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Old 09-24-2008, 05:37 PM   #7291
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Last edited by Ashley Cobb; 10-06-2008 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 09-24-2008, 05:39 PM   #7292
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The front tires wearing out in 1 hr is just ridiculous. That's what I experience as well. That's the most not fun part about the M - chassis.
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Old 09-24-2008, 05:53 PM   #7293
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Originally Posted by LATC3 View Post
I bought my 3racing ball diff on ebay for $9. its fully adjustible and i think it spools up quicker then the ta03 diff. And i own two ta03 cars and four ta03 ball diffs, i think there's a huge difference.

Also tony my problem was half stearing alignment but still has a unstable feel to it.
We've seen/tried about 3 or 4 - 3 Racing Ball diffs. Not one of them could we tighten enough to work without slipping hugely... Maybe 1 in 500 actually does work..

Dude, you're running X patterns, right? Try something else... Some X patterns do exactly what you're describing... Instability and spinning around in turns..
The quality of them is very inconsistent.
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Old 09-24-2008, 06:01 PM   #7294
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
LATC3: Here are a couple of items that you may find helpful, all lovingly typed out using proper grammar. (sort of)

These are general rules that I found can make a car a bit easier to drive, on most surfaces.

Tires: The rule of thumb is to have a little more grip on the front tires than the rears. I usually run type A slicks up front, and s grip radials at the rear. Another rule (that I don't really follow) is to have the tire inserts harder up front than in the rear tires. I have found that I can run hard inserts at all 4 corners without any problems. The difference in grip between front and rear is more critical.

Toe: Most will suggest having a very slight toe out in the front, with a little toe in at the rear, about 1.5 degrees is usual. I run almost neutral toe at the front wheels, and 1.5 in at the rear. I've found that too much toe out at the front wheels can make the car twitchy. The grippier tires up front will compensate for the lack of toe on turn in. The added bonus is that you get a little less drag having your front wheels straight.

Dampers: There are loads of opinions on what works and what makes a difference. The general school of thought is harder springs up front, with softer springs at the rear. Shock oil isn't terribly critical, but it can make a subtle difference in the way the car handles, especially at turn in. Again, stiffer at the front, softer at the rear.

Limiting travel in the dampers is probably more important than what weight of oil you use, however. A couple of O-rings inside, under the piston, and one outside, on the shock shaft can help a lot. The O-rings inside limit droop, and the O-ring outside, if your car is setup in typical fashion, will be just enough to keep your car from bottoming out. Hitting bottom on your chassis is an absolute no-no. If you bottom out, you lose traction and control.

In any case, these are things that I've found that have helped me. They may not be right, and I can't guarantee any of it will work for you. I know guys running totally stock minis that kick my butt on a weekly basis. Some of those guys are even running the stock kit tires. (show-offy bastards!) I suppose then that these tips just make the car a little easier to drive if you're as lame as I am at RC driving.

Jim


Very interesting thanks for the info.

i use a little toe in.

If you have a little toe in under torque the front will lift so it will level to zero toe in.

If you have zero toe in at a stop, under torque it will go into a little toe out under power. So that will add drag... correct me if I'm wronge
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Old 09-24-2008, 06:09 PM   #7295
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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
We've seen/tried about 3 or 4 - 3 Racing Ball diffs. Not one of them could we tighten enough to work without slipping hugely... Maybe 1 in 500 actually does work..

Dude, you're running X patterns, right? Try something else... Some X patterns do exactly what you're describing... Instability and spinning around in turns..
The quality of them is very inconsistent.
You think?

If its not to much trouble can you post a link where i could get some good tires for my mini... maybe ebay? Or an online store? Something in the states also! Lol


But yeah? You can't get the 3racing diff to work? I guess i got one of the good ones. It works very good.

Does a solid front diff work good?
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Old 09-24-2008, 06:25 PM   #7296
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I will most likely get flamed for this as i have before, but I fill the tamiya servo saver full of CA glue. I had trouble getting the car to track straight, even with an expensive servo. It helped a great deal with the problem, and the alloy servo mounts completely fixed it.
Hmm, looks like the alloy servo mounts are quite necessary then?
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Old 09-24-2008, 06:40 PM   #7297
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Last edited by Ashley Cobb; 10-06-2008 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 09-24-2008, 07:15 PM   #7298
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Lightbulb Setup Sheet

I don't know how many people reads the WHOLE thread so that they accidentally find my Setup Sheet, it's just I need to get it back to life

Hope u like it....................
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Hoja_Setup M03 - Sebastian Oviedo S..pdf (471.7 KB, 487 views)
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Old 09-24-2008, 07:16 PM   #7299
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xrayroooahhhh - 3Racing makes one also.
...but they're illegal in most clubs...and they're not really worth it. Don't get me wrong, I love 3Racing product, just not this product.

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Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb View Post
...I fill the tamiya servo saver full of CA glue.
Or, you could buy the Kimbrough, and still have your servo protected in a crash?

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Originally Posted by edhchoe View Post
The front tires wearing out in 1 hr is just ridiculous.
This is true. I've run old beaters tires outdoors on crap asphalt, and I'm thinking they'll be good to go for some racing again this Sunday. I'm telling you, flaming sandpaper is not a good racing surface.

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Originally Posted by LATC3 View Post
Very interesting thanks for the info.

under torque it will go into a little toe out under power.
Very glad to help. I had a lot of problems with the car getting weird, too.

Actually, under power, it will toe in. (wheels pulling forward against a fulcrum...yada yada yada...) Unless, of course, there is some suspension action I'm not taking into account.
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Old 09-24-2008, 07:20 PM   #7300
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I don't know how many people reads the WHOLE thread so that they accidentally find my Setup Sheet, it's just I need to get it back to life

Hope u like it....................
Nice!

I thought the stabilizer bar comes only in 2 hardness?
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Old 09-24-2008, 09:50 PM   #7301
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Thanks everyone for the info on the ball diff......Jim...I'll have one for next time we race....not this Sunday.....way too busy!!!!

Roy
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Old 09-24-2008, 10:59 PM   #7302
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Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb View Post
I will most likely get flamed for this as i have before, but I fill the tamiya servo saver full of CA glue. I had trouble getting the car to track straight, even with an expensive servo. It helped a great deal with the problem, and the alloy servo mounts completely fixed it.
I've done this once with a very stronge servo and when i hit the rail my rim broke at the spokes.... i couldn't stop laughing.
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:21 PM   #7303
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Actually, under power, it will toe in. (wheels pulling forward against a fulcrum...yada yada yada...) Unless, of course, there is some suspension action I'm not taking into account.
That's true i forgot to mention that. People who like some front end droop will have to toe in.

People using the o-ring methed with no droop should set it to zero. There will be no lifting so it wouldn't toe out...

I like droop in the front with a little toe in... maybe limiting droop will solve my spin out problem?...

I never thought about it!
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Old 09-24-2008, 11:30 PM   #7304
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Last edited by Ashley Cobb; 10-06-2008 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 09-25-2008, 04:26 AM   #7305
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I saw one guy do that but not from glueing his servo saver but for putting a 3.5 in a mini and in to a steel barrier...it was so funny, a front wheel drive wheelie, tires lasted half a lap before literaly exploding also looked like a nitro with the smoke
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