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Old 03-29-2008, 02:30 AM   #6466
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Tryhard,

Good to see another person running this system.

The Exige system is harder on the universals and diff cups than the mini gears. I have been running the system for approx four months and I am still using the same MO3 gears.

The BL motor has more torque and harder acceleration so the universals and diff cups take a flogging. My CVD's are in need of replacing, due to the elongation of the holes. These have worn out quicker than when using the Tamiya sports tuned motor.

Later

Calvin.
I've been running a 27t in the mini before anyway (not sure how that compares to sport tuned though), and already have the hardend outdrive cups, and the universals. Should be all set.

If a mini had more gearing options, I would expect the b/l system to be faster, as it is, I don't I'll see much difference before, just plug in a 20t pinion and away we go

Cheers
Ed
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Old 03-29-2008, 05:32 AM   #6467
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eric7,

The 60D's Type A's are the reinforced tyres PNo 53340 that are used for racing on asphalt.

Tamiya don't do a one degree rear hub, they do a 1.5 degree available on the MO3R PNo 49442 Rear aluminium uprights. 3 racing do the one degree rear toe hubs, PNo M03M-12/1/LB.

Here is a link to there website. http://www.3racing.com.hk

CYA

Calvin
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Old 03-29-2008, 06:42 AM   #6468
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Thanks for all the help Calvin! I was wondering how the quality of the 3Racing parts were? I've seen quite a few on eBay. They seem to be priced right.
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Old 03-29-2008, 12:16 PM   #6469
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Had some fun this weekend with my cousin, but it was short lived after a few problems. He ponked a curb way too hard and didn't realize it until it was too late. The right front end was trashed as if it was run over by a freight train. His whole wheel ripped off from the hub, and the top shock mount and steering ball stud broke. My setscrew on the pinion gear kept slipping, as I still need to get some loctite. I pulled a stupid move and tried superglue, and now the whole gear is useless b/c the setscrew is stripped and it loosened up. Oh well . . .

Anyways here's some before and after pics of the cars we raced last night.
Enjoy!

*edit - sorry, every time I try and upload a 50kb jpg, it says it fails! I must need to be someone important to U/L . . . . oh well.
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Old 03-29-2008, 05:50 PM   #6470
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I have a stock M03-M. I'm going to order some oil shocks and set them up to lower the ride height a little.

I was pushing the chassis down by hand to try and simulate what the new height would look like and I noticed 2 things. #1 it changed the toe setting, and #2 it changed the camber setting. I assume this is common knowledge? Now, I assume I just need to get adjustable tie rods to fix the toe back to where it was, but what are you guys doing about the way it changes the camber? I didn't think you could get adjustable camber rods for the front of this chassis???

thanks,
eric
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Old 03-29-2008, 07:47 PM   #6471
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eric7,

#1 Readjust the toe angle when you fit the oil shocks.

#2 The camber angle will cause more tyre wear on the inner edge of the tyre. This is unavoidable, but one of the limitations with the fixed top c hub arms.

3 racing do a make an adjustable arm set, however these are illegal to use in Mini racing. They would be suitable for carpark bashing though.

To get longer tyre life from the Type A 60D's then double stuff them with a Sorex A or C firm and then put in the black Tamiya foam. This takes a little fiddling to get the tyre to sit properly on the rim, however can be done. Tyres stuffed this way last longer, however they will still wear out on the inner edge.

There is a good article on this in Tony Gray's mini web site.

http://www.rc-mini.net

This is a great site has a wealth of mini information. I thoroughly recommend it and give it four and half out of five stars.

Later

Calvin.
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Old 03-29-2008, 08:25 PM   #6472
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Thanks Calvin, I will look into the 3racing adjustable camber link set since I won't be racing other than with a buddy or 2.

Right now I just have the kit tires. I have one run on them that was around 25 minutes. By the look of the wear, I'd say 2-4 more runs of that length and my tread will be a thing of the past. I assume I can still get a few runs out of them once they become slicks, especially if I soften them up with some simple green or wd-40. I use to have a tamiya buggy that I ran on pavement alot. It had pretty hard tires, much like the M03-M kit tires. Once the spikes wore off and the tires became slicks I would rub them down with WD-40 and then let it sit a minute or two and wipe them off. It softened the rubber signifigantly and didn't make them slick, actually made them more grippy. It did come at the price of making them wear faster though. we use to do that with foam tires on pan cars back in the day. Right now, between the tire shortage and the ones like the x-patterns that have been discontinued, I was hoping the kit tires might work for my usage if I can get enough life out of them. They work where I run and with the kit motor. I'm sure if I bolted in a hotter motor they would be useless. I'm kinda taking a wait and see approach on the tires I guess.
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Old 03-29-2008, 08:38 PM   #6473
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Calvin, if this is the item you are referring to, yes this looks like exactly what I need! Thanks!

http://www.3racing.com.hk/images/M03M-04.jpg


I'm hoping I will be able to lower it. The parking lot I use is decent, but not as smooth and clean as one that is prepped to race on. From reading Tony's wonderful site it sounds like lowering the car and getting the weight as low as you can is key to getting them to handle.
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:23 AM   #6474
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Latest update - Well almost.

Announcing the arrival (soon) of the DEFINITIVE guide to making your mini fast..

This guide will stun people with its simplicity but is guaranteed to have everyone talking. Written by a 6 time multi-title winner this is a MUST read.

Online 01/04/08, only 2 days to wait. You cant build a new car without reading this first.

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Old 03-30-2008, 01:35 AM   #6475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Latest update - Well almost.

Announcing the arrival (soon) of the DEFINITIVE guide to making your mini fast..

This guide will stun people with its simplicity but is guaranteed to have everyone talking. Written by a 6 time multi-title winner this is a MUST read.

Online 01/04/08, only 2 days to wait. You cant build a new car without reading this first.
Has Aaron DeFina had any input into this?.....if so it'd definitely make 4 some interesting reading ! ;0)

Boronia Wed. nite Tony??
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Old 03-30-2008, 01:40 AM   #6476
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Defina is involved...sort of...

Wed nite Lue? I'll see... I might sleaze on over....
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Old 03-30-2008, 03:09 AM   #6477
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Talking TEASER

G'day Tony,

Thanks for the TeaserI'm all ears and eyes.

Will drop a line.

CYA

Calvin
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Old 03-30-2008, 07:10 AM   #6478
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The 3Racing titanium turnbuckle kit is okay. I've got that too, but now I put my stock front upper arms back on. For me, in two minor crashes, the ball link popped off the turnbuckle and not the ball stud.

IMHO 3Racing should include more hardware; there's no ball studs for the steering knuckles or servo saver screws in this kit.
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:09 AM   #6479
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Some guys were complaining of worn CVD's, "elongated holes" try these titanium axles by Tamiya part#53681

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53681
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Old 03-30-2008, 09:11 AM   #6480
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Just finished U/Ling a video of my M0-3L, in case anyone's curious as to what an LRP V10 Spec 14T dbl can do.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Isw2oj8s1Q0
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