaining mount.
The new aluminum horn, comes with two blue anodised 5mm ball studs and four 5mm half cup adjusters.
So far I have nudged a few boards with no signs of wear or slippage on the servo.
BTW,
The tyres fitted to the front of the mini are the control tyres to be used at TITC for the mini event in Feb next year. These had seen three heats at my local track and showed signs of beading. Also attached other photos.
Regards,
Calvin.
The Hi torque servo saver used to flog out where the three springs used sit against the plastic. On the new aluminum horn this is moulded into the part which has made it stronger. I don't really want to remove from the car, but the only parts used from the original Hi torque servo saver are; the servo adaptor plate, the three springs and the front retaining mount.
The new aluminum horn, comes with two blue anodised 5mm ball studs and four 5mm half cup adjusters.
So far I have nudged a few boards with no signs of wear or slippage on the servo.
BTW,
The tyres fitted to the front of the mini are the control tyres to be used at TITC for the mini event in Feb next year. These had seen three heats at my local track and showed signs of beading. Also attached other photos.
Regards,
Calvin.
#7923
Tech Adept
stocker,
The Hi torque servo saver used to flog out where the three springs used sit against the plastic. On the new aluminum horn this is moulded into the part which has made it stronger. I don't really want to remove from the car, but the only parts used from the original Hi torque servo saver are; the servo adaptor plate, the three springs and the front retaining mount.
The new aluminum horn, comes with two blue anodised 5mm ball studs and four 5mm half cup adjusters.
So far I have nudged a few boards with no signs of wear or slippage on the servo.
BTW,
The tyres fitted to the front of the mini are the control tyres to be used at TITC for the mini event in Feb next year. These had seen three heats at my local track and showed signs of beading. Also attached other photos.
Regards,
Calvin.
The Hi torque servo saver used to flog out where the three springs used sit against the plastic. On the new aluminum horn this is moulded into the part which has made it stronger. I don't really want to remove from the car, but the only parts used from the original Hi torque servo saver are; the servo adaptor plate, the three springs and the front retaining mount.
The new aluminum horn, comes with two blue anodised 5mm ball studs and four 5mm half cup adjusters.
So far I have nudged a few boards with no signs of wear or slippage on the servo.
BTW,
The tyres fitted to the front of the mini are the control tyres to be used at TITC for the mini event in Feb next year. These had seen three heats at my local track and showed signs of beading. Also attached other photos.
Regards,
Calvin.
#7924
Help, anyone uses the part with Lipos?
Last edited by stocker; 12-20-2008 at 04:36 PM.
#7925
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Steering servo I read something this morning about someone using a mini servo in an M-03. I've tried this, but the servo is too small to reach between the two mounting points. Any ideas how I might accomplish this one? I thought about just building an adaptor of some kind, but haven't actually tried it yet.
Any ideas you guys have would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Any ideas you guys have would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I've used the Hitec 235AG(same case as the 225) in my mini with no problems.
I use the Kimbrough large servo saver, never had any problems with it & no need to assemble an expensive solution to Tamiya's inability to make a decent servo saver.
#7927
oldrcer,
The front tyres are Ride, non belted, temp range unknown. These will be used as the control tyre at TITC in Thailand in Feb 09. I ran these at night on an indoor track with a abrasive surface. They have the standard foam insert fitted.
I believe to fit these front and back, the rears would need to be sauced.
Regards,
Calvin.
The front tyres are Ride, non belted, temp range unknown. These will be used as the control tyre at TITC in Thailand in Feb 09. I ran these at night on an indoor track with a abrasive surface. They have the standard foam insert fitted.
I believe to fit these front and back, the rears would need to be sauced.
Regards,
Calvin.
#7928
Tech Adept
Thanks caltek1!
#7929
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I'll go with Calvin here, the Alloy servo saver piece is spot on. I've been using a similar part on my 416 for ages with zero issues.... and then having had the servo saver probs with the stock part, decided to swtich over to this bit. Obviously, my mini was in need of some more blue bling...
Oh, and just finished my latest mini shell, a Corsair Ironboy... find some front body mounts for the rear deck now
Oh, and just finished my latest mini shell, a Corsair Ironboy... find some front body mounts for the rear deck now
#7930
http://www.cochesrc.com/foros/modifi...battery+holder
Tell me if you need me to translate it...
Hope it works...
#7931
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
What in the world is this....
And could there possibly be any more?
Click HERE to find out about the complete silliness of CARAVAN/TRAILER racing at our final race meeting for the year!
And could there possibly be any more?
Click HERE to find out about the complete silliness of CARAVAN/TRAILER racing at our final race meeting for the year!
#7932
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
guys....
just wondering, if i were to use those standard touring TRF shocks, what should be the best shock sharf spacer size??
as for spacer material, better use plastic or rubber fuel pipe?
thanks in advance
just wondering, if i were to use those standard touring TRF shocks, what should be the best shock sharf spacer size??
as for spacer material, better use plastic or rubber fuel pipe?
thanks in advance
#7933
edwintklee,
I would use the 5mm plastic spacers or two/three o rings. I find that the fuel line does not always cut straight and may not be equal in each shock.
My two cents,
Calvin.
I would use the 5mm plastic spacers or two/three o rings. I find that the fuel line does not always cut straight and may not be equal in each shock.
My two cents,
Calvin.
#7934
Tech Initiate
I am looking to get into mini racing. I am trying to figure out which base model to start with to be most cost effective. I have read just about every available piece of information on rc-mini.net. What a great resource.
One thing I am a little confused on is which model to start with. There are several M03L options. I don't think I want to go with the M03R because after reading through rc-mini.net it sounds like it has a lot of upgrades which are not needed and will be more expensive. However, what is the difference between the two M03R models?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&FVSEARCH=m03r
I think the one I want to order is the 2006 Mini Cooper part number 58400. Is that the same thing as the LWB Mini Cooper that rc-mini.net recommends? Other than wheel base is there anything different about it than the M03M swift that the past threads have recommended?
One thing I do want is modern mini body to fit so I can finish it to look like my 2003 Mini Cooper S. So from research I think I need the M03L version.
Thanks,
k
One thing I am a little confused on is which model to start with. There are several M03L options. I don't think I want to go with the M03R because after reading through rc-mini.net it sounds like it has a lot of upgrades which are not needed and will be more expensive. However, what is the difference between the two M03R models?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&FVSEARCH=m03r
I think the one I want to order is the 2006 Mini Cooper part number 58400. Is that the same thing as the LWB Mini Cooper that rc-mini.net recommends? Other than wheel base is there anything different about it than the M03M swift that the past threads have recommended?
One thing I do want is modern mini body to fit so I can finish it to look like my 2003 Mini Cooper S. So from research I think I need the M03L version.
Thanks,
k
Last edited by k_h_d; 12-21-2008 at 03:21 PM.
#7935
The MO3L or MO3M are the best kits to get. Both can be made into a short by removing the spacer. If you get the MO3L this can be made into a M by purchasing Tamiya F parts which come with the spacer, front and rear hubs as well as the C hubs. This is Tamiya PNo 51238.
The MO3R can be assembled as any of the wheel bases, due to the inclusion of the M and L extensions. The MO3R comes with all of the hopups, except for a ball diff and the shocks are brittle. If you have the money, these are great kits, however the standard kit with the ball diff and super mini CVA's are just as good.
The short wheel base,(210mm) has the option of more after market shells, than the medium(M 225mm ) and the Long(L 240mm). Some say the MO3L is more stable, less twitchy to drive than the short, but this comes back to car setup.
At the end of the day,the choice is yours. The M or L would be the pick.
Regards,
Calvin
The MO3R can be assembled as any of the wheel bases, due to the inclusion of the M and L extensions. The MO3R comes with all of the hopups, except for a ball diff and the shocks are brittle. If you have the money, these are great kits, however the standard kit with the ball diff and super mini CVA's are just as good.
The short wheel base,(210mm) has the option of more after market shells, than the medium(M 225mm ) and the Long(L 240mm). Some say the MO3L is more stable, less twitchy to drive than the short, but this comes back to car setup.
At the end of the day,the choice is yours. The M or L would be the pick.
Regards,
Calvin
Last edited by caltek1; 12-21-2008 at 03:10 PM. Reason: poor grammer