MD

iTrader: (136)

Does anyone know the the stock number for the red dot motor that comes with the M04M Swift? It's a red dot motor and has a dull finish. The number in the manual is for a typical Johnson motor. Is it a Mabushi or Johnson? Thanks. if this has been discussed previously I apologize.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Good review on the Hobbywing speedo Tony, but one thing... it looks like an O.E.M of the SP Exige 2.0.. or the exige is the OEM of the hobbywing... either way, two options

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-bru...cPath=293_1021

Regards
Ed

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

Like it says in the story Ed, Hobbywing are the OEM manufacturers...

SP and 3 or 4 others just stick their own name on the same system.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

FOXY923 rcmarek,

As FOXY923 has stated it is against the rules at major events. Not sure if SMA will let you run other Mini bodies, however most state that it has to be a body that is supplied with the kit.

I know we are bound by these rules at Windsor and Penrith.

There are two types of red dot motors. There are the Tamiya red dot motors and the red dot motors that are sold by RCCARDR. The red dots from Tamiya have different brushes to the white dot motors. You will need to read the silver can motor thread to find the difinitive answer.

The red dots from RCCARDR have been run in and the motor to have for TCS events in the States. I would not say they are cheater motors, they have had the brushes and bushes run in so that they give max horsepower when fitted.

Most peolple I know run there silver or sport tuned motors in prior to using them. Nothing to do with tweaking the comm etc. That is when you over step the boundaries.

Anyhow my two pennies worth.

CYA

Calvin

rcmarek

Thanks Calvin, didn't realise (again) that the other cars are rear wheel drive. Back in Europe at my local track where I went occasionally as a spectator they used to race all the M chassis cars together, I always forget that here it's just the front wheel drives.

Drifting101

iTrader: (8)

I am having a problem.............to much grip and i tractaion roll HUGLEY and i mean in a corner it go about 1 metre airborn (the crowd seems to love it but i dont), the only way to get it to stop was by putting 60Ds then i had no turn in

Set up:
Track: TFTR, melbourne australia (High traction, smooth)
Tires, Medium spice front and soft spice rear
1 degree toe out
blue srings front and yellow rear (TRFs)
arms level
3200 lipo (orion)
weight rtr: 1389 grams and the weight is placed on the battery and in th chassis part recomended in the article.....also balanced 60 percent of the weight in the front and 40 percent rear
black can



What can i do to help??

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Remove the toe out .. not needed with the Spice tyres. Are you running the same compound front and rear? You say medium and soft? Is that the inserts? Normally you would run one rating higher on the tyre in the front

EG Spice 36 front with Spice 32 rear. Use same insert all the way around.

Also turn down the steering response rate so the Mini is not twichy around neutral steering

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

From Speedway Pal a new bodyshell that I suppose someone wants? And some more new tires too...

Click here to check em out.

Ashley Cobb

iTrader: (28)

OH MY GOD THAT SHELL IS SO COOL!

Granpa

I don't know about removing the toe out. The toe out is to make the car run straight. Most Minis have slop in the steering and suspension so that attempting to run zero zero will give you a car that's undriveable down the straight. Also the twitching in the steering comes from the inherent slop in the steering, so running negative exponential on the steering won't help much.

I may be misunderstanding here, but are you saying that you can run zero zero only with the Spice tires. If so, would you explain how that works? It would be an advantage to straight line speed if you could remove the toe out

Granpa

The only way to correct a traction roll problem as huge as yours is to change the type of tires. I have a ? tho, did you put the 60d slicks all around or just on the fronts? Were they the 60ds made in Japan or Thailand? Look the same, but there is a HUGE difference.

There are a # of other things you can try. Have you tried sway bars? You might try running a different combination of shock oils and springs. Stuff everything you can inside the chassis or side saddle down low. But the best suggestion I have for you is to go around your local track and find out what the "fast" guys are doing. Most people will give you a help and most advice from people not familiar with your track surface has to very general.

I run at 4 different racing venues and each requires different tires and set ups. Track #1 ride 3030 rears, 3023 fronts front shocks 30wt oil and red springs rear shocks 90wt oil white springs. Track #2 Cut down Sorex 36 TC tires with spice inserts. front shocks 6owt oil and blue springs rearshocks 40wt oil and yellow or red springs. You get the idea.

My best advice is to ask the locals. They know the track and you do have some "hot" Mini guys in your area.

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

Listen to Granpa.

Also try lower ride height- that's a biggie. You don't say what inserts you are using, but we generally have soft (foam only), medium (molded insert only or two layers of foam) and hard (molded insert plus foam layer) to try at each end- they make a big difference, too. I'd also try lots more droop at both ends, especially with the lowered ride height. 4mm front and 5-6mm rear would be a good place to start.

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

Does anyone know if there would be an appreciable difference in speed between using a 3200 20C lipo vs. a 2400 20C lipo given the same overall weight and same silver can motor?

Granpa

Spec wise there should be a slight advantage to the 3200. However, only the really "fast" drivers are good enough to notice the difference. I'll bet even for them there wouldn't be more than a 2 or 3 tenths difference in lap times.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Maybe I should learn to read better... my excuse is that I was tired