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Old 10-12-2008, 07:27 PM   #7456
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tony gray - Great paint job! I think the head lights are very cool.
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Old 10-13-2008, 12:45 AM   #7457
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If you saw the owners eyes you'd know where they'd been copied from...
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Old 10-13-2008, 12:52 AM   #7458
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If you saw the owners eyes you'd know where they'd been copied from...
Thats the nicest compliment you have given me
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Old 10-13-2008, 01:13 AM   #7459
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Thats the nicest compliment you have given me


that bboy looks so cool and the eyes are the icing on the cake
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Old 10-13-2008, 06:50 PM   #7460
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Here is the link I mentioned I would try and find earlier to some more Mini sized Kits, Bodies, Wheels/Tires, & Parts...This is where you can find the old VW MK1 GTI body, not to mention a new Datsun 240Z...

http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...ndex&cPath=108
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Old 10-13-2008, 11:30 PM   #7461
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hello everyone i have a BMW M Roadster - M04L body.

also i have two m03 chassis. with everything to make two cars.

what do i need to do to make this body the same lenth? also what other things need to be done


ive seen this on rc mini but i cant find it anymore.....

help? lol
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:34 AM   #7462
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I'd help you out but I cant actually work out what you're trying to do?
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Old 10-14-2008, 01:02 AM   #7463
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I'd help you out but I cant actually work out what you're trying to do?
Sounds like he wants the RWD Conversion

http://www.rc-mini.net/MiniWeb_Online/M03_RWD.html
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Old 10-14-2008, 01:06 AM   #7464
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I think he wants to make a M03 the same length as a M04L to fit his M04L body.
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Old 10-14-2008, 01:28 AM   #7465
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Or maybe the SWB to MWB conversion? (Works for MWB to LWB too)

It's here
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Old 10-14-2008, 01:54 AM   #7466
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Hey, what's up everyone.

Well i was trying to say what are the extra parts needed.

But now i know i need new body post also LONGER REAR SHOCKS AND SHORT FROM SHOCKS =(

Also i have 3racing aluminum a-arms and on rc mini its showing you need to put the front ball joints in the C-hub lower hole??

I can't do this with full aluminum parts =(


Also even if i manage to pull it all my front wheels will simply rub the shocks. I broke down a m03r to build this. Now i think I'm going back to FF. I could post pix in the morning if it will help some. Damn.
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Old 10-14-2008, 02:16 AM   #7467
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I'm going to try to make some type of front torsion bar.


It would be shockless in the front. Hope it doesn't handle like my brothers old plymouth cuda.
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Old 10-14-2008, 01:27 PM   #7468
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OK guys it's time to 'stir the pot' a little on another subject.

Down here in Aus we DON'T have TCS any more, so our Mini rules are slightly different. Although not hugely so.
Unlike what a lot of you guys do, we run Sport-Tuned motors. Well, as you've seen on our site, we're always on the look out for something new, and the Hobbywing brushless system we tested a little while back showed great promise.

And now it looks like being adopted by most of the States in Australia as the default Mini motor. Here's what I posted on the Aus Mini thread in rctech.




Well I suppose it's about time I stuck in our 2 cents worth...

I can tell you all now, we've now done months of testing on these systems, both the 3000 and 3300. We've been going since mid-year, trying to get the best possible handle on how they compare to Sport-Tuneds.

To be honest, we eliminated the 3300 the first day. It was obviously a lot quicker. On our data, around a second a lap easily. So that was out straight away. We then concentrated on the 3000 (13T)

Drivers used were Tony Parreiro, Tony Gray (me) and Tim Keiller. We used ourselves simply because we knew that all of us were capable of turning lap after lap of good consistent times. For those of you familiar with Alycat timing, that means consistency readings in the area of around .2 most runs. In the absence of a driving 'machine' thats the best we could come up with for consistent, repeatable laps.

So...here's a sample of the figures, recorded at the Keilor track. Our names are mentioned, but I've left the others anonymous given that I havent asked their permission.

Jun 15 - fastest laps
Driver A 24.375 - S/Tuned
Tim 24.438 - S/Tuned
Tony G 24.753 - S/Tuned
Driver B 24.937 - S/Tuned

Jul 6 - fastest laps
Tony P 24.01 - H/W 3000
Tim 24.125 - S/Tuned
Tony G 24.75 - S/Tuned
Driver B 24.813 - S/Tuned

Sep 21 - fastest laps
Tony P 24.00 - H/W 3000
Tony G 24.70 - H/W 3000
Driver C 25.7 - S/Tuned

Bottom line - WE are going virtually EXACTLY the same speed still... My personal lap times are within a few tenths. And Tony P is always just that HINT quicker than everyone - which is fair enough, he's on form this year, the current Vic champion.

The telling thing for us was both Driver A and Tim in the low 24's - with Sport-Tuneds, essentially the same as what we were getting with the Hobbywings.

Basically, there is NO more difference between a HW 3000 and a Sport-Tuned than what there is between any 10 random picked Sport-Tuneds...and thats what I think is the critical factor.

Yes, the Hobbywing motors are different. What is different is the way that they make and deliver their power. They reach their top speed quicker. They SEEM to launch out of the corners quicker, although we suspect thats more a factor of the slightly different setup we all use.
But what matters is the data, and the lap times don't lie. At the end of each lap, the times are virtually the same.

Since having the Hobbywings what's become REALLY obvious to us is the consistency of these motors. They are virtually IDENTICAL, one to the next.
And...the whole system costs a little over $100 Aus. Thats about the price of 3 sport-tuneds (and I'd go through a LOT more than that in a year) AND you get an ESC included! I looked at most of the cars at the track, and most of the guys had laid out over $200 just for their ESC...

As for scrutineering, this is how the motors will be coming in the future.(This is a 10 turn pictured, not the 3000kv/13 turn) The end of the can will be etched with the number of turns, so a quick glance will tell you what motor it is. I might add, this is a DIRECT RESULT of us pushing Hobbywing to do so too!



I can understand why some people are wary of these, but from where we stand, we reckon they're the best thing to happen to Mini in years, and we're 100% behind them.
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Old 10-14-2008, 01:54 PM   #7469
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G'day Tony,

I fully support the idea of running the BL system in Mini here in Aus. I know that it provides equality in motor speeds.

I have experimented with the Exige system, 17.5 sensored and 13.5 both sensored and sensorless in Mini and they are all not as smooth as the Hobbywing product.

The 17.5 is slow, perhaps slower than running a silver can. The 13.5 chews up the tyres and does not accelerate quick enough on a tight track and the exige is similar to the sport tuned, however the speed controller version one is crap.

So I like the idea of the Hobbywing 3000, being adopted as the new sport tuned motor. Plus I like the fact it is cheaper than buying a heap of motors just to get a couple of decent ones. The other telling factor with the BL system is over a five minute run the battery is only having using about 1300 to 1400 milli amps. so two runs could be done on one battery.

A Lipo powered car and a NiMH car have the same top end when using the BL system.

The sooner we adopt the BL system, the sooner we will have motor parity on the track, then it will come down to driver input and car setup.

My two pennies worth,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 10-15-2008 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:37 PM   #7470
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[QUOTE=tony gray;4937885]

QUOTE]

That motor looks familiar....oh yes its in the back of my truck
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